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Old 07-02-2010, 07:42 AM
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No battery power after starter replaced

Removed and shimmed a starter on a 76 chevy pickup 350/auto and one week later my son tells me there's no electrical, lights, starter or anything. It also can't be jumped off. I haven't seen the truck since this happened but I'm guessing a fusible link or something has gone bad. Where does the hot wire from the starter go, somewhere on the firewall? Anyone know where a fusible link would be that could knock out all battery power. I'm trying to give him some hints as to what he should be looking for since I can't get to the truck at this time.

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Old 07-02-2010, 08:02 AM
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Fusible Link

Let's start with the simple stuff . You say a 1976 pickup so the wiring is probably brittle especially at the terminals . Start back at the starter and check the power feed wire that goes on the same starter terminal as the battery cable . Tug on it a little and make sure it is intact . I had a 1978 K-10 years ago and as I recall that wire comes up to a terminal block on the firewall . As I said , start at the starter connection and follow it from there . Let me know how that checks out .Hope this helps .
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Old 07-02-2010, 09:48 AM
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beside the large power cable from the battery + itself there should be 3 fuse link 10ga wires attached to the same post on the starter as the large battery cable . These 3 wires feed the wiring harness inside the cab. It sounds like one or more of them fuse links has blown. make sure to replace them with fuse link wire not just wire!!!
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Old 07-02-2010, 11:21 AM
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Thanks guys, is the 10 gauge fuse link a short wire or does it run the full lenght to the harness? He has a set of headers on this thing so I guess a hot wire was against the header.
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:59 PM
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they are about 3-4 inches long once you take the wires loose you will notice a bulge of plastic on the wire from that point to the starter terminal is the fuse link wire. just check them with an ohm meter. probe one test lead into the side prior to the bulge and the other to the terminal and it should tell you which is bad. do not solder fuse link wire either, crimp or posi-lok them as soldering will change the capacity of the wire and could cause a fire, if something was to short out.
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Old 07-02-2010, 03:27 PM
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Which side of the starter solenoid do you have the wires connected to?
Are they hooked to the inside terminal towards the block or the outside terminal.

Cole
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Old 07-02-2010, 06:14 PM
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The large starter post has both the main battery cable and the power feeds connected to it. The other smaller posts are used to operate the solenoid and for connection to a points distributor (which you don't have),

Either the fusible link is blown on the 10 gauge wire, or the wire is not making good contact on the starter post. The fusible links are 14 gauge, and every parts place carries them as a standard item under the Help! or Dorman brand names. Its a quick job to crimp splice a new one in.

There is a two-post junction block on the firewall next to the brake booster. Standing in front of the truck, the post on the left side of the block (passenger side) is where the 10 gauge wire connects (it runs straight down). If you don't have 12 volts on that terminal, you have to trace the wire and figure out why there is no connectivity.

Bruce
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Old 07-02-2010, 10:02 PM
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Thanks for the help guys, I'm going to take a look tomorrow.
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