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Gr8 '48 bow tie 11-19-2005 12:06 AM

No more welt.
I have my '48 Chevy Fleetline completely stripped. I will be sending it to a blasting company next week to clean it up so I can do a little body work before I paint it. I have decided to fill the rear fender lines to have a smooth finish rather than the fender welt. The fenders bolt on snuggly, Will I encounter any problems if I fill the joints with body filler and seal them? With bolts and filler in place I don't think the fenders will have any movement to cause cracking. Your opinions please.


adtkart 11-19-2005 03:42 AM

It has been my experience that any body panels that are bolted on, will flex and move. That is why the places that panels go together, and are visible from the outside, have gaps.


poncho62 11-19-2005 06:00 AM

Thats right, the filler will crack. The only way to prevent this is to weld them on......and, you might not want to do that.

MARTINSR 11-19-2005 08:25 AM

Al, let me reiterate what these guys have said in my own style....DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES "BONDO" UP THESE SEAMS!

It WILL crack and in very short order. If you plan on doing a "little" body work this isn't the project for you. Welding these seams up can create a LOT of work. I HIGHLY recommend you forget about it, unless you are ready and willing for a project taking MUCH more time than the "little" body work it sounds like you are picturing. If you are ready for a LOT more time out in the garage, than by all means do it, if that is what you want, it looks cool. But don't think it is a quickie.

Now, let's get back to another point......"Blasting" the body. You aren't talking about sand blasting it are you? You do NOT want to sand blast that body. Soda, plastic, walnut shells, yeah, but not "SAND".


Gr8 '48 bow tie 11-19-2005 08:32 PM

Poncho62, you said that I might not want to weld the joints. If they are welded will that still cause problems? I have seen a few cars that were filled and smoothed which looks really nice, but I have not talked to anyone until now about it. Is there a way to do it without causing myself problems?

MARTINSR, No I will not have it blasted with sand as that would ruin it. I was shown a media that they use, it is a light gray powder like substance somewhat like very fine sand, I can not remember what its called. They were cleaning the blasting room when I visited them. The floor was covered with very fine powder which they said was the remnant of the media. The body work I was referring to is a few dings and dents that I want to do after its blasted. I do however have to cut some rusted areas in the left front floor panel and the trunk floor and door sills. Other than that the car is very solid and straight.


S10xGN 11-20-2005 01:17 PM

Yeah, I'd like to know too. I'm planning on gluing the 'glass fenders on my '47 Ford with 3M body adhesive and then "bondoing" the joint smooth.

Brian, you're always throwing a monkey wrench in my plan of attack! :D


MARTINSR 11-20-2005 05:24 PM

Russ, that is a whole different monkey.:) By bonding it you are in effect, "welding" it. If you do that properly, there is a very good chance of success.

Use a panel bonding adhesive and then try the new "Fiber Tech" byEvercoat for smoothing the two together. It has short and long strand Kevlar strands. I spent a lot of time talking with the guys from the tech department at Evercoat at NACE. Heard some amazing stuff about Fiber Tech.

Al, if you weld the whole seam you can smooth them out with plastic filler. I would use a reinforced filler like Evercoat Kitty hair, Everglass or Fiber Tech. But you better be ready with this project. I is not at much work of course, but think of it as chopping the top. It is a LOT more work than some little dents and some small patch panels.

Plan on mig welding it, gas back in that corner will produce a LOT of heat on the quarter. Even miging you will likely get some warpage you will need to deal with.


Gr8 '48 bow tie 11-20-2005 10:23 PM

Thanks MARTINSR, I will look into the panel bonding instead. I had not thought of that, although I will have to learn how its done. Is it applied like fiberglass ie: rosin and fiber?


MARTINSR 11-21-2005 12:11 AM

Hold on here buckaroo, I told Russ to use the panel bonding adhesive because he has glass fenders and that is the ONLY way you could do it.

I was not saying for you to use the adhesive. HOWEVER, now that you bring it up, heck, yeah I could see that.


baddbob 11-21-2005 07:11 AM

I agree! Panel adhesive would be an excellent way to attach them fenders then blend them in with filler.

S10xGN 11-21-2005 12:45 PM

1 Attachment(s)
A bud uses the 3M panel adhesive and he's hooked. He stuck a bunch of (steel) pieces together on his show quality '66 Nova. Because of how nice it works he's pretty much forgone his MIG, saving it for chassis work.


baddbob 11-21-2005 05:53 PM

BondoKing 11-21-2005 06:54 PM

Nice link Bob

adtkart 11-23-2005 03:38 AM

Thanks BOB. One of the things I really like about this site is that there is always soneone here that knows where the site is that I need. LOL


Mrwood 11-23-2005 04:15 AM

No more welt.
I will not use the welt on my 48 fleetline, i just bolted the rear fenders on and then worked them so they fit tight against the body. This got rid of the gap i had, and will look good without the welt. Plus i can take them off if they ever get hit. But dont just bondo the gap, as others have said it wont last long.

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