no rear brakes
 

ok heres my setup 78 camaro drag car manuel brake swap with a ford 9in rear end I used a 72 corvett manuel MC when trying to bleed rear brakes pedal gets hard but I get just a drop or two of fluid out of the bleeder now i cant get one of the rear drums off I unhooked all lines to that brake and it still want bleed off any help would be great

You may have to back off (unscrew) the manual adjusters to get the drums off.

Russ

A couple of things... Is the MC from the corvette for drum or disc brakes? It makes a difference. If your running drum brakes in the rear and disc up front, you need the same for a MC because there is a big difference in brake pressure between drum and disc brakes. Secondly, try a mallet and hit the drum on the sides, not so hard that you break the drum but enough to dislodge whatever is frozen.

Sounds like the proportioning valve to me.

Brian

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...PropValve1.jpg

Agreed....with front disk and rear drums, you probably have a combination valve....it needs to be recentered before it will bleed. Once you get it recentered, you will have to hold the pin on the passengers side of the valve in, or use a combination valve center stop that screws into the top of the valve where the brake warning light relay attaches....

you have to back off the adjuster to get the drum off. when you do you, you will find the wheel cyl seized. if both wheels are tight, it will be a rear break hose. good luck.

If you unhooked lines and still won't bleed Brian has given you the correct advice. Proportioning valve probably needs to be centered.

you do not need to center the valve to bleed brakes, it only needs centered for proper pressure, which it will do its self when it is bled out properly.

As I understand it the valve is designed with a check valve that will travel to the end of the passage and block off the line in case of a broken brake line or blown wheel cylinder. Sometimes it will stick and until it is recentered no fluid will flow to that part of the brake system. Hence you will get no fluid flow even with brake line loosened.

the only reason the valve trips, is to turn on the brake light on the dash. it does not shut off fluid. you will find when you blow a brake line, and you pump it enough, one side or the other of the master will go dry, depending on what line blew [ front or back ]. this is why they use double master cyls, so you still have some brakes. single cyls were outlawed, because when you blew a line, you had no brakes at all. not trying to be a smart ***, this is just the way it works.

Go to. http://www.classicperform.com/TechBo...t.htm#testprop

See section "Test combination/proportioning valve"

it still want bleed off any help would be greathttp://www.infoocean.info/avatar4.jpg

just a question, did you just put the manual master cyl on. i assume the car was originally power brakes, if so , did you change the push rod. best way to check push rod adjustment, with master cyl empty, look down into the ports, if they are blocked off, the rod is out of adjustment. you should also take the lines off the master, when you get it bleeding properly there, then it should be good at the back. just saves alot of trips back and forth. keep us posted.

Now I'm confused, who exactly has the problem? "rreistino" was the original poster, but some guy called "spokes101" pipes up saying "it still want bleed off". So do we have two peeps working on the same car or is this one guy with two handles? And neither poster has stated what they've actually tried doing so far...

Russ

Spokes101 is copying and pasting entries to threads all over the forum. None of them have anything to do with the subject at hand. Just ignore that post.