Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine> Building a Cheapy drag motor
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: Building a Cheapy drag motor Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
07-12-2008 07:57 PM
Opti Hey Guys Ive been lookin and lookin at the vortecs and one thing bothers me.

I know these heads were designed for truck motors (ie lots of torque) and damn near every dyno I seem of them, they do Amazing down low but not so well up top.

I could really care less how much torque this motor makes as long as it makes good hp, do you guys think there could be a better choice for around the same price for heads for a top end motor?

The vortecs Im lookign at are the Patriot versions. The already come with screw in studs, and bigger valves.

Or do you think that most peopls powerbands is due to their manifold and cam choice, I know those playa big part but do yall think that isky cam with the patriot vortecs will make a good top end motor?
07-12-2008 05:49 PM
Opti It doesnt really require exotic or all that expenisve parts, just a little more in key areas.

I helped build a cammed Lt1 to last at 7K it pretty mcuh just involved better bearings in the bottom end, and ARP rod bolts. Thing is still chuggin 30K miles later.
07-12-2008 05:40 PM
Blazin72 Just trying to give you ideas to help save a little money. You're looking for a "cheapy" engine right? A high rpm engine that is built to last a long time is not going to be cheap...
07-12-2008 05:23 PM
Opti Blazin:

That could make a good fun street engine but it would absolutely blow for a strip only motor.
07-12-2008 04:52 PM
Blazin72 Opti, want to keep costs down? Build the 383 with very good low-mid range torque and run a slightly higher gear. Lower rpm keeps wear and tear down and you won't have to be as concerned with the expensive high strength parts that is needed for higher rpm engines. Building an engine that doesn't have much torque down low and combining that with lower rear gears means you're going to have to spin the engine higher. Higher rpms means more stress on engine parts which, in turn, means you're going to be spending more money on expensive parts to keep from grenading things.

Just something to think about.
07-12-2008 04:07 PM
Opti Ive only seen two stock Lt1 pistons fail. Both were on decent size shots fail (200 an 180) the others were on cheaply build 383 and 388 where they skimped on pistons (hyper) and thought they could still run big shots.

Id still prefer to run forged stuff but I will reconsider some of the hyper sutff.
07-12-2008 03:51 PM
Opti I run around with mostly Late model guys since I own an LT1, but I have seen first hand Quite a FEW of them fail especially the hyper ones. Most of the forged ones I seen fail are from major tuning issues on big boost or spray cars.

Its more justa piece of mind thing. I mean if I throw the vortecs on a hate them no biggie just replace them when I have money, If I dont liek the pistons then its a ***** to replace them.

On a side note I got my dad on board. Ever since I sold my 69 Firebird (43K miles, bought it as an investment) hes wanted another project to work with me on and I think me and him can have some fun on a junkyard build liek this.
07-12-2008 03:41 PM
Opti Do you have experience with those guys. The verter was one thing I didnt want to cheap one.

Ive seen alot of guys by the cheaper stalls and have a lot of problems with them.

Will these guys build it to my specs, like tr, stall speed and everything.
07-12-2008 03:34 PM
Opti I will not run cast or hyper pistons.
07-12-2008 03:28 PM
Chevrolet4x4s http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3176...ssemblies.html

Shane
07-12-2008 03:14 PM
Opti You really like that cam dont you.

That son of a ***** is huge. I really like that its ground on a 106 though, I always hated that all the EFI guys run these wide LSA cams cause the big cam grinders think a 106 or 107 will not work with EFI. BS.

As far as im concerned a 106 is the only way to go on a SBC.

Do you have experience with this cam. The car will be very very occasionally street driven (probably just to and from the track).
07-12-2008 03:00 PM
Opti I went and looked at the block and its a 1980 corvette block.

Im thinking GM crank, Scat I beams, Speed Pro Forged Pistons, ported Vortec, and I have no idea on the manifold or cam, but you guys thnk I should stick with a flat tappet?
07-12-2008 02:58 PM
Opti
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
My view is Torque wins races, not horsepower. But thats just my view.
I love a torquey motor for the street but for a dedicated drag racer I dont see why a stump puller is neccesary. If the thing doesnt make alot of torque the gear the **** out of it. gear reduction creates torque.

All of the proffesional drag racers i've ever known have always told me torque isnt important in drag racing.
07-12-2008 02:55 PM
tuneup427 Here is something I have observed. Once I have a good basic engine the things that cut my E.T are #1. torque converter #2 rear end gears #3 slicks (short slicks can work for #2 if the gears are in the 3.73 or lower) #4 additional engine mod. (trick heads, more trick cam.....) and they usually require more of 1-3. Ever try running a real hot cam with a stock converter. Yea me too but what a waste.
07-12-2008 02:42 PM
tuneup427 I agree, unless you got a huge budget.
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.