no brake pressure - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2009, 03:21 PM
lg1969's Avatar
Google "Tunnel Ram 406"
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bohemia, L.I.N.Y.
Age: 64
Posts: 1,054
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 21 Times in 18 Posts
Not really, When you remove bleeder-check valve no air is returning back as long the brake is not applied. In-fact gravity will cause the brake fluid to bleed on it's own while changing the bleeder valve. If you do not replace the bleeder check valve, Brake fluid will shoot out every time you hit the brakes.
I may be wrong in this area. Maybe you can leave the check valve in there and just tighten it. If that is case I'll leave it in my car.

    Advertisement

Last edited by lg1969; 08-25-2009 at 03:30 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2009, 01:00 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: ohio
Posts: 22
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hey,I received a master from Right Stuff,but of course they sent the wrong one I called Friday and they have no record of sending it.So I will call Monday to see where it is Just for your info,I went ahead and bench bleed the old one,got all the air out of the front,but couldnt get it out of the back resevior.It just keep pumping out air,like there was a leak in side sucking air
HOpe this is the fix.I will let you know when it comes in
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 05:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: ohio
Posts: 22
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hey I been real busy at swap meet and buying stuff for car
I finally got a chance to do some work.I bleed brakes today andthought I was getting somewhere,I had pedal pressure,but come to find out its only if I pump the brakes While pumping and holding the pedal I get pressure But after this I hit the brake and it goes to floor,this is the second master from Right Stuff If I pump it twice it locks the brakes,let off and hit it again and it goes to floor I double checked for leaks and got all the air out.I dont really know,I might try and buy another master cylinder,but my options are running out Sorry so late on reply
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 07:00 PM
carsavvycook's Avatar
My 2 cents worth
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lakeside, CA
Age: 57
Posts: 2,855
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
With the same problem, with 2 different master cylinders, I would suspect something else, as being the problem.

If you are sure you have all of the air out of the system, look to see how much clearance you have between the brake pads, and rotors. The pads should be just touching the rotors, with the brake pedal at rest. You could have gotten some rotors that are too narrow for the calipers, and pads. Resulting in having to press the brake pedal once, to extend the caliper piston, and a second time to apply braking pressure.

This is a very common problem with drum brake applications, when the brake shoes are out of adjustment.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2009, 08:01 AM
Frisco's Avatar
Glad To Be Here
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Canton, North Carolina
Age: 72
Posts: 2,244
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lg1969
Maybe you can leave the check valve in there and just tighten it. If that is case I'll leave it in my car.
If you have replaced the standard brake bleeder valves with "speed" bleeders, you do not have to switch back. After you have bled the system, just fully close the "Speed" bleeder valves and you are done. They have to be "cracked" open about 1/2 turn in order to work.

My experience with them has been marginal. Most brands come with a thread sealant on the threads. The problem is that when they are opened slightly to bleed the brake system, air can and does get back into the system by leaking around the threads. You might wish to try them if you are unable to get a helper when bleeding the brakes, however, I don't recommend them based on my experience.

To the OP (original poster): I answered your I.M. but have posted some additional info here for you to consider. This info is when using GM rear calipers that have the built in parking (emergency) brake. Be sure to read (better yet download) the Parts TechbrakeT1008.pdf file and the residual pressure valves file.

I just re-read your first post.

Since your master and power brake booster is mounted on the firewall, you should not need to have any residual valves in the lines. It will not hurt anything if you do though.

You should still run an adjustable proportioning valve to correctly enable you to balance the brakes from front to rear. The rear brakes should not apply until just after the front brakes do.

The main thing that I see is that you should have the correct pedal ratio IF your car came with power brakes originally. This pedal ratio is important to get the correct amount of pedal travel.

Your primary problem is more than likely the rear caliper adjustment This is of major importance when running the GM rear calipers that have the parking brake as part of the system. It is a internal cam type setup and is not a drum parking brake. It is also a pain to get adjusted. It is explained fairly well in the attached .pdf file below.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	brake bracket.jpg
Views:	52
Size:	56.6 KB
ID:	40675  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf partsTechBrakeT1008.pdf (215.4 KB, 57 views)
File Type: pdf pedalratiopdf.pdf (128.3 KB, 52 views)
File Type: doc residual pressure valves.doc (25.5 KB, 44 views)

Last edited by Frisco; 09-15-2009 at 08:19 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2009, 08:27 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: ohio
Posts: 22
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hey thanks for all the help people,I was out early this morning looking over car and noticed I do have a LEAK! Its not pouring out but it is dripping. Its small but it is there,could this be all the problem why it takes 2 pumps to get a pedal? Its har to believe a small leak like that could all this,but I know its pressurized system and a leak could bled it down,and it taes a pump or 2 get the pressure up.Im I on the right track Im going to get on it and get it fixed and see what happens
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2009, 05:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: ohio
Posts: 22
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Well I fixed the leak and had a pretty good pedal,until I started the car(power brakes) They went to the floor and didnt stop nothing.Put the car in gear and nothing didnt even slow the rotor down I dont know im about at the end,dont really know where to go from here
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2009, 07:55 AM
lg1969's Avatar
Google "Tunnel Ram 406"
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bohemia, L.I.N.Y.
Age: 64
Posts: 1,054
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 21 Times in 18 Posts
I had the same problem. It turn out the rear drum brakes needed to be tighten up a little more. Some how I still had some air in rear brake line. The front disk were doing fine.
Hope this helps.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2009, 06:03 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: ohio
Posts: 22
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ok looks like I have it,I called Right Stuff one more time,he said take the calipers loose and tilt them to where the bleeder screw is slightly tilted up.HOld the calipers up with the pads on the rotors and bleed.I believe I did this once,but I kept on going till I got some pressure built up an air out I started the car put it in gear and hit the brakes and the wheel stopped I think I have it Thanks to all who responded Now I can put this car together!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cold Air vs Ram Air 83SILVRADO Engine 180 05-26-2009 08:59 AM
Chevy Small block, low oil pressure and ticking? Help.. Bowtie_Boy89 Engine 2 02-25-2009 03:52 PM
cross drilled rotors on a 67 chevelle m.docken Suspension - Brakes - Steering 13 02-23-2007 07:26 PM
It's a Mustang II, but what's in it? And a brake problem . . . hduff Suspension - Brakes - Steering 4 11-19-2006 06:00 PM
dash brake light and no pressure? schnitz Suspension - Brakes - Steering 8 11-21-2004 06:52 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.