|07-10-2008 05:56 AM|
|mak||Thanks for all the info.|
|07-09-2008 09:36 PM|
Thanks for the information, I will start searching for a donor panel tomorrow.
|07-09-2008 08:41 PM|
|07-09-2008 07:39 PM|
Just an aside I found some flanging pliers made by Blair and bought a pair..those things make installing those patch panels a snap..
|07-09-2008 07:02 PM|
The "ghost line" is caused by the expansion and retraction rate being different between the metal and the glue.
However, I will post later (if I can find it) a bulletin from GM on bonding a roof splice on a Blazer that shows how you can reduce the ghost line by grinding the metal thin just as you would with fiberglass.
Depending on the location and the color of the car, this ghost line can be horrible, or hardly noticable.
If you want to read a little on just how strong these modern adhesives check this out....My sons science project...click here.
|07-09-2008 06:26 PM|
|07-08-2008 10:58 PM|
It would work GREAT for that. Don't use rivits, small sheet metal screws that you can easily remove would be better.
But honestly, for a zillion mile driver, it is perfect. Yes there will likely be a "ghost line" that you will likely see. But for a "zillion mile driver", I say go for it.
|07-08-2008 10:34 PM|
Gluing Patch Panel
Hey all...my everyday sales driver is rusting right below the gas filler door..It has a zillion miles on it but doesnt look too bad otherwise...
I want to patch the 6" x10" rust area by cutting it out and then flanging and then replacing it with a good patch from a donor car....I want to avoid dropping the gas tank and welding and wonder if the new panel adhesives would work in this situation for an everyday driver that just needs to look a little better. I suppose a few rivets could hold it in place while it is drying, a skim coat, and then a quick blend job...
Anyone tried this method of repair....