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Old 12-01-2012, 11:28 AM
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No power to starter

I just finished putting together a 1979 GMC Sierra. I put a 350 chevy 4 bolt main.I' ve been having starter problems when truck gets hot, starter drags and sounds like dead battery and wont start. I put a new starter in and no I get nothing! Almost like no power to starter. I put it in just like old one came out. Doesnt click, drag or anything! What could this be. I thought it could be a fuse but cant read the fuse panel as its to old , so I dont know which fuse to pull. Any help is appreciated. Howard Brown
Grants Pass, Ore.

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Old 12-01-2012, 03:07 PM
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Just use a test light, Turn the key to the on position and make sure both sides of all the fuses are hot. That may not be the problem buts its where I would start.

Mark.
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Old 12-01-2012, 03:38 PM
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Starter

Im a barnyard mechanic. I unhookeed the wire tothe starter side and have no spark. I am now going to try a new switch. Could I be on the right path?
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:43 PM
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Here's how i'd trouble shoot....

If it's a 4 studed solenoid make you you didn't switch the "I" wire and the "S" wires on the solenoid. "S" wire should be purple and the "I" wire should be white or off yellow

If it's a 3 studed solenoid.....

a. Use a screw driver and jump across the battery cable stud on the starter and the actual motor stud on the starter.
If the starter doesn't spin, your battery cable is bad or the battery is dead.

b. If the battery is charged...... make sure the neg cable is connected and you have a good ground, then run a jumper cable from the pos post on the battery and touch the other end to the battery cable stud on the starter.

c. if it doesn't spin hook the other jumper cable to the neg post on the battery and connect the other end to one of the starter bolts....... touch the pos jumper cable to the battery stud on the starter. If it doesn't spin, you have a bad starter.

If the starter spins in test a. above but doesn't engage with the key switch........
Run a temp jumper from the pos post on the battery to the small "S" stud on the starter...... if the starter spins the wire from your ing switch has a fault. If the starter doen't spin with the jumper..... you have a fault in the solenoid.
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:31 PM
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No power to starter

I Borrowed a test light snd have power from the battery. But when I touched the wire going to the "S" side of the solonoid, I get no light. I even had my wife hold it in the start pos. and no light. How do I check from the firewall side of the fuse panel? I tried sticking the test light on beside the fuses, but no light! The fuse panel is not legible as to witch fuse is the starter,ignition. Thanks
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:31 PM
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I don't think the purple wire goes thru the fuse box. I think it goes from the ing switch to the Netural Safety Switch (NSS) then to the "S" stud on the starter.

The hot feed to the ing switch is protected by a fuseable link, if I remember right.

Did you try putting 12v to the "S" stud on the starter?....... If it turns over, then it's either....

The wire from the NSS or the ing switch or
The NSS or
The Ing switch

You check the NSS by unhooking the wires from it, then jumper the two wires, they should be purple and green.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:55 AM
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If the wiring has not been changed from original, the troubleshooting is relatively simple. This assumes you have power to the rest of the truck

- Large terminal on starter always has 12 volts, since the positive battery cable runs directly to it. Verify that the connection is tight and check that you do have 12 volts there. The solenoid is mounted on the starter, so there is no separate solenoid to check (like on a Ford).
- S terminal on the starter should have a purple wire on it. If you use a jumper between this terminal and the large lug, the starter should kick over (make sure vehicle is in neutral). If this test does not work, then the starter or solenoid is not working and you have to repair or replace it.
- The purple wire runs to the back of the engine, through a metal protective tube bolted to the back of the engine, and up to the starter switch. With the ignition turned to the start position this wire should have 12 volts. If it doesn't you probably have a broken wire or a badly adjusted NSS. If you replaced an engine you might have cut the wire, or the metal tube may be too close to the exhaust and the wire is burned.
- The NSS is up under the dash on top of the column. You can unplug it and use a short wire with spade terminals on each end to make a jumper wire. If jumpering the NSS gets you 12 volts on the S terminal with ignition in start, then you just need to adjust the NSS so it works in park and neutral.
The NSS can get out of adjustment if you did anything that changed the body height of the truck relative to the transmission. For example, if you installed new transmission mounts or new body mounts.

Bruce

Last edited by 75gmck25; 12-03-2012 at 04:18 AM.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:19 AM
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Check the trans neutral switch with a volt meter or you may have a burned fusible link. Those are the things I would check. These two items gave me a lot of problems on the last starter issue I debugged.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:15 PM
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Roger? Your post makes no sense.
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:44 PM
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That circuit diagram might be useful if it applied to your truck; however, a 1979 GMC would have an internally regulated 10si alternator. With an internal regulator it does not use the horn relay as a connection point, and it does not have an external regulator.

There are also fusible links in the power wires that run to the starter, but a blown fusible link will cause complete loss of power to the fuse box, not just a no-start condition. You did not mention any other 12 volts items that were not working.

Bruce
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:27 PM
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The purple wire that runs to the starter does not have a fuseable link in it, nor does cable that runs from the pos post on the battery to the starter. The fuseable link should be down stream from the main feed from the alt where it ties into the rest of the elec system....... Now I've never looked at the wire dia for your specific truck..... but that's how most all other GM veh are wired.

As GMC stated, if you lost the fuseable link the battery would soon die and you would lose all pwr to the rest of the veh
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EOD Guy View Post
Roger? Your post makes no sense.
Ayuh,... That's because he's nothin' but a Spammer...

Didn't ya notice the illegal link in his signature,..??
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:21 AM
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[QUOTE=EOD Guy;1618687]Roger? Your post makes no sense.[/QUOT

I forgot this forum is not for the echange of information or experiences. If you don't like my comments get over it.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bondo View Post
Ayuh,... That's because he's nothin' but a Spammer...

Didn't ya notice the illegal link in his signature,..??
Spammer, no way in hell! Turn me into the mod if that's your thing.
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:10 PM
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Beertracker...."I forgot this forum is not for the echange of information or experiences. If you don't like my comments get over it."

Don't know if you are Roger or not....that being said, if you type in a bunch of dribble that makes no sense...... I'll let you know everytime because this forum is for the exchange of info and opinions not useless dribble that made absolutely no sense.
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