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Old 03-21-2006, 09:53 PM
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no clutch shifting

if you have a hydraulic clutch make sure you never rest your foot on the pedal because its easier to wear the parts out on a hydro clutch than a mechanical. because it takes less pressure to disengage

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Old 03-21-2006, 10:48 PM
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Good point, and it also applies to a mechanical clutch linkage if the return spring is not strong enough to hold up your foot.
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Old 03-22-2006, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolthog
if you have a hydraulic clutch make sure you never rest your foot on the pedal because its easier to wear the parts out on a hydro clutch than a mechanical. because it takes less pressure to disengage
i do that often as city driving and constant stop and go in rush hour, its goten to be a habbit that im gona have to stop.

not sure if i should start a new thread or not but the problem i been having is pretty odd. first time after doing the complete clutch after 3,000 miles, whenever i had the clutch in it would somtimes make a grinding sound wich i thought was the throw out bearing. guys at the shop when i had a exhaust joint welded told me it was the throw out bearing as well. so i swaped it out with a new one.

600 miles later i get a screeching/grinding noise again but it is not sounding the exact same and is not acting the same way. i mostly drive city, odd highway somtimes. i have only hear this noise in 1-3 gears. never happends when the clutch is enaged, only happends when the clutch is disengaged with the pedal in. seems like if im coming to a stop and down shifting and keeping the clutch in it will screech and stop when its between gears and come back again when its put into gear again.

This has been happening for the last 2 weeks or so of driving, some days i wont hear it at all and others like yesterday it will be all day making the noise.

This weekend i am installing The new clutch kit
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Old 03-26-2006, 04:48 AM
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Is it's a car (rwd) or commuter traffic (fwd)? If it's a car or one of the few fwd's to run one check the spigot bush/bearing in the back of the crank. With the clutch disengaged the crank spins around the input shaft, engaged the turn as one - assuming zero clutch slip. Another one to consider, the needle rollers on the mainshaft snout. They don't get loaded as heavily going up the gears as the input and rear cluster bearings but on deccel they cop it, the rear mainshaft bearing can be noisey on deccel - but if it's gone you'll get noise under load in direct (4th).
I shift clutchless and find some synchro boxes (muncie, vw, porsche,aussie m20/21 and 833n/p) are almost as smooth as a road ranger, even my old Range Rover hunting rig (4spd) glides in. All it takes is practice and a GENTLE hand.

Last edited by IanRiordan; 03-26-2006 at 04:49 AM. Reason: eye carnt speel
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