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Old 07-27-2014, 09:25 PM
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No Pedal

I'm having trouble with the brakes on my 1952 Ford F6. The pedal goes to the floor with no resistance. I rebuild the master cylinder but continue to have the same issue.
It is a dump truck with a brake booster mounted behind the master and a line running from it to the proportioning valve which is mounted directly to the master.. There are four more lines running from the proportioning valve to each wheel.
I haven't been able to bleed the lines because they are frozen/rusted and I don't want to snap them off. But even if the wheel cylinders were bad I'd see a leak which I don't. After many pedal pumps the fluid level does not change. Any suggestions or ideas that would help?

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Old 07-27-2014, 11:34 PM
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Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before re-installing it? Sometimes they won't work properly if the master isn't bench bled
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:34 PM
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. Put penetrating oil on all the line nuts and bleeder screws in case you have to remove them at some point... oil them yearly thereafter with thick oil...

. You have compressible air in the system... bleed it at the bleeder screws on the calipers/wheel cylinders... don't think a proportioning valve was stock on this old of vehicle so assume it was added later... without a prop valve usually start in rear, but with prop valve usually works best to start in front to get the slider in the prop valve in the proper position....

. With two people, one pushes brake pedal down and holds it down while you crack a bleeder valve open to let air bubbles out, close valve, let pedal up, crack valve again, push pedal back down again, close valve, repeat till no more air comes out... repeat on all 4 bleeders... make sure master cylinder reservoirs stay full of brake fluid while bleeding or more air gets in, have to start over...

. One person is similar but need a clear plastic hose on the bleeder, end of hose in brake fluid in a container, open bleeder, push pedal down and hold down with wood block to seat, close bleeder valve, let pedal up and back down, repeat till no air bubbles in clear hose...
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:24 AM
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No Brakes

I didn't bench bleed. I normally would but the F6 master has the proportioning valve mounted directly to it with the 5 outlets. I couldn't think of a way to do a proper bleed.
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:06 PM
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. "5 outlets"? 5 wheels on this vehicle? Or is one hole for a switch, sender, or sensor of some sort?

. Just put a clear hose from each outlet returning back into the reservoirs and pump the master until all air bubbles gone...
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:21 PM
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Yup, 5 outlets. It's a dump truck so 2 of the outlets go to a brake"booster" that assists the brakes when it has a full box. Other 3 are split 1 for each front whelk and 1 to the back wheels. I got the master bled but still have no pedal. I'm gonna try a siphoning style of bleeder and see what happens.
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:29 PM
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. I'd be curious to know how the two parallel rear systems avoid losing brake fluid pressure to each other...
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:04 PM
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You will need to bleed the entire system. A little heat , penetrating oil and patience will get the bleeders open. I would start by soaking the bleeders with pb blaster overnight. Get a good tight fitting wrench. Heat the fittings a little and try them. Repeat until they crack free. If they are rotted badly you can try Vice grips but put a drill bit in the hole before you lock the vice grips on to keep from crushing the bleeder. I have had excellent luck taking out some of the really rusted bleeders. Patience and a tight grip are the key. I also usually tap on the caliper / cylinder with a light hammer, the vibration will help the oil work its way in.
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Old 07-29-2014, 04:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23 View Post
Get a good tight fitting wrench. Heat the fittings a little and try them. Repeat until they crack free.
. Yeah, I forgot to mention, proper fitting 6-point socket... SAE, British Standard, or Metric, whichever fits closer...
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