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Old 09-01-2010, 05:18 AM
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Nitrous Power Shot Help

I'm running my Vette this weekend and want to install my Nitrous Power Shot system over to this car BUT I want tone it down to a 75hp shot.. The Power Shot system, as you may know, is a fixed 125hp system (no jets) and according to the tech at Jegs, I had to buy new fittings for the plate so I can install jets, which I did.. HOWEVER, after getting the plate fittings the jets wouldnt fit so I contacted the same tech again and he said "oops, you also need the new hard lines that go from the new fittings to the solenoids BUT we dont stock both of them" part# 16861 & 16860 and I cant find anyone else that does either.. I found some soft lines but then my solenoids wont have a solid mount.. Are there any alternatives? I just want to make sure if I have to order other parts that I get everything I need because I am down to the deadline now and will probably have to order everything 2-day air...

Thanks!!

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Old 09-01-2010, 02:20 PM
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You can get various different brackets that mount to the carb studs for the solenods to bolt to, if you want to use flex lines. The brackets attach to the two small holes on the bottom of the solenoid bases. There are individual brackets for a solenoid, to attach to a single carb mounting stud, and there are brackets that hold both solenoids and attach to a pair of carb studs.

Jegs, Summit, NOS, Nitrous Works, Nitrous Express, Nitrous Supply, Inducton Solutions, etc. Can supply either brackets, or line kits.
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Old 09-01-2010, 02:54 PM
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You would need to swap the plate for one from a "Superpower shot" or "cheater" system. The plate you have is not the same.
You would esentually have a superpower shot system, when done.

Why do you want to step down the power level?
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Old 09-01-2010, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
You would need to swap the plate for one from a "Superpower shot" or "cheater" system. The plate you have is not the same.
You would esentually have a superpower shot system, when done.

Why do you want to step down the power level?
I'm basically running a stock rotating assembly and worried its to much.. However it is all brand new.. My plans were to start out at 75hp and then bump up 25hp at a time from there to make sure it stays together.. Everything else besides the rotating assembly is high performance such as aluminum heads, big cam (.250 @ .050), RPM intake, BG 750dp, accell/mallory ignition..

Should I just run the whole 125hp shot and just detune (run less timing)? I'm locked out right now at 38 and was thinking I could drop down to 34 and run the whole shot? My plans would be to come off the line and then start shooting it about 80ft out because it already launches pretty hard without anything right now..
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:17 PM
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What plugs are you running, how much fuel pressure do you have, Whats the compression ratio? How many feet above sea level are you? What is all specs on camshaft? All these things will determine how the nitrous will effect the motor. I have seen motors live for 5 years on a 125 shot, then again i have seen parts scattered everywhere on the first pass. and you can pull more timing out of the motor than 4 degrees for safety issues. If the motor has been run and the harmonic balancer has twisted you can get a false reading on timing.
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:45 AM
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If you do somehow modify the power shot plate to take adjustable jetting you will then have an unknown untested (potentually desastorous) nitrous system as the power shot plate is not the same as the cheater/superpowershot plate. The correct jetting combos probabily won;t be the same.

You have way more risk of scattering it using your jerry rigged plans than running the tried and true tested fixed calibration of the goof proof power shot system at 125hp.

This level is just a tune up on a bbc. wHEN USED AS DESIGNED.
Do not attempt to be your own (backyard) nitrous engineer. You will be on the trailer and going home faster than you can think.

5.5psi fuel presure 32deg advance good gas in the tank is your best insurance.
Nothing stopping you from filling with 100 octane. crap gas is your worst ennemy with nitrous.
The only thing with nitrous is you do not want to hit it at a low near idle engine rpm.
A high stall converter is best. Use a WOT switch and a hand push button to control it. Rug it, ....then immediately hit it as soon as the engine responds to the throttle and rpms. Vary the timing of that launch proceedure based on available traction. 80ft is way to late if you want to go fast.
you want the nitrous to hit after the einge has sppoled up on the converter at launch (reached the stall speed) as opposed to engaging when the engine is idling and has not yet started to accelerate up in rpm.
A adjustable rpm window switch combined with a WOT switch allows this.

the 125hp power shot is pretty tame. its really hard to hurt a motor using it but modifying a kit such as you are planning to do is a SURE PATH TO A BAD DAY. dO NOT MODIFY THE POWER SHOT SYSTEM. THE PLATE IS NOT THE SAME AS THE SUPERPOWER SHOT.
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:58 AM
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From your previous posts its obvoius your enigne combo is not yet sorted out.

Adding nitrous will not fix that. Adding nitrous to a mis tuned bad running combo will only achieve one thing.

if the car ain't running 100% A-1,, hold off on the spray until its all sorted out.

Most all nitrous misshaps are totally avoidable operator mistakes.
1. being modifying a system without dyno test verification.
2. Spraying a untuned- poorly tuned motor.
3. low octane crap gas.
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Old 09-02-2010, 01:18 AM
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F-Bird is correct on all of this.

The Powershot plate has fewer and different size holes than the Super Powershot/Cheater/Sniper plate does. Stock Powershot has no jets, and the plate's spraybar holes are sized for the correct fuel amount and nitrous amount to make 125 hp. No telling what MAY happen with your jerry-rigged set-up but you are on your own there. May work fine due to the fact you are reducing what is fed to the plate with jets but I would definately want confirmation from NOS that this has a acceptable chance of working.

If the engine smokes, AT ALL, don't even attempt to spray it. Oil and nitrous turns into a cutting torch when mixed together. Motor has to have good ring seal and be well tuned - NO PCV valve allowed.

The stock 125 powershot is pretty foolproof and safe, even stock cast piston SBC's will handle it with no problem if in good shape. I'd pull at least 4 timing and run 98 or better octane if you have no nitrous experience. More octane gives an even bigger cushion.

Rushing things just for one fun day will have a good chance of spoiling the engine.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:51 AM
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The motor is running great now and I haven't had to change the plugs since my last post here concerning that issue. Yes its still rich when I first fire it up cold but the richness goes away once I drive it and warm it up.. There after I can let it idle and the fumes aren't strong and it doesn't foul plugs.. The car launches real hard from a dead idle and I have made some 6000rpm pulls with no issues at all so I thinks it ready. I don't have any spark knock with 93 octane fuel but I will be running racing fuel (100+) for this weekends race.

Compression, according to the company that built the short block is 10-1 with my 64cc heads. Fuel pressure has been adequate thus far at a steady 7 PSI.. The entire drive train is all brand new including TCI trans with 3000 stall, all new spicer u-joints, 4.11 posi, heavy duty balanced 3" half shafts, rebuilt trailing arms, adjustable trackbars, etc.. I assembled it all myself so hopefully it stays together

As for jury rigging, that wasn't my intention at all. I emailed Holley and asked was needed to run this system with jets (I checked my email again and it was a Holley tech not a Jegs tech) and they just said I needed the "fixed plate adapters" and then later said I also needed the upgraded super power shot hard lines that run from the new plate adapters to the solenoids and then install the appropriate jets I needed based on what HP I wanted to shoot.. If the plates are different then I agree, I shouldn't start rigging it but I didn't know that and Holley never told me that either.
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:39 PM
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Well reguardless , do not modify the system. I've been doing this longer than that tech guy has been alive most likely. The poer shot system is near goof proof when used as designed and will not over power your engine.

Here is a tip: you want to launch the car from at near idle to get max converter flash and a hard quick launch, but... you do not want to load the motor with nitrous at that low near idle rpm, immediately, when you hit the button.
You want the nitrous to come on, only once the motor has spooled up to the converters flash stall speed rpm.

Incorperating a RPM window switch as well as a WOT switch allows this control.
Set the window switch to come on right at or just a hair above the converters observed flash stall speed at launch. (3000++rpm)
(Watch the converter flash rpm at launch (tach), {with slicks})

That way the nitrous never comes on too early, risking overtorqueing the motor at too low an rpm. (Nor too late)

Bring a new set of spark plugs with you. They should be a tad cooler heat range than what you normally run on the street. But you do not need a raceing plug at this power level.

You should get 7 to 8 passes on a bottle at @125HP. The last pass will be kind of crappy as the bottle empties. A spare bottle is best.
Watch the bottle temp/presssure 85F. 850PSI is best.
The fuel pressure is your tuning device. Start at 5.5PSI.
You need a verified accurate fuel pressure gauge that reads accuratly to 1/4PSI.
1/4psi +/- fuel pressure change has a significant effect on the Nitrous/fuel ratio and power received. the better the gauge, the better the tuneup.
Do not venture below 5psi flowing at any time.

You'd be suprised how much many fuel pressure gauges are out of wack.
A truely accurate fuel pressure gauge is your friend.

Good gas in the tank is a very good idea.

4.11:1 gears and nitrous:
The nitrous is going to add about 10MPH to the track trap speed.
if when making a pass on the spray, the engine rpm gets too high at the top of high gear, just get off the nitrous but keep your foot on the gas.
(or use the window switch)
This will maximize the ET gain with minimum loss on the top end yet limit the rpms at the top if nessessary.

It's all about control.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-02-2010 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 09-02-2010, 04:30 PM
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Thank you, I'll let you know how it goes provided the weather is in my favor.. The closest NOS filling station was about 10 minutes away but there pump just broke so I have to drive over an hour tomorrow just to get the tank filled
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Old 09-02-2010, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My68Vette
Thank you, I'll let you know how it goes provided the weather is in my favor.. The closest NOS filling station was about 10 minutes away but there pump just broke so I have to drive over an hour tomorrow just to get the tank filled
Where are you at in Michigan, I may be able to point you in a closer direction. I'm just south of the cereal city (Battle Creek).
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Old 09-03-2010, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Where are you at in Michigan, I may be able to point you in a closer direction. I'm just south of the cereal city (Battle Creek).
I'm up here in the north, just below the Mackinaw bridge
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My68Vette
Thank you, I'll let you know how it goes provided the weather is in my favor.. The closest NOS filling station was about 10 minutes away but there pump just broke so I have to drive over an hour tomorrow just to get the tank filled
You can fill your bootle using the gravity transfer method with no pump by freezing your bottle overnight before filling. Stick it in the freezer overnight.

elevate the source bottle a bit higher than the receiving bottle. Put the receiving bottle on a scale
connect, then open both valves. Stop when 10 pumps of weight is added to your bottle by watchng the scale weight .
Do not over fill. The bottle must be very cold. (overnight in a freezer)

its that easy. Let the bottle heat back up to 85F before use. Hot tap water, bottle heater etc . Never use a flame on a bottle.

if you don;t have a bottle heater, take a big picnic cooler full of hot hot tap water to the track. it will last all day and easily heat the bottle to 85F-850psi.
You can adjust the bottle temp/pressure very quickly in the hot water cooler.
It's much faster than a bottle heater.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-03-2010 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 09-03-2010, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
You can fill your bootle using the gravity transfer method with no pump by freezing your bottle overnight before filling. Stick it in the freezer overnight.

elevate the source bottle a bit higher than the receiving bottle. Put the receiving bottle on a scale
connect, then open both valves. Stop when 10 pumps of weight is added to your bottle by watchng the scale weight .
Do not over fill. The bottle must be very cold. (overnight in a freezer)

its that easy. Let the bottle heat back up to 85F before use. Hot tap water, bottle heater etc . Never use a flame on a bottle.

if you don;t have a bottle heater, take a big picnic cooler full of hot hot tap water to the track. it will last all day and easily heat the bottle to 85F-850psi.
You can adjust the bottle temp/pressure very quickly in the hot water cooler.
It's much faster than a bottle heater.
I was lucky enough to find another source that was even closer.. The guy drag races snowmobiles and has his own filling station.. I just came back from there with a full bottle and I'm ready to roll.. I'll try the cooler with warm water.. Now I just hope the weather holds up for Sunday.. 130 cars have entered already.. Its basically a heads-up, grunge match, race who you want, fun day with roughly 8000 spectators.. I just installed the new ET street slicks (28x11.5-16) and they hook hard on the road so it should be even better at the track with some VHT..

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