|08-12-2008 07:24 AM|
Thoughts that came to my mind on this were:
Waterpump rotation? Is the pully set up different than stock? Water pump maybe a reverse rotation version? Cooling system bleed to remove air?
I am running a SBC in a 54 Chevy truck with a 3 row desert cooler radiator on which I have installed a Ford Taurus 2 speed shrouded e-fan that is controlled by a Derale adjustable temp controller with integrated relay and fuse. I do not have AC on the truck yet but this set up keeps the temp at 180 in Houston traffic. The high speed on the fan will be wired to the AC compressor. Hope you solve the problem.
|07-18-2008 11:01 AM|
My car was doing a similar thing after i changed the motor (SBC .030 over) out to a freshly rebuilt one that was nearly identical to the one i took out. It ended up being that my air/fuel mix screws wern't backed out enough making the car run lean when driving. At idle in the driveway it would run 180-185 all day long with the fan cycling, take it out on the road and just drive it, not getting on it really and it would be up to around 220. I backed the screws out another half turn and it seems to run good around 190-195 now.
|07-09-2008 07:30 AM|
Bruce, I'm having the same problem with my mustang I just put on the road after a 2 year build.
I just intently read every reply to this post and got a lot of good ideas.
I'm seriously thinking I have a sludged up block, even though it's been flushed mutilple times till it ran clear. I just put a new 3 core radiator in last night and it still gets hot on the highway. This morning I popped the radiator cap and and I can see a very fine silt sitting inside the new radiator.
Don't want to highjack this thread, but I think that's next place I'm going to look. I'm going to try to pull any drain plugs and see if I can flush the block.
|07-08-2008 06:34 PM|
|Kevin45||I'm surprised no one has asked about the fans thermostats. Do they come on at a certain temperature or do they run constantly. If thermostatically controlled, does the car start to overheat by the time they kick on. Next...has the water pump been replaced. If so, where did you get it and are you sure it is the CORRECT one? It could be the fact that if the water pump was changed, you have one for a serpentine system when you should have one for a belt system. A serpentine pump will pump the water backwards causing an overheating problem. Also are the electric fans correct. By that I mean, are they a pull fan or actually a push fan? Lastly, before getting rid of the bike (if you don't want to get rid of it) ask around for a standard clutch fan and a shroud even if just to try. I got rid of a good fan not to long ago. If I still had it, you would have been more than welcome to it. You should be able to get one for next to nothing.|
|07-08-2008 12:53 PM|
Ok I have had problems with motors WITHOUT a thermostat in them (must install a restrictor) because it lets the coolant flow to fast thru the rad and not dissipate its heat into the air.
Without a thermostat the motor will take a long time to come up to temperature.
Why do you not use a thermostat ?
|07-08-2008 08:54 AM|
Heat dissipation from hot metal to water happens fast. (dunking a hot item into water)
however dissipating heat from water to metal (without any evaporation) is not nearly as fast....even then the heat has to be passed from the metal into the air.
So I said all that to say all this --
Installing a different temp thermostat will NOT keep the water in the rad longer. The two thermostats have the same sized opening in them, thus after the motor hits the correct temp where the thermostat opens the water will not flow thru either any faster.
|07-08-2008 08:26 AM|
I might add,
A closed thermostat gets the engine up to operating temperature quicker than an engine without a thermostat which would be circulating the water continuously.
Thermostats control the MINIMUM operating temperature of the system.
The most valuable tool for cooling system diagnosis is an infared thermometer. Make sure you have at least a 25* drop from inlet to outlet of the radiator in every condition.
And if I might comment about the original statement of keeping the coolant in the radiator longer to let it cool more.......
If that were logical, then why would we turn the water pump faster as the rpm increased? Wouldn't we want to keep it slow to cool better?
|07-07-2008 11:57 PM|
"rather than the 160 because the higher 180+ will keep the coolant in the radiator allowing it to cool down more"
I´ve never got on well with statements like that about the cooling system.
If the cooling system is a closed circuit staying in the rad longer will also mean it stays in the motor longer, absorbing more heat.
Surely the speed of the coolant flow is determined by the water pump, to speed up or slow down the coolant you´d have to swap pump pullies.
The thermostat controls the opening of the cooling circuit allowing coolant to flow solely for the reason of getting the motor to operating temperatures quicker.
It then opens and closes as needed to keep the motor in the heat range chosen.
|07-07-2008 04:55 PM|
Sat here and read all the posts and absorbed them for their value.
In my opinion, I would say that you have a cracked head on this engine more so, than a blown gasket. The other possibility is, are you sure that the thermostat is installed correctly and opening properly. I would suggest installing a stainless steel "NO FAIL" thermostat, instead of the run-of-the-mill brass type.
I would run with a 180 or 192 thermostat, rather than the 160 because the higher 180+ will keep the coolant in the radiator allowing it to cool down more.
Have you checked out http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...cooling_system
|07-03-2008 08:37 PM|
From post # 1,,,,,, guess you did.
BUT, she has a cooling problem from Aitch Eee Double Hockey Sticks I can't figure out or fix. For 2 years, the idiot light came on intermittently, but could find no trouble. Added an Auto Meter gauge with probe inserted in lower center of radiator, but this showed actual NUMBERS that freaked me out...well over 290 degrees, w/o the A/C on! quote
|07-03-2008 08:35 PM|
Hey all you guys, we're not pissin, we're discussin and trying to learn a new angle on things that maybe we haven't ever seen before.
And maybe I'll find out that I have been wrong about somethin.
Thanks for all the input. Cooling is my second favorite subject (for hot rods that is).
|07-03-2008 08:34 PM|
Who said anything about 290? I said 220, and the gauge only goes to 260...
|07-03-2008 03:13 PM|
I didn't want to get into any head butting either. That's why I didn't say any more on that particular subject. I will tell you that without pressure, you will not have cooling. Looking at it from any perspective, that is what it boils down to. (hehe now THAT'S a pun!)
Whatever the source, when the problem is uncovered, it will be screaming "Why didn't you see this sooner!" At least that's how it is here.
|07-03-2008 03:04 PM|
|07-03-2008 11:06 AM|
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