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Old 07-29-2011, 09:44 PM
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no spark Mopar truck 1982

Hey, does anyone know if/how to check an ignition control module, Mopar 4 pin?

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Old 07-31-2011, 08:25 AM
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Check the resistance of the pickup coil, then check to be sure the module has power to it when on and starting. Ohm the coil primary and secondary to make sure it is OK.Be sure its grounded.If that all checks out put on a module.
Those modules had problems with the connector pins coming loose from the soldered joint inside the unit itself, and would cause no start, intermittent start, stalling while driving type issues.
You can test the module by taking it to napa, they used to have testers for stuff like that.Otherwise the procedure I have outlined will lead you to the trouble,and determine if the module is bad or not.
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Old 07-31-2011, 07:59 PM
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The pick up coil is good, the ballast resistor is good. I did some testing and found no power at pin 1 on the module. There is a big splice buried in the harness with blue wires (7) all crimped together. One goes to the run side of the ballast, one goes to pin 1 on the module and two go to accessory plugs. The others head upstream, towards and across the firewall, and where they end, I havent found yet. All of these should be a key on hot in the start and run position but I havent found the source yet. The library is closed today and alldata and shop manuels cost $$. Im doin buddy dues so trying to keep it cheap.
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Old 07-31-2011, 08:13 PM
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They all go to the ignition switch and from there head towards the battery.
Could be a fusible link burnt. Should be easy to find. Go to the fusible links and pull on them like you are trying to stretch them, being wire doesnt stretch but the insulation will if one does strech, keep pulling and the insulation will pull in half, revealing the burnt link.
Keep in mind if all the links are ok,It could be the ignition switch, or the bulkhead connector on the firewall has a burnt connection. I would check the links first.
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Old 07-31-2011, 08:47 PM
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Ive checked all of the fusible links (puncture test) after the links themselves and they all have 12 volts. 1 thought, there is a blue wire on one of the tabs on the alternator, is this the power feed for the circuit?? 2 thought, I wacked the relay on the fender well near the battery a few times and scraped the terminals and it seemed to start a little, but would not run in the run position. Isnt this relay for the start circuit only? Btw, this an 86 not an 82 as previously mentioned, which really shouldnt matter.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:33 PM
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I found an old (vintage 1980) Direct Connection Bulletin on installing and trouble shooting electronic ignitions. Attached the pages I thought would help based on your description of the problem.

Seems to me if there is no power to pin 1, I'd be looking at the voltage regulator and alternator field to see if there is power there. If so, it is a wiring issue to the ignition. If not, keep going back to the key. If I remember, there is a connector in the harness that goes up the column to the key switch that used to burn up the contact on these things. May want to check that also.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:38 PM
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I could only figure out how to put 5 attachments, and found a couple more sheets that may help.
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:08 PM
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Many thanks to mmopar0521 and latech. I will do some more checking tomorrow after it stops raining. Thank you both. Hopefully i can post the solution.
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:38 PM
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Well, round two..... I have key on 12 volts to everything. The field tab on the alternator, the v reg., and its all being fed from the ign. switch. And it includes the #1 pin on the module. Turns out my meter is a p.o.s. I have voltage and continuity to all parts involved in there respective places.
What I dont have is a running truck, and out of nine parts stores, no one can test this module (which Im really leaning towards). The owner said it was replaced recently which I believe, but things like this can go bad rather quickly due to the very high quality standards that our (ehem) far eastern neighbors instill into every product they produce.
Any thoughts before I splurge for a new one???
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:29 PM
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Voltage at the coil and module, ballast resistor elements both good (if it is a dual), coil good, good reluctor in distributor and acceptable gap between pickup and reluctor in distributor, continuity in all of the wires between module coil/distributor. I think you hit them all.

Sounds like all that is left is the box. For what it's worth, Summit Racing carries the Mopar Performance box for around $40. I've had good luck with the MP stuff.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4120505/
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Old 08-02-2011, 05:50 PM
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I am with mnmopar on this one. You have done your homework on the diagnostic end, now its up to choosing a quality replacement.
I like it when some one who posts with a problem does the complete diagnostic work out /routine to get to a solid result as you did.
So many times you read a persons post and they say they have spark or fuel pressure... blah blah blah yada yada only to find out they were assuming not actually testing/verifying.Wasting others time and confusing the issue. Glad to hear you nailed it down.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:13 PM
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Done deal friends, now on to my next adventure. Thanx for all the help.
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