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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2004, 05:17 PM
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yea i took off all the wheels and checked the brakes.......the passanger rear was doing way more braking then the driver rear..........so i adjusted both rear brakes and checked the front and all have pad left..........so im stuck......
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2004, 12:58 PM
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HEY STEVE: I had a similar problem on my 38 Lafayette street rod. I was getting air in system but could not find leak anywhere. Took it to a brake shop and it turned out that the brass bushing that threads into the cast iron master cylinder was leaking on the threads. It would push fluid out but would also pull air back in on return. The only way that they found it was with soap bubbles after they thought they heard a slight wisper of a sound. Might try putting some dish washing soap bubbles on connectors. Hope this maybe gives you some help.......DAVE
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Old 06-14-2004, 07:16 PM
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brakes

why did you replace the master ?
its got to be the master if it was working and now its not
got to be
maybe the parts guy gave you the wrong one
maybe its new/rebuilt junk(happens to me all the time)
did you have to replace the flare nuts @ the master?
did you double flare them?next we start from scratch it has to be something simple gotta be

im pulling 4 u
sowride66
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Old 06-14-2004, 07:55 PM
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brakes

If you pump the brake pedal, will it build up pressure( gain distance from the floor) I changed a 1 ton dump to vac. boost and duel master cyl. and counting't get it to bleed. I took an oil can pump with a hose slid on it , the other end I put on the bleed port on the left rear wheel and pumped fluid to the master cyl. Then went to the right rear, done the same, moved to the right front, then to the left front. You'll have to keep putting the pump in the master cyl. and pump some fluid (empty it) between wheels. After wards it work great. I Don't know why, but I think it must have had a high spot the system( line) somewhere and I couldn't get the air out because air will rise to the highest point.
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Old 06-14-2004, 08:05 PM
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master cylinder

i replaced the original master cylinder because it failed on me and i rear ended someone........so i call up all the parts stores around me and kragen was the only one with one in stock......rebuilt as far as i know........with those darn brass adapters....im so frustrated by these brakes its rediculous..........
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Old 06-16-2004, 07:43 AM
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napa

try a lifetime warranty one from napa if their available in your ares there usually a good quality its got to be the f@$*ing master they should have given u the fittings w/ the master if not let me know and ill send you a set ok? Ive got 2 or 3 sets in stock after my ordeal. get back to me
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Old 06-16-2004, 10:38 AM
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Another cheap way to make sure 100% you dont have air in the lines is to cut a piece of wood / steel to length and place it between you seat and the brake peddal leaving it depresed at least overnight prolly best for 12-16 hours. Air should find its way to the highest point the master. Remove the cap and the battery terminal go to bed / fridge. Its a thing to try but you prolly have a bad rebuild could be crossbleeding inside. DOes the pedal stay up when its off or does it slowly drop to the floor after resting on the peddal for a while. ( if this stuff was asked already sorry i was just skimming on my lunch break )

Mike
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2004, 12:30 AM
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no the pedal doesnt sink.........but thanks for the suggestion....ive got very few options left untill i replace the darn thing........but the problem is that im a broke college student...same old same old......so i just hope it doesnt head in that direction
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Old 06-17-2004, 10:36 PM
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master

if you bought that master from a store they better warranty it if they don't make a fuss talk to the management don't get arrested but stir the ***** bucket until u get what u need
do the master i think thats your problem
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Old 06-18-2004, 02:01 AM
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i dont know if i have the reciept for the master........so i dont know about making a fuss.....im thinking im gonna go get the brake system checked for free......then if it needs to bled then so be it......but if the master needs replacing........then i guess i better start saving.
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Old 06-18-2004, 08:25 PM
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just for fun, push the pedal down as far as it will go, then let it come up and stab it again really fast and hard. if the pedal stays high and hard, i'd say the cups in the m/c are fubar. you could try having them vacuum bled.... sometimes it is the easiest way to get stubborn air out.
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Old 06-18-2004, 09:23 PM
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date of purcase

how long ago did you buy the master any reputable parts house will make it Good some places like auto zone keep every thing on the computer replace that master brake are very important how much is that part$$$???
slowride66

ps if the master is old and you bleed the system and push the peddle further than its used to going it can screw the seals and bypass
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2004, 02:06 AM
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the master cylinder is about 6 months old now........and i cant find any leaks anywhere and it does stay hard and high when i stab it so i guess i should bleed the SOB again......
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2004, 09:48 AM
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Sounds like you don't have any problems at all, have you test driven the vehicle?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2004, 12:00 PM
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oh yea......its my only means of transportation so i test drive it every day.......its not that its unsafe or anything.....its just that the pedal is way too sensistive so there must be air in it........and the pedal does get hard when i stab at it so i guess im paying for a bleed job.....
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