|03-08-2010 02:23 PM|
Dakota Digital (among others) sells a pass-through VSS that will still allow the use of a mechanical speedo cable.
What happened to the 4L60e?
|03-07-2010 10:27 PM|
|mudworm||thanks and do you know if the computer needs the speed sensor?|
|03-07-2010 10:20 PM|
You'll also need a flexplate spacer and matching (longer) bolts to mate with the older torque converter.
The spacer and bolts are available from GM for around $50.
|03-07-2010 10:17 PM|
|mudworm||will a 2002 motor bolt up to a 1980 trany?|
|03-04-2010 09:24 PM|
what gages did you use in your dash?
|08-01-2008 09:28 AM|
I am in the process of doing the same swap into my '69 C10.
I was wondering if you knew how much the 5.3 weighed just itself without the tranny?
|05-26-2008 05:50 PM|
|mudbog42||Those are actually both in work. I'm still deciding on a good spot where I could put the filter and then I need to make shroud|
|05-26-2008 04:20 PM|
Congratulations on your swap, well done
Couple of things I see in your video that I will comment on though. The position of your filter means that the motor will be taking in air that has been through the radiator....read HOT. It has been proven that for each 10 degree drop in intake air temperature, power goes up 1 percent. Therefore, if you are taking in 200 degree air now and move the filter to the outside of the car to take in ambient air at say....100 degrees, you will have a 100 degree drop in temp and therefore should theoretically pick up 10 percent power due to the denser air (more oxygen in the available air). Of course this assumes a little more fuel to keep the air/fuel ratio where it needs to be. I don't know a lot about EFI systems, but I would think the computer would adjust for more fuel when it sees denser (cooler) air.
Other thing is, I would fashion a shroud for the fan.
|05-26-2008 12:58 PM|
Alright all, here it is....
Here's the first vid, also took her out for a test drive and she drives great
and she'll lay the rubber down too Still got to clean the wiring up some to make it look better and fix a broken header bolt, but there it is
|05-23-2008 07:22 PM|
Alright well I guess the vids I promised are on hold....
I pulled the headers off and am going to tow the car down to the exhaust shop to get the header work done right, so I guess you could say they are now going to turn into custom headers...
|05-22-2008 12:43 PM|
One more problem also before driving
Can't turn left
This is as far left as I can go:
Open to any and all opinions on how to make this work. I did run headers when I had the old SB 350 so there must be a way to make them work
|05-22-2008 09:51 AM|
It Runs!!!!it Runs!!!!
Yeah, it was definitely those injectors, put those new/used ones I got and she fired right up
Oh yeah and vids will be posted either this evening or tomorrow morning, depending how work treats me tonight.
And she runs, now to fix the header leaks, so far thats all that seems to be leaking
|05-22-2008 12:10 AM|
|mudbog42||Fuel injectors arrived today!!!|
|05-19-2008 09:45 AM|
Alright new injectors on the way
Alright I just bought some injectors and they shipped this morning, so hopefully they will work.
I think mine are just too gunked up from sitting. I got one to free up and start clicking but then it got stuck open and wouldn't stop leaking fuel, so probably flooded that cylinder out now, I had to relieve pressure in the rails to get it to stop.
So now I will just put these new or newer ones on and see what happens
|05-16-2008 11:48 AM|
Alright, just replaced the regulator and now fuel pressure is at 58PSI while priming and while cranking, which is where I read it should be, but the injectors still are not firing.
Also I hooked a mulitmeter up to one of the injectors and they are getting 12v, don't know about pulses yet though, since I have no one to turn the key while I watch the meter
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|