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Old 05-12-2010, 06:51 PM
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Nitrous question

Hey guys, I'm in the stages of building a 383 sbc right now and I am interested, in the future that is, to add a bit of nitrous. I am only looking at a 100-150hp max nitrous shot but I have some questions concerning my engine and if it would survive that. The engine when it's all set and done should have around 450hp, maybe more. I currently have a scat cast crank with less than 1000km on it so I was planning on using it for this build. Question is, would a cast crank be able to handle that kind of hp with a nitrous shot? It would probably bring me up to 550-600hp with the nitrous activated. I am assuming that the cast crank would be the first component to look at when considering the addition of nitrous. I have read articles where they have tested stock GM parts to see the amount of power they can handle before failure and I think I remember reading they got over 600hp out of a stock GM cast crank before failure. My other question concerning the nitrous is does anybody know of a 100-150hp kit that comes with the PURGE circuit as well as the fuel and nitrous delivery circuit? There are all sorts of kits on summit for around $400 that come with the nitrous delivery and fuel delivery solenoids but I would also like the addition of the purge circuit as well. Below is a list of the engine build so far.

-350 block 0.040" over and 0 decked
-Wiesco flat-tops +5.4cc
-6 inch scat I-beam rods
-Scat 3.75" stroker crank cast
-AFR 195cc aluminum heads with 72cc chambers
-0.040 compressed gasket thickness
-1.6:1 rockers
-Edelbrock rpm air gap intake manifold
-10.1:1 SCR
-Going into a 1980 camaro with a 6 speed t56 manual trans.

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Old 05-12-2010, 07:35 PM
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Pick the right cam, and that will be a great piece of muscle. However....I personally would not chance messing up those beautiful $1600 heads and $500 pistons with a busted $200 crank. Save a few more bucks, get steel crank and spray with confidence. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 05-12-2010, 07:42 PM
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Hi,
The link is by david vizard on scat's web page, scroll down to
crank, rods, piston & rings.
Rich

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/publications1.asp
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Old 05-12-2010, 08:15 PM
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Very good read, thanks for posting that link. I have just finished reading 2 of David Wizards books on "how to build big inch small block chevys" and "how to build performance small blocks on a budget". So according to that engine build, the EXACT same crankshaft I have is used and handles that 650hp without issue. I also have those cheap scat I-beams they used in the test as well (I bought a scat rotating assembly a while back). I guess it would be playing russian rullette if I didn't go forged and I would be kicking myself if I went with my cast crank and it went south when I hit the red button. Also according to that test the cheapy 6 inch I-beams can handle that power too. The article didn't mention anything about main caps however, but I would assume that stock 4 bolt caps wouldn't cut it. I am pretty much in the position to replicate that build as I have most of the parts already but it may be a good idea to go the forged crank route just for added insurance.....
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:31 PM
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We have been spraying 175hp on top of a 383/500hp engine, Scat cast crank and I-beam rods, TRW pistons for 5+ years with no problems. The Scat crank is a lot tougher than a factory cast and closer in strength to the factory forged crank for a 350. I wouldn't worry about your parts list one bit, put it together and run it. I build a couple similar engines a year,12 or so out there, none have had a Scat crank failure.

Failure might be an issue with circle track, but street/strip or Drag it is not an issue.

Purge kits are usually bought seperate, they contain everything needed to put one in a system.
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