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Old 08-25-2010, 09:19 PM
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No Power on Hills? 4.3 S-10

I have a 1988 chevy s10 that originally had a 4 cil. Engine and the previous owner had swaped it out for a 4.3 v6. I got rid of the throttle body carb ,original intake and old distributer. It now has a Holley 4 brl. Edelbrock intake and a vacuum advance distributer after clipping allot of wires and getting rid of all the unneeded junk it is running nice and smooth BUTÖ It has almost no power when going up hills (Iím in Tennessee) so this is a big issue I pull up a mountain going to work every day. Also I canít get the passing gear to kick in. I have the link hooked up to the carb that goes to the transmission and the truck changes gears nice and smooth but no passing gear or the hill pulling power I need It does fine on flat roads but getting on the highway 0-60 sucks.

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Old 08-25-2010, 11:23 PM
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Jeffs10

I don't think this is a th350 transmission. I think you have a early 700r. They do not have a "kick down cable" they use a Throttle Valve cable. It looks the same but works all together differently.

With the throttle body injection the cable is attached to the throttle and this cable changes the oil pressure in the transmission so it changes gears.

Originally you would release the cable at the throttle body and pull it back from its lock. Then the gas pedal in the truck is depressed ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR. The cable would ratchet up because it is pulled back into position. Where it stops is the place that gives the correct pressures in the transmission in relationship to the throttle position.

When you changed everything to the carb the cable is close to the correct adjustment but not right on the money. You could pull the cable one or two notches in either direction then test drive and see what happens.

Good Luck
Scholman(retired)
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Old 08-26-2010, 07:33 AM
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I agree, i think you are getting stuck in a higher gear and it won't kick down into a lower gear for more power. You need to adjust the kick down cable or whatever you have.
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Old 08-26-2010, 07:36 AM
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More on setting up the correct carb TV linkage geometry for a TH700R4 trans:

http://www.jakesperformance.com/TV_C...etup_Info.html

Also, more info/links: Post #7.

Last edited by cobalt327; 08-26-2010 at 07:43 AM. Reason: Add link.
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Old 08-26-2010, 08:57 PM
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Thanx from Tennessee.

Thank you all. I think I get it. I had tried to loosen the link and it wouldn't shift at all. I tightened it and it was jumping into the gears so I need to find a happy med.
When it had the TBI carb it shifted fine and had power. I was shocked that I spent all that cash on Holley and Edelbrock stuff and lost power.
I have the weekend to play with it.
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:14 PM
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Since this has been going on it could have also caused bigger problems. Pull the stick, sniff the fluid and check it`s color, if it`s black and it smells burned the tranny is on it`s way out. The Tranny uses a lock up torque converter, without the computers aide it no longer locks up, the converter is not made to be efficient because it doesn`t have to since it`s a lock up design. The factory cooler isn`t adequete to cool the tranny without the lock up function so what results is the tranny getting cooked. Heat is the number 1 killer of automatics, if the tranny is okay, you can install a lock up kit that`s avalible from Summit racing. I`d also install a aftermarket tranny cooler.
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