No Starting Chevy V-6 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2012, 09:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Alaska
Posts: 36
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
No Starting Chevy V-6

Have a 89 Chevy 1/2 ton 2-wheel drive, with 4-speed trans., that just quit running today. Back in my day, if it got gas and spark, it would run. Well, it has spark and I sprayed starting fluid into carb and got no fire. It has TBI. So I think the fluid was pulled into carb. It was running and just quit. As we were doing about 40 MPH we droped it into 4th and it started again. Went on down to the store and shut it off. Came back out and it wouldn't start. We wern't far from home , so I went and got another truck to tow it with. While towing my brother tried it in geer again and it started. I was following him home when it started to die again. I noticed a gray'esh smoke comming out the exhaust. It also smelled like gas, but we couldn't find any leaks any where. Exhaust pipes look very black and sootey. But, no fire. Has spark and sprayed strating fluid in carb, no fire. Anyone have any ideas on this?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2012, 09:40 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: eastcoast
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Uh Oh !

Not too much has changed since those days you remember...LOL You need 4 things for all engines to run. Spark, Fuel, Air and Timing. After the van cools down see if it will start on its own {no starting fld}. If it does you may want to ck. your cat. converter. If it's defective it could be closing up when hot not letting the exhaust out, creating 'pressure' in the engine. If it still won't start pull a spark plug or 2 and see what they look like. Sometimes the plugs are forgotten about these days and are left in an engine way too long. The gap opens up on them, or they get carboned over and they can't fire as they should. I can tell you after 40 yrs. working on these things that if you have spark all the way threw the spark plug, and you shoot some starting fluid into the intake system and it reaches the combustion chamber it will run. <assumeing the valve timing is correct> It may sputter and surely cut off, but it will run. Too much gas usually makes black smoke, but I have seen the fuel pressure regulator go bad and injectors will then put way too much fuel into the combustion chambers, or the small vacuum line will suck fuel into the engine, via the intake. Causeing the engine to flood while running. I can't go back and read your intial statement but did you say your van has a throttle body or injectors ? If it has a TB, look at the TB while your cranking the engine. Make sure you have nothing more than a fine mist of fuel while cranking. Anything more and may have a bad TB unit. Hope this helps !!
If not write back and let me know what all you checked and how ! Sounds like it could be a simple repair. The CID, last tune up mileage, would be helpfull.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2012, 02:31 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Alaska
Posts: 36
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Update on "No Starting Chevy V-6"

Well guys, I think I got the title wrong on this one. Should have been "Dieing Chevy V-6 After It Gets Almost Warmed Up" What it's doing is starting right up when it's cold or cool. When I let it run awhile, it will load up (seems to me) and die when it is about 180 degrees. 195 is normal. Got an aneliser (sp) that reads "Trouble Codes." One time it said it had two codes. 1 #15, "Cooling Sinser To Low" and a #32 "EGR Failure." I disconnected the battery, to reset the everything on the truck computer and retested twice more and both times it just says #15 "Cooling Sinser To Low." Each time, I have to let it cool down to get it started again. Have been talking to a few friends and people at the parts houses and I got "MAP", "EGR Valve and Selenoid Module", "Cat. Converter" and the "ICM" (Ingnition Control Module" on the distributer, is bad. I don't want to just get a new one of each, although I will if needed, unless I have to. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2012, 05:45 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Corinth, MS
Posts: 601
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 28 Times in 27 Posts
You didn't say what year it is, but you might try checking the fuel pressure cold, and hot. I've seen fuel pressure regulators that drop pressure after it gets hot.
Its been my experience that an ignition module is either good or bad, not intermitten.
FWIW
ssmonty
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2012, 06:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: eastcoast
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Coolant sensor

You have 2 coolant sensors. One for the guage, and the other for the ECM {computer}. Sounds to me like the one for your ECM has went bad. Your computer is thinking the engine is too cold even when it is at operation temp. Just about everything is controlled by your ECM at some point. Your ECM is giving you the code that the sensor is bad. Replace it !
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2012, 09:16 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Alaska
Posts: 36
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sorry for being late

Just wanted to say sorry to all that sent me help with my motor problems. Fixed the problem and got to doing other things and forgot to let everyone know it was fixed. Thanks to their help. It turned out to be my "temp sensor unit" that went bad. The thing that threw me was every time I put the engine "Analyzer" on the truck, it said the temp. sensor was to low. Well to me, that meant the engine temp. sending unit was bad. Well like you guys said, the engine temp. sending unit is different from the engine temp. sensor. I guessI am just to old to really understand what all the engine sensors have to do with the running of the engine. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks to all that tried to help.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2012, 05:27 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,217
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 203
Thanked 258 Times in 240 Posts
Isnt that amazing. And all the parts store mechanics were spending ALL that money with there "diagnosis"
I see it all the time. Dudes car breaks, he asks the parts guy, his buddys his Dad his mom his girfriend. Puts on all the parts they suggests, trying to save a buck. Spending all the while a gazillion dollars and not fixing the problem. Then take it to a mechanic. Had one yesterday.
Dude brings car. Put on coil pack,Ignition module, plugs, wires, fuel filter, even CUTS OFF the catalytic converter. Couldnt get it to run on all 6.
Brought it in, located 2 cylinders not firing. Verified spark and injector pulse.Did compression test, pulled valve cover. Discovered that last 4 rockers in the engine werent moving. Winds up being a BROKEN CAM.
Then dude says he wants to take all the NEW parts back off the motor and return them to the parts store.
He should have ASKED a mechanic first.... Like you did.
__________________
Fact is stranger than Fiction
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1929 Chevy 6 volt starting ikatmando Hotrodding Basics 2 11-17-2011 11:42 PM
Starting a 350 Chevy after 12 years? Jeff J Engine 10 08-03-2010 04:40 PM
starting on my first sectioning my chevy 53chevy1 Body - Exterior 4 06-11-2009 04:22 PM
Just starting my first project (48 Chevy Coupe) larself Hotrodding Basics 4 12-27-2005 05:57 PM
350 Chevy Starting question ThumperCR Engine 5 10-31-2004 10:37 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.