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Old 07-15-2007, 12:05 AM
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No Running & Dash Lights

I know I've had this same problem a couple years back & it ended up being something simple (of course after hours of trouble shooting). However, I cannot remember what the solution was.

The instrument & running lights on my 76 Blazer would not turn on a couple days ago then they were fine. Then yesterday they would not turn on. This evening they were working until I turned on my headlights. Then the running lights went out. I've been playing around with it for a couple hours now with little to no progress.

I tried another head/running light switch....no go.

There is no power to the fuse that supports the running lights either.

Any suggestions?

I'

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Old 07-15-2007, 05:39 AM
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Doc here,


Does your fuse buss look like this one?



Or is yours different than this?

Doc
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Old 07-15-2007, 01:05 PM
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It looks pretty close to that one. Lets try inserting a pic:

[IMG][/IMG]

I'm going to stop by the Zone and pick up a new switch for kicks.

Cool, it worked....The pic, that is.

According to the wiring diagram, the fuse is after the switch for the inst cluster lights.

Last edited by 70bird; 07-15-2007 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 07-15-2007, 04:08 PM
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Doc here,

FIRST of all, ....

EVERY Fuse in there and its socket is corroded, with the exception of the INST LAMPS and RADIO...

Remove the battery cable, remove the fuses, and with a small brass welding brush (toothbrush size) and electrical clean and BURNISH every Socket..It's a wonder ANYTHING works!

NEXT, and cheap enough just install ALL new fuses..not worth cleaning and testing one by one..

NEXT, the RED wire going to FUS. 15 A appears to be insulation crimped, AND offset from the terminal on the buss..Cut it PROPERLY install another, and be sure it seats all the way in the terminal and "Locks"

The same applies to the two wires to it's left..they are not "Seating properly"...

This will Shut down a Buss support bar..

NEXT< hook up the battery, turn the key "On", with a meter, go down each fuse, one by one on BOTH sides..

You should have power at both sides of the fuse..IF not, you have an open buss bar, or support wire soldered to it..for this, the panel must be removed and repaired.

IF you only have power at one side, the fuse is open OR you have a back feed of power (the hot side) and a melted buss bar (the dead side) or support wire. Same as above to repair..

If you have power at both sides, move on..the problem is at the next stop..

Doc
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Old 07-15-2007, 05:27 PM
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Is this "electrical clean" a product?

I have attempted to clean the sockets before with little success. I have not been able to get any sort of cleaning apparatus into the socket. Fixes before were done by taking a scribe and scraping some of the corrosion off. If you look near the "accy" socket you can actually see a short piece of copper wire inserted in between the fuse and socket. It's been like that for probably four years.

I would like to do the job right but have not been able to figure out a good way to clean the sockets. I'll stop by home depot and see if they have something that will work with my wana-be Drimmel tool.
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Old 07-15-2007, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70bird
Is this "electrical clean" a product?

I have attempted to clean the sockets before with little success. I have not been able to get any sort of cleaning apparatus into the socket. Fixes before were done by taking a scribe and scraping some of the corrosion off. If you look near the "accy" socket you can actually see a short piece of copper wire inserted in between the fuse and socket. It's been like that for probably four years.

I would like to do the job right but have not been able to figure out a good way to clean the sockets. I'll stop by home depot and see if they have something that will work with my wana-be Drimmel tool.

Doc here,

The product is actually called "Electric Clean" and it ain't cheap..like $16.00 fazools for a small can..(the tree huggers would rather we not use it..) You SHOULD be able to get it at Rat Shak.

To burnish, go to an auto zommie or Kragens, and in tools, welding stuff, (or even ACE Hardware should have these) get a Small BRASS bristled Brush..fits in the palm of your hand..That should fit in there..If it won't work for you, get a bore cleaning brush from a Pistol or rifle cleaning kit..and use That..

Spray it down good until it drips..then have at it with the brush..spray as needed after..that SHOULD clean it squeaky clean..If the bore brush won't fit up in there last shot is a hobby exacto knife..or real tiny sandpaper

BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!! the brushes are metal!

Doc
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Old 07-15-2007, 08:31 PM
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I tried the new switch with no affect (though I didn't think that was the prob).

Since you mentioned the corrosion issue, that rang a bell. I think that was the problem last time.

Time for some cleaning.
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:12 PM
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The corrosion was the problem. I used a small screw driver to scrape the sockets. I tried to dig into each on all contact areas.

Even though the test light showed continuity on each side of the fuse, there still was not enough contact for adequate flow to power the lights.

Thanks for the help (again) Doc.
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