no spark at sparkplug
:mad: :mad: :confused:
1967 CHEVY PICKUP 350 V8; HOLLY DOULBE PUMPER MOD 4776 650 CFM NEW CARB 1000 MILES AGO. A Mallory 8-mm silicone suppression ignition wires. Truck has rear jets stuck open used my screwdriver handle and hit rear bow, which made the fuel flow, stop. Engine ran good after that.
I noticed rust on spark plugs so I R&R plugs Ac delco R455ts with Champion 25 RV17YC .035.
I ALSO PUT DIELECTRIC CONNECTOR GREASE 100% SILICONE on the plugs inside the connector caps. Now the Engine will not start. Battery is fine. Gas flow is good. So I have cleaned plugs and connectors with denatured alcohol pure and also with QD electronic cleaner than I blew out connectors with air. I have removed the wire from a spark plug and turned over the engine no spark jumping from the cap to plug. What should I do next! The mechanic that worked on the vehicle has left the island and the mechanic I took the truck to recently thinks I need to rebuild the carburetor. The distributor has the coil inside.
Doc here :pimp:
Check the wire on the distributor that is marked "BATT" for 12 volts with the key on...If it is missing back track the wire for a burned line or blown fuse...
To test, just run a jumper from the Battery to the "BATT" wire on the distributor, If it runs, then it's along that wire...
If it won't Start, then look at the Coil, Have the ECM tested at the parts store, or Magnetic pickup, any of these will stop spark.
Photo: HEI Distributor
Ok, I have check the voltage at Batt terminal on the distributor
12 volts DC. So can I check resistence between batt. and tech terminal with the dist. cap on with the plug wires connected? :confused:
Doc here :pimp:
If you have 12 volts at the batt terminal on the HEI, Then no further testing is required there.
Test the ECM, Go to the local Parts store and have them test it for you.
If that's good, then the next step would be the Magnetic pickup.
If all else fails, replace the coil.
OK DOC !
You have been right on. Went to parts store they check out my ignition module, BAD so replaced coil, distributor cap, rotor, module.
It stared right up. However my back jets are still dropping fuel at idle Can I adjust the rear floats wet?
KEWL!! Good to hear your running again!
On the Floats, I'm not really a Holley guy, so I can't help ya there, there is an adjustment for that, but not sure if it's external or not, maybe somebody else will know.
yes u can adjust float level with car running, first start engine, second losten the screw with the jam nut on the top of the rear float bowl, third unscrew sight plug on side of float bowl (brass flat head screw) then play with adjusting screw and lock nut (losen nut then u can mess with the float level, tighten the screw and the float goes up, losten the screw and the float goes down if i remember properly) do this untill gasoline just dribbles out of the sight plug hole then tighten lock nut and replace sight plug
|All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:01 AM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.