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SBC Cooling Saga...can anyone offer a good suggestion I haven't tried yet?

9K views 91 replies 24 participants last post by  Houston54 
#1 ·
Hello, all!

I notice overheating is a hot topic (bad pun) here, but I wanted to dive in with my woes and see if anyone can figure out what I haven't yet. The history:

1968 Impala Custom, 275/327, TH400, dual exhaust with 'h' pipe. New suspension, engine still stock save for water pump and t'stat. Still gets 15 mpg +/= city, so she's still doing ok there.

BUT, she has a cooling problem from Aitch Eee Double Hockey Sticks I can't figure out or fix. For 2 years, the idiot light came on intermittently, but could find no trouble. Added an Auto Meter gauge with probe inserted in lower center of radiator, but this showed actual NUMBERS that freaked me out...well over 290 degrees, w/o the A/C on!

SO, I did the following, in order (rather, my Goodyear guy did it):
1. Back flushed the coolant;
2. Put in a (tested first) 180 deg. thermostat;
3. Added an Impala Bob's 4-core Desert Cooler radiator, along with auxiliary external coolers for the engine oil and trans fluid;
4. Put dual 16" electric fans on said radiator, mounted 1/8" from the core (no shroud of any kind was provided with the fans..they mount on dual rails that span the radiator left to right).

STILL had high temps as described! Now, I added:

5. 160 degree thermostat;
6. 40 GPM hi-flow water pump;
7. All new hoses inside and out;
8. New heater core (thanks to the water pump);
9. Went broke converting the A/C to the new refrigerant.

And still the problem persists. It takes the car just 15 mins or so to get up to 180 when the ambient temp is 85, but after that it just climbs to about 205-210. If I use the A/C, the temp gauge pegs out and coolant spews out the overflow!

As we all know, the cavernous interior of a '68 Full-Size Chevy takes awhile to cool, but I can't risk using it anymore. I'm fed up and broke, and the only thing I HAVEN'T replaced is the condenser, which seems fine.

What next?
What's the normal op temp for my engine anyway?
Do I need to replace the condenser with something new anyhow?
Should I try to make a shroud of my own out of rubber, etc, to cover the inboard areas of the radiator not covered by the fans?

Please help me...I hate to sound pathetic, but I can't deal with this any more, and need a positive fix!

Chuck
Norman, OK
 
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#27 ·
RE Malc's pictures post # 23.

The full shroud works for pulling air across the entire core when the fans are running, but
that shroud blocks ram air flow through the radiator at highway speeds. But that might not be a problem if the radiator is big enough.
If you have a monster radiator then it will cool with most any fan set up.

The factory fan set up pulls air without blocking the core any time.
I would find a 7 blade fan with more than 2" pitch and use a non-HD thermostatic fan clutch.

Also be sure the water pump is driven 110% for the fan to turn fast enough.

Of course do all the block flush and checking.

You might not be suprised how many people have built marginal cooling systems because they saw others that had a good looking set up. Everybody thinks that a big aluminum radiator and an electric fans are the best thing. Not always true.
 
#28 ·
Malc/ScoT

ScoTFrenzel said:
RE Malc's pictures post # 23.

The full shroud works for pulling air across the entire core when the fans are running, but
that shroud blocks ram air flow through the radiator at highway speeds. But that might not be a problem if the radiator is big enough.
If you have a monster radiator then it will cool with most any fan set up.

The factory fan set up pulls air without blocking the core any time.
I would find a 7 blade fan with more than 2" pitch and use a non-HD thermostatic fan clutch.

Also be sure the water pump is driven 110% for the fan to turn fast enough.

Of course do all the block flush and checking.

You might not be suprised how many people have built marginal cooling systems because they saw others that had a good looking set up. Everybody thinks that a big aluminum radiator and an electric fans are the best thing. Not always true.

Both arguments have their merit, and frankly having dual shrouded (properly shrouded) electrics that would stop at highway speeds might even be best; especially if they were coupled to a device like newer cars have that continues running the fans till the radiator cools down to the set point (wouldn't I love to have THAT!).

STILL, I've installed a high-flow 40GPM roller-bearing water pump, and flow is good, so that's not an issue that I can tell. The radiator is a "Desert Cooler" standard-design 4-core unit.

I guess if and when my mechanic answers my calls, we'll find out.

Chuck
 
#29 ·
Please allow me to digress to post #1 where he says that the heater core was replaced because of the water pump.

ALL heaters should be restricted to a 1/4 inch orifice in the hose or in the outlet fitting of the intake manifold. This is to prevent high water pump pressure from blowing out the heater cores. It also reduces the amount of coolant flowing through the heater in the summer, so more will be cooled by the radiator. Most every factory car had a restrictor, GMs most often in the hoses years ago, and they got thrown away with the old hoses, or someone in cold country wanted more heat in the winter and took them out. (but didn't help, did it?)

Don't use a plain hose nipple in the intake manifold unless you put a restrictor in the hose.
 
#30 ·
Nipples in the heater...

ScoTFrenzel said:
Please allow me to digress to post #1 where he says that the heater core was replaced because of the water pump.

ALL heaters should be restricted to a 1/4 inch orifice in the hose or in the outlet fitting of the intake manifold. This is to prevent high water pump pressure from blowing out the heater cores. It also reduces the amount of coolant flowing through the heater in the summer, so more will be cooled by the radiator. Most every factory car had a restrictor, GMs most often in the hoses years ago, and they got thrown away with the old hoses, or someone in cold country wanted more heat in the winter and took them out. (but didn't help, did it?)

Don't use a plain hose nipple in the intake manifold unless you put a restrictor in the hose.

Thx, ScotT...I've actually taken great pains to use the factory pieces wherever applicable, including the reduction fitting. . . the heater core just began leaking at some old joints after putting in the new pump...heck, it was 38 years old, too, so it was overdue! Most of my car was/is original, save the Pertronix electronic conversion module for the ignition, which the original owner put in before I bought it. Everything I've put in has either been NOS, GM/Delco reman or otherwise verified for the application; I've taken pains to leave nothing out, save the module for the alternator conversion when I upgraded to a 140A unit from the stocker when it crapped out.

Reader's Digest version: I don't want to take any chances, so I don't use anything not explicitly made for/rated for my ride.

That having been said, I can't find an aluminum shroud for my twin 15" Derale fans...Derale doesn't sell the shrouds separately (Great! NOT!!!), so I'm open to any shroud that will do the job right, w/o looking 'cobbled together.'

Chuck
 
#31 ·
ScoTFrenzel said:
RE Malc's pictures post # 23.

The full shroud works for pulling air across the entire core when the fans are running, but
that shroud blocks ram air flow through the radiator at highway speeds. But that might not be a problem if the radiator is big enough.

I have plans to install flap type doors in the lower part of the shroud, at the moment it runs at 180º-185º which is way better than the 220º it used to run and all the idle problems that came with it.
 
#32 ·
Flaps...

malc said:
I have plans to install flap type doors in the lower part of the shroud, at the moment it runs at 180º-185º which is way better than the 220º it used to run and all the idle problems that came with it.
Malc, I've heard of free-floating flaps installed on aluminum shrouds that will open when air is moving through the radiator at highway speeds, but will actually stick closed when the car is not moving and the fans are going. I'd like to see pics when you have done it, and hear how it goes!

Chuck
 
#33 ·
Don´t hold your breath, while it is planned I have other stuff to do,
the car is taking the back seat for awhile.
The fan shroud is now a part of the rad so I have to take both out at the same time, you´ll see there is´nt much room in there ´tween motor and fans.
This is my plan.
 
#34 ·
SBC Cooling

I know you said timing is "spot on" - but, I have found that a LOT of SBC cooling issues are timing related - static timing (at idle, Vac hose disconnected) may be "spot on", but how about the advance curve? AND - especially for a hiway cruiser - the Vac advance has to be working really well. Try disconnecting your vac advance hose at idle - if RPM drops, it is most likely working and you can disregard this message - plugging hose back in should increase RPM. If this does not happen, then you have found a part (maybe not all) of your problem.

Now disconnect the vac hose again - rev it up and see if the mech advance is working too.

SBC's are notoriously sensitive to timing and show their displeasure on the heat gauge

Is there any chance that it is running too lean? (Vac leak, etc)

Just fishing for ideas here
 
#35 ·
Hi Chuck,
I had a similar problem on my 351 Cobra after I replaced the electric motor my single blade Flex-a-lite fan. The engine got to operating temp and got hotter as I drove it. I brought it home and found that the plug on the electric motor was reversed. I took a sheet of paper and put it in front of my grill and the paper blew off. I reversed the wires and the paper stuck to the grill. My next drive the temp never went above 180. I also switched my coolant to the waterless Evans and have been pleased. Hope your problem is as simple as mine was, just check and see if your fans are ''pulling air'' through the radiator and not pushing.
Good luck,
Everett.
 
#36 ·
Lean???

Dave57210 said:
I know you said timing is "spot on" - but, I have found that a LOT of SBC cooling issues are timing related - static timing (at idle, Vac hose disconnected) may be "spot on", but how about the advance curve? AND - especially for a hiway cruiser - the Vac advance has to be working really well. Try disconnecting your vac advance hose at idle - if RPM drops, it is most likely working and you can disregard this message - plugging hose back in should increase RPM. If this does not happen, then you have found a part (maybe not all) of your problem.

Now disconnect the vac hose again - rev it up and see if the mech advance is working too.

SBC's are notoriously sensitive to timing and show their displeasure on the heat gauge

Is there any chance that it is running too lean? (Vac leak, etc)

Just fishing for ideas here

I'm actually trusting my mechanic here that he did/checked all the timing issues, frankly, apart from what I actually noticed. As to running lean, I don't smell fuel save when the choke is engaged, but there IS a slight noise from the driver's side rear of the engine (at around the exhaust manifold) that disappears after a few minutes of operation...that may be something, it may not..I dunno.

I've run an ad in the local Craigslist to find if someone will diagnose and fix the problem in return for my '89 Honda Nighthawk..I'm being flooded with emails, but I have to sort 'em out to see who may be trustworthy...

Chuck
 
#37 · (Edited)
Pushing and pulling...

Everett II said:
Hi Chuck,
I had a similar problem on my 351 Cobra after I replaced the electric motor my single blade Flex-a-lite fan. The engine got to operating temp and got hotter as I drove it. I brought it home and found that the plug on the electric motor was reversed. I took a sheet of paper and put it in front of my grill and the paper blew off. I reversed the wires and the paper stuck to the grill. My next drive the temp never went above 180. I also switched my coolant to the waterless Evans and have been pleased. Hope your problem is as simple as mine was, just check and see if your fans are ''pulling air'' through the radiator and not pushing.
Good luck,
Everett.

Thanks for the post, Everett...both fans are indeed pulling, and pulling strongly...i was most paranoid about that when I had 'em installed. What kind of coolant is that you're talking about...I've not heard of it. How well has it worked???


I've just checked online..it ain't cheap, but I may try it anyway...at $33 a gallon, uses no water, so I'd need 5 gallons AND flush all the water from my system. Given what the website says, it may just be a 'go!'

Chuck
 
#38 ·
Check your lower radiator hose and make sure it is not collapsing when you are having the heat problem. I have had that happen and it restricts the flow through the engine and back out to the top of the radiator. I did a flush and fill, new stat and cap only to find the hose collapsing. Just an idea and easy to check.
 
#39 ·
Not there, either...

48ChryslerRodder said:
Check your lower radiator hose and make sure it is not collapsing when you are having the heat problem. I have had that happen and it restricts the flow through the engine and back out to the top of the radiator. I did a flush and fill, new stat and cap only to find the hose collapsing. Just an idea and easy to check.

Yup...already checked that one. There's good circulation; both hoses (new) are full and piping hot. I make sure that every time I have the system changed / topped up that it's run cap-off for 15-20 mins to bleed the air out, too. I'm getting great circulation...it's the heat that's the issue... :smash:
 
#40 ·
cmk59 said:
1968 Impala Custom, 275/327, TH400, dual exhaust with 'h' pipe. New suspension, engine still stock save for water pump and t'stat.
Your main problem ... is ... in my opinion
THAT you have removed the original good shroud and belt driven fan.


( photo taken from the internet ... ;) )

General Motors spends tons of time and money engineering their cars to run cool ... why does people think that they can make it BETTER ??? :smash: :nono: with some aftermarket electric fans.

Install the shroud back on and the proper belt driven ... and the correct 195 range thermostat and be done with it ...

Deuce ... Moderator

 
#41 ·
cmk59 said:
I've run an ad in the local Craigslist to find if someone will diagnose and fix the problem in return for my '89 Honda Nighthawk..I'm being flooded with emails, but I have to sort 'em out to see who may be trustworthy...

Chuck

Wish I was somewhere near you. I'm outta work at the moment and looking for stuff to keep me busy....(just installed a disposal in my sink tonight :rolleyes: )

I would be on that deal like stink on a skunk!
 
#42 ·
Really?

Deuce said:
Your main problem ... is ... in my opinion
THAT you have removed the original good shroud and belt driven fan.


( photo taken from the internet ... ;) )

General Motors spends tons of time and money engineering their cars to run cool ... why does people think that they can make it BETTER ??? with some aftermarket electric fans.

Install the shroud back on and the proper belt driven ... and the correct 195 range thermostat and be done with it ...

Deuce ... Moderator


Geez, Deuce...I hadn't thought of THAT one. :spank: :boxing: I kinda figured that even with my three (yes, 3) college degrees that maybe GM had known what they were doing...oh, wait, they didn't always, even in those halcyon days!!! Besides, I didn't just willy-nilly remove perfectly good components... they were shot and needed replacement.

Just give me some credit for doing some decent research and not pushing the panic button right off the bat! I ran with the OE setup for 3 years before the old girl developed her 'issues.'

I went with the dual electrics because it was a matter of economics. The fan AND clutch were shot (fan coming apart at the rivets), and it was going to cost as much to replace them as to get the two electrics (on sale at that time). So if you were going to replace a bad one with a (potentially) better one, why wouldn't you? :confused:

BTW, the only t'stats listed for my 327 / TH400 at O'Reilly, AutoZone, Pep Boys, Raceway and Impala Bob's are a 160 and a 180, so I don't know where 195 came from...and believe me, I've looked and asked for 3 solid years. No one has even been able to tell me what the normal op temp for this engine/application is yet.

IF someone could tell me (with any degree of authority - meaning: show me in print) what the temp my engine should be on a 90 degree day, and it was 195-205, I might believe them. Might. But when the gauge reads 220 within 15 minute of operation with a puny 160 t'stat in it, and pegs 250 with the AC on ... and I'm no mechanic, but I have run a motor pool worth $225 million in the USAF ... I'd say that, if anything, I indulged in needless overkill and something else must be wrong.

Chuck
 
#43 ·
I wish you were closer, too!

Holder350 said:
Wish I was somewhere near you. I'm outta work at the moment and looking for stuff to keep me busy....(just installed a disposal in my sink tonight :rolleyes: )

I would be on that deal like stink on a skunk!

I appreciate that...even though I've specified that the mechanic must buy all parts and do the work locally, folks have come out of the woodwork. I'm hoping I can either find someone who has a good OE fan and clutch to try that route with the original shroud, or will have a large sheet of aluminum to fab me up a shroud for the dual electrics.

Then again, if you wanna travel to OK and do the work here, I'll give ya room and board! :welcome: What tools I don't have, I'll get / borrow. :welcome: :thumbup:

Chuck
 
#44 ·
you say you ran the stock setup for 3 years without trouble?

Seems strange that this happened all of a sudden.

I hate to sound stupid but are you 100% that the gauge is correct?

Is it puking water out of the overflow?

.....the original Tstat had a small hole in it to bypass water by the stat, Hondas use a bleeder screw below the water neck. If theres no water on the stat it will not open.

You know more about what has and hasn't been done, I'm just grasping at straws here to try and give some ideas!

Also... I dont know how your mechanic flushes the system out......but I always take the upper hose of the rad, start it up and let it warm up, all the while keeping the radiator full. (thru the upper hose inlet)

when the engine temp hits the Tstats temp water will start POURING out of the upper hose. I then let it run till it the water coming out of the upper hose is clear.....

This lets you know that the entire system is clean, plus because the water must go thru the rad, engine and the Tstat.....you know if its flowing adequately.
 
#45 · (Edited)
cmk59 said:
Hello, all!

I notice overheating is a hot topic (bad pun) here, but I wanted to dive in with my woes and see if anyone can figure out what I haven't yet. The history:

1968 Impala Custom, 275/327, TH400, dual exhaust with 'h' pipe. New suspension, engine still stock save for water pump and t'stat. Still gets 15 mpg +/= city, so she's still doing ok there.

BUT, she has a cooling problem from Aitch Eee Double Hockey Sticks I can't figure out or fix. For 2 years, the idiot light came on intermittently, but could find no trouble. Added an Auto Meter gauge with probe inserted in lower center of radiator, but this showed actual NUMBERS that freaked me out...well over 290 degrees, w/o the A/C on!

SO, I did the following, in order (rather, my Goodyear guy did it):
1. Back flushed the coolant;
2. Put in a (tested first) 180 deg. thermostat;
3. Added an Impala Bob's 4-core Desert Cooler radiator, along with auxiliary external coolers for the engine oil and trans fluid;
4. Put dual 16" electric fans on said radiator, mounted 1/8" from the core (no shroud of any kind was provided with the fans..they mount on dual rails that span the radiator left to right).

STILL had high temps as described! Now, I added:

5. 160 degree thermostat;
6. 40 GPM hi-flow water pump;
7. All new hoses inside and out;
8. New heater core (thanks to the water pump);
9. Went broke converting the A/C to the new refrigerant.

And still the problem persists. It takes the car just 15 mins or so to get up to 180 when the ambient temp is 85, but after that it just climbs to about 205-210. If I use the A/C, the temp gauge pegs out and coolant spews out the overflow!

As we all know, the cavernous interior of a '68 Full-Size Chevy takes awhile to cool, but I can't risk using it anymore. I'm fed up and broke, and the only thing I HAVEN'T replaced is the condenser, which seems fine.

What next?
What's the normal op temp for my engine anyway?
Do I need to replace the condenser with something new anyhow?
Should I try to make a shroud of my own out of rubber, etc, to cover the inboard areas of the radiator not covered by the fans?

Please help me...I hate to sound pathetic, but I can't deal with this any more, and need a positive fix!

Chuck
Norman, OK
Holder350 sorry that was not me :thumbup: I had a Mustang being towed in, and I had to be outside, letting the driver know how to back up the driveway. His son had asked to use my computer, and I told him to minimize what I had on it.. Sorry again.
 
#46 ·
Let's see you have replaced every thing in the cooling system.....The only thing(s) left is the block and heads, if the block's cooling passage's are half full of sludge you will get the conditions you are having because only half of the cly's have coolant around them and the other half is building heat tru the sludge and is super heating the coolent. With the sludge there the clys can't be cooled within the range of the thermostat.as was stated in a earlier post open up the block drain(s). If you get brown sludge then the block will need to be flushed and the back flush that is done by some shops won't cut it, You will need to take it to a radiator shop and have it pressure flushed.And if it was me I think I would pull the block drains out of the block so I could get a better look at the bottom of the cooling passage's and if all else fails as a last resort the freeze plugs .If this motor has not been rebuilt then it has had 40 years to build up sludge in the block so there is a good chance it's there.A few years back a friend brought a 283 to me to rebuild for him ,when we knocked the freeze plugs out the sludge was higher than the plugs,and the man that he got the motor from said that it had been running hot.
Also both 68's that I owned had 180 degree thermostats and nether ever ran over 200 even with A/C.

Good Luck and post back and let us know what you find
Kenny
 
#47 ·
cmk59 said:
I ran with the OE setup for 3 years before the old girl developed her 'issues.'

I went with the dual electrics because it was a matter of economics. The fan AND clutch were shot (fan coming apart at the rivets), and it was going to cost as much to replace them as to get the two electrics (on sale at that time).
I rest my case for original GM stuff ... :D

Worked for three years ... clutch fans do wear out. Hayden makes replacements ... original GM units are on eBay ( new ) all the time ...



This one is on now for 90 dollars @ Buy it now price ... ;)



Junk yards are full of fans ...

College degrees do not fix cars. My wife has two ( one a Masters ) and she cannot work on her new Cadillac Deville either ... :rolleyes:

You supervised a 225 million dollar motor pool and you take you cars to a mechanic ??
______________________________________________





I do practice what I suggest ... both of my 430 HP 32 Fords use a clutch fan and a shroud ... :D and run @ 180 to 190 even here in the HOT, HUMID South

_____________________________________________

Please disregard my advice ... I was just trying to HELP you get your car running on temperature ... Apparently you or your mechanic is enjoying this :confused:
 
#48 ·
Things that make you go "hmmmmm"

Holder350 said:
you say you ran the stock setup for 3 years without trouble?
Seems strange that this happened all of a sudden.
I hate to sound stupid but are you 100% that the gauge is correct?
Is it puking water out of the overflow?
.....the original Tstat had a small hole in it to bypass water by the stat, Hondas use a bleeder screw below the water neck. If theres no water on the stat it will not open.
You know more about what has and hasn't been done, I'm just grasping at straws here to try and give some ideas!
Also... I dont know how your mechanic flushes the system out......but I always take the upper hose of the rad, start it up and let it warm up, all the while keeping the radiator full. (thru the upper hose inlet)
when the engine temp hits the Tstats temp water will start POURING out of the upper hose. I then let it run till it the water coming out of the upper hose is clear.....
This lets you know that the entire system is clean, plus because the water must go thru the rad, engine and the Tstat.....you know if its flowing adequately.

Well, it hasn't really happened all of a sudden, but has been an on-and-off thing...the idiot light was held largely at fault, as there was no replicable set of conditions where the light would show overheating, even in winter! I chalked it up to a bad sending unit when a guy with an IR meter measured the temp at 10 points around my engine block and came up with temps between 179 and 182. I figured the sending unit was the culprit. Then I started having real problems in year 4....

As to the gauge, who knows how correct they are from the factory? I bought a name-brand gauge (Auto Meter), that was the best I could do...nothing to measure its performance against...but that's a very good, valid point!

Yes, when it overtemps, the coolant comes puking back out the overflow tank's vent. I installed the overflow tank when I bought the car and saw it didn't have one...a fairly smart move on my part, I thought...

Y'know, I've seen where people recommended drilling an 1/16" hole in the side of the t'stat (flange) to enhance cooling, but had never considered it an issue before...and the stats I've bought have never had such a feature. Things that make you go...well, you know.

I don't mind grasping at straws, either...it's people that say you did something wrong when you didn't that is irritating. You're fine!

As to flushing the system, when I did my own (before the disability limited my ability to work on my own cars), I removed the t'stat, reinstalled the housing and then did exactly what you described, occasionally using a flushing agent if the radiator had gunk in it. We're definitely of like minds there! AS to how HE did it, well, that's anyone's guess...as I said, not being able to work on 'em myself anymore, you take your life (er, car) into your own hands putting your faith in someone else...kinda like when I paid a guy to put new suspension pieces I'd bought from Impala Bob's on my Impala, and he only installed 1/2 of them, saying the rest of the bushings, etc were fine...but that wasn't what I asked and paid him to do, and he refused to finish the job to my satisfaction.

We're still in litigation over that little deal, but he has more money than I do.

Chuck
 
#49 ·
For a Ford guy, you're all right!

Shelby1 said:
Let's see you have replaced every thing in the cooling system.....The only thing(s) left is the block and heads, if the block's cooling passage's are half full of sludge you will get the conditions you are having because only half of the cly's have coolant around them and the other half is building heat tru the sludge and is super heating the coolent. With the sludge there the clys can't be cooled within the range of the thermostat.as was stated in a earlier post open up the block drain(s). If you get brown sludge then the block will need to be flushed and the back flush that is done by some shops won't cut it, You will need to take it to a radiator shop and have it pressure flushed.And if it was me I think I would pull the block drains out of the block so I could get a better look at the bottom of the cooling passage's and if all else fails as a last resort the freeze plugs .If this motor has not been rebuilt then it has had 40 years to build up sludge in the block so there is a good chance it's there.A few years back a friend brought a 283 to me to rebuild for him ,when we knocked the freeze plugs out the sludge was higher than the plugs,and the man that he got the motor from said that it had been running hot.
Also both 68's that I owned had 180 degree thermostats and nether ever ran over 200 even with A/C.

Good Luck and post back and let us know what you find
Kenny

Kenny, you (re) present an earlier suggestion, but with the best and most cogent argument for doing it yet, and one that makes eminent sense, given what I've already been through. :thumbup: Bless you, and I will take your comments to my new mechanic and insist on such a power flush...I was leaning toward that, but now I'm convinced!!! Pls contact me off forum at cmk59@yahoo.com, and I'll keep you up-to-date..I can't always be on the forums!

Chuck
 
#50 ·
cmk59 said:
(before the disability limited my ability to work on my own cars)
Chuck
Sorry to hear about your disability ... :mad:
I had a heart attack a few years back and was down for about 3 months before I could start back towards regaining my strength and mobility. 5 bypasses will do that to you.

I had a 68 Chevrolet and it ran 190 ot 200 with the A/C on. I had added Stewart Warner temperature gauge to the car. We got 68 Impala NEW ... so I never really looked at the range on the thermostat.

Overheating issues can be very frustrating.
Hopefully you will prevail.

Deuce ...
 
#51 ·
Thanks, Deuce.

Deuce said:
Sorry to hear about your disability ... :mad:
I had a heart attack a few years back and was down for about 3 months before I could start back towards regaining my strength and mobility. 5 bypasses will do that to you.

I had a 68 Chevrolet and it ran 190 ot 200 with the A/C on. I had added Stewart Warner temperature gauge to the car. We got 68 Impala NEW ... so I never really looked at the range on the thermostat.

Overheating issues can be very frustrating.
Hopefully you will prevail.

Deuce ...

I appreciate your help, Deuce, I truly do. The ideal I'm striving for is what you just described with your '68...no more, no less. When you're in the shape I'm in (and the drugs don't help much in high humidity, save to make you feel worse!), a comfy car with a good AC is worth its weight (and then some) in gold...or gas!

I'm dealing with ruptured discs, spinal stenosis, lymphedema and early-stage MS. My heart, after a week of tests, is ok, though I have a funky valve they want to keep tabs on. Fun, huh? Still, my 'baby', my Impala is one of my great joys next to my wife...sux that I have to endure this at just 48 after serving most of my life in the USAF, but that's life, and you play the cards you're dealt.

Kenny has a good idea, and with the suggestion the gauge may indeed be in error, I'm going to have it checked against a different/better(?) one and see what happens. Still, it's hard to argue with puking coolant and the temp showing hot, y'know? A more accurate gauge would definitely lower the angst, though!

Thanks again for the kindness and thoughts. I'll keep everyone up to date as I find out more.

Chuck
 
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