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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2009, 07:45 PM
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Hey lugnut.... did you get your brakes working?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2009, 05:04 PM
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NOpe still no pressure I called Right Stuff,they said take the caliper bolts off,keeping it on the rotors,rotate it where the bleeder points to the front of the car and try bleeding it.They said usually there is air trapped in it Also of people have trouble with 4-wheel GM disc getting all the air out
Nobody to help right now,so going to try tomorrow
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2009, 07:07 PM
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on my 59, I had to completely remove the caliper and use a spacer in between the pads to get them bled.

Why in the world do these 'kit' providers refuse to position the caliper on the axel so they can be bled.

Also--if e-brake equipped--the piston is adjusted with the e-brake pivot.
The brakes should be adjusted before trying to bleed
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:35 PM
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Hey all,here we go Called Right Stuff,he said check,E-brake adjuster,make sure the piston is all the way in I dont think this is it Its just not producing any brake pressure I can take a line off the rear and hit the pedal and it just dribbles out.I rechecked all the fittings and there is no leaks. Going to check Prop Valve next,got to be missing something Thanks for the help,Im not giving up yet
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2009, 09:33 PM
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try cracking a bleeder on one of the calipers up front.
Then
give a quick, hard stomp on the brake pedal.

Not to the floor----just a quick stab and release.

In the event you prop valve had moved (probable), you may be able to 'shock' the valve piston back into place.

In order to keep it centered when bleeding (have to bleed the front caliper again) don't stomp on the pedal to build up pressure.

Gently pump the pedal to build pressure while bleeding , and you greatly lessen the chance of the valve going 'off center' again.
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Old 08-22-2009, 01:24 PM
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Ok I think I have it,of course right Stuff havent been much help,butat least they talked to me They told me to plug the master and if the pedal was up,it was good so I didnt go any farther Today I took the line off that goes to prop valve and hooked a 6in line to it with a bottle,pumped the brakes, and nothing came out. The master is not pumping any fluid out.Im going to bleed the master,but both outlets are dry, So unless there is a crap load of air in it or my adjustment is way off,it must be bad.They didnt really tell me how to adjust the stroke on the rod but I have good travel Im getting closer
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2009, 02:41 PM
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I bet your pushrod for the master cylinder is too long which isn't letting the M/C pistons to uncover the ports that feed the fluid ahead of the pistons.
That's my theory, and I'm sticking to it.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2009, 03:18 PM
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It could be at the distribution block, You might have to un-hook the lines to the front wheels at the master cylinder and gravity feed to the back wheels after you get fluid there hook the front lines up and get fluid to the right front then the left front, Have you cracked the lines at the distribution block to see if fluid is coming through there? I have been through this and once you get the fluid through the distribution block to the rear you will get it to the front. The reason for un-hooking the lines to the front is so no fluid can get there just to the rear and when you unhook the lines if you do this plug it off so the fluid will only go to the rear. And once you get the fluid to the rear hook the front back up and continue bleeding the brakes . And sometimes it takes more then one try so have alittle Patience, Or it could be the rod as said above.JMO. Cole

Last edited by eloc431962; 08-22-2009 at 03:32 PM.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2009, 03:40 PM
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[QUOTE=scrot]I bet your pushrod for the master cylinder is too long which isn't letting the M/C pistons to uncover the ports that feed the fluid ahead of the pistons.
That's my theory, and I'm sticking to it.

That is the same thought I have. I had no time to post it earlier though.

GEEZ, it's feast or famin in this economy. I have to work all weekend, just to make room for more scheduled vehicles, coming in Monday, through Thursday.

lugnut, I hope you find it.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2009, 10:01 AM
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Bench bleeding the master

Lugnut,
Ok first things first, You said you had to bleed the master cyl. after you have been pumping it? From what I'm getting here that you never bench bleed the master cyl.. To bench bleed a master cyl.. You put the master cyl. in the vise by clamping one of the ears where the bolts go thru " NOT ON THE BODY" the big part. Now make sure its tight, plug the line holes with plugs to keep the fluid from coming out now fill the master with clean fluid,
(you can leave the top off the master) push the plunger slowly in about 1" hold and release. Wait about 1 minute or so and do it again, you'll be able to see the bubbles rise to the top of the master cyl. bowls. Do this until all the bubbles all stop, and take your time it might take you half an hour or so to do this. When you see no more bubbles your done. Take it out of the vise and re-install.

If you didn't bleed the master before you installed it in the car the first time, and you pumped it and bottomed out the piston you might have damaged the rear seal in the master. And you'll know if the seals bad cause it'll start to leak at the rear of the master after its been in the car a few days...

I hope this helps..
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2009, 01:12 PM
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Ok,Right Stuff is sending me a new master,regardless of what this one has done,it is not pumping any fluid Be it my fault or thiers They are shipping it today,should be here tomorrow I will bench bleed it! Also told me how to adjust the pedal travel,so I will start fresh and give a update tomorrow thanks for all the replys
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2009, 03:42 PM
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Lugnut, If you want to make it easy in bleeding the brakes. Go to a local automotive store and get a bleed-check valve for the front and back. The thread size may be different. Remove the regular bleed valve and temporally install bleed-check valve and all you do is pump the brake pedal. The brake fluid will come out but the built in check valve will not let any air back in. Once your done, remove the bleed-check valve put back the regular bleed valve and your done. Hope this will help you.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Once your done, remove the bleed-check valve put back the regular bleed valve and your done. Hope this will help you.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2009, 07:51 AM
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What? never heard of bleed-check valve? It's a bleeder valve with a built in check valve, simple as that.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2009, 03:05 PM
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Heard of it? I have them on my front disc brakes now. My point is that you said to bleed the air out of the system using the valves, then remove them and replace them with the regular bleed screws. When you open the system to switch bleed screws, you let air back in the system. You'll have to bleed them again. You can, and should leave the check valves/bleeder screws on the car.
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