[brian12c]

My brother in law has a 96 Mitsubishi 3000GT with a clutch issue that I can't quite figure out.

The first time the clutch is pushed in, there is no resistance in the pedal and it will stay on the floor. When I pull it back up by hand, it seems to operate normally and return normally after that. When it is pushed in for the first time in say 15 minutes, the slave cylinder doesn't move. This couldn't be caused by air in the line could it? There is no bleeder on the master cylinder but there is one on the slave cylinder, so should I just try bleeding it? Could the piston seal in the master or slave cylinder be slowly letting fluid leak to the back side of it?

The car was given to him by a guy who replaced the transmission and he said he bled the clutch so Im not sure whats going on.

Thanks, BF

[eloc431962]

It's probably missing the return spring under the dash that connects from the brace to the pedal. JMO


Cole

[Landshark928]

Yes air in the slave can cause this. You need to bleed it. Also there may be air int eh master. The master has no bleed valve. You have to remove the actuating rod from the clutch pedal. Pull it out of the master cylinder plunger under the dash. Then pull out the circlip holding the master piston in. Pull the plunger out just until you hear the rush of air, almost like opening a soda. Then replace master, circlip and actuator rod.

The other thing it could be is a little surface rust on the master cylinder bore if it has sat for a while. A few squirts of WD-40 and several cycles of the pedal will clear that up.

Google bleeding clutch master cylinder for better instruction. There should be a 3000GT specific forum with a FAQ or WIKI with pics.

[matts37chev]

i would start with bleeding

[eloc431962]

I re-read the post and yes i would start with bleeding it also. being it was changed and the guy quote did bleed the clutch so he said and probably did just didn't have much luck with it. JMO Sometimes these can really be a "PITA". IMHO



Cole

[BigRoy1978]

they can be an extreme PITA!

i finally got a two foot bleed line for my dirt car, ran it with the feed line out of the bellhousing, then clamped it to the firewall. Installed one of those radiator drain things on the end of the line. To bleed I screw it right so it will let fluid out, have someone push the pedal, screw it left to tighten it, BAM! hyd thwt brng blead!

[Landshark928]

One thing that works on hard to bleed systems:
With the clutch out, loosen the driver's brake bleed. Attach hose and run to slave cylinder bleed. Loosen slave bleed. Then pump brakes. Pushes brake fluid through slave and back up to reservoir taking stubborn air bubbles with it. It also can be done with just one person. This will also push most of the air in the master out as well.

[eloc431962]

Originally Posted by Landshark928

One thing that works on hard to bleed systems:
With the clutch out, loosen the driver's brake bleed. Attach hose and run to slave cylinder bleed. Loosen slave bleed. Then pump brakes. Pushes brake fluid through slave and back up to reservoir taking stubborn air bubbles with it. It also can be done with just one person. This will also push most of the air in the master out as well.

This is good stuff to know. Seems i alway's have trouble bleeding this type system.


Cole

[BigRoy1978]

Originally Posted by Landshark928

One thing that works on hard to bleed systems:
With the clutch out, loosen the driver's brake bleed. Attach hose and run to slave cylinder bleed. Loosen slave bleed. Then pump brakes. Pushes brake fluid through slave and back up to reservoir taking stubborn air bubbles with it. It also can be done with just one person. This will also push most of the air in the master out as well.

Good idea, but not sure how much i like the idea of pumping unknown condition of brake fluid into my clutch system.....

[Landshark928]

Originally Posted by BigRoy1978

Good idea, but not sure how much i like the idea of pumping unknown condition of brake fluid into my clutch system.....

Bleed the brakes first.