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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2010, 08:32 PM
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GM roller tappets tend to get trash in them after high mileage and there has been several different cases where I solved a ticking lifter with seafoam. Hydraulic lifters wear out? sure they do, after very high mileage, it`s hard to wear them out as they have very few moving parts and the internal pieces are always in a bed of oil. When I got my chevy truck it`s 4.3 had over 260,000 miles on it, it too had a few ticking lifters, seafoam took care of that issue. When I did the rebuild I replaced the lifters with some crane roller tappets I had laying around and used the ones out of the 4.3 in a friends engine and they are still working just fine. Detergents in oil won`t keep trash out of it regardless, just like the air cleaner, no matter how good it is and no matter how many prefilters it has, dirt will still find a way in. I`m not saying seafoam will cure a lifter that has wear or damage internally, but if it`s the usual trash that collects in them seafoam takes care of it.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2010, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
GM roller tappets tend to get trash in them after high mileage and there has been several different cases where I solved a ticking lifter with seafoam. Hydraulic lifters wear out? sure they do, after very high mileage, it`s hard to wear them out as they have very few moving parts and the internal pieces are always in a bed of oil. When I got my chevy truck it`s 4.3 had over 260,000 miles on it, it too had a few ticking lifters, seafoam took care of that issue. When I did the rebuild I replaced the lifters with some crane roller tappets I had laying around and used the ones out of the 4.3 in a friends engine and they are still working just fine. Detergents in oil won`t keep trash out of it regardless, just like the air cleaner, no matter how good it is and no matter how many prefilters it has, dirt will still find a way in. I`m not saying seafoam will cure a lifter that has wear or damage internally, but if it`s the usual trash that collects in them seafoam takes care of it.
You got that right, I never heard of sea foam, but I'm sure it does what you say it does. I would do that then change the oil to synthetic after the thorough cleaning provided by sea foam. I'm recommending to the guy that proposed this issue that he do what is necessary to quiet them down, hell they bother me, and I cant even hear em.lol
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Old 02-19-2010, 07:49 AM
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double,
his motor has 130k miles on it in a heavy vehicle!!!

risk with dumping cleaners in that motor is it WILL also wash the clinder walls scratches and disturb the carbon in the chambers etc etc...

he could welll end up with needing a steady diet of "Restore" for oil control with that many miles...

I'd try a Purolator filter first,,,then just a small amount of rislone/sea foam/ whatever if needed to see if it will go away...

depends on what the trash actually is in the check valve for whether cleaners can remove it if that is the problem...

JE,
food for thought:
many cars today are 100,000 drivetrain warrentee and do not call for synthetic oil....
K&N and Mobil don't make filters,,,they buy them from the big 3

Last edited by red65mustang; 02-19-2010 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
double,
his motor has 130k miles on it in a heavy vehicle!!!

risk with dumping cleaners in that motor is it WILL also wash the cylinder walls scratches and disturb the carbon in the chambers etc etc...

he could welll end up with needing a steady diet of "Restore" for oil control with that many miles...

I'd try a Purolator filter first,,,then just a small amount of rislone/sea foam/ whatever if needed to see if it will go away...

depends on what the trash actually is in the check valve for whether cleaners can remove it if that is the problem...

JE,
food for thought:
many cars today are 100,000 drivetrain warrentee and do not call for synthetic oil....
K&N and Mobil don't make filters,,,they buy them from the big 3
Yes you are probably right about filter manufacturers, but brands have specifications that they market in their package and through their sales and distribution network. If you trust the name and trust the product it does not matter who made the product, it matters the specs of that product.

As far as synthetics are concerned there is no reason that any engine can't run synthetic no matter the year of manufacture. A viscous fluid is a viscous fluid. I don't think that anyone can make a case that a engine was designed to use dinosaur oil only but rather, oil, dino or syn, was designed for use in engines. Now some engines are sensitive about oil, but has no bearing as to whether it is synthetic or dino or syn. Some engines just don't like certain oils for some mechanical reason. Your statement beckons the question, why would the vehicle in question not run well on a 20W 40 fully synthetic oil and a K&N oil filter? But run well with a Purolator with dino oil. By the way Im not attached to a brand name but I am attached to the specs, I use K&N, Mobil 1, Bosh, Fram Tough Guard, Napa Gold or Wix, Amsoil/Wix. And I expect to get about 18,000 miles out of my oil change and do on a regular basis. I have 250,000 miles on chevy K2500 454 with oil changes on a 20,000 mile basis, uses no oil today and runs like a ruptured ape. I have 105,000 miles on a Mercury Grand Marqui, on only 5 oil changes. Study this subject and you will find out that what I say is true. With synthetic you can be greener and you can be nicer to your car. My Mercury (4.6 liter V-8) gets 26 MPG at 80 MPH, (I-10 W of San Antonio is 80 to El Paso) our temps are anywhere from 90 to 113 in the summertime and we always run the A/C. If you are not getting this kind of service out of your oil and filter, I suggest that you be kind to your pocketbook and read up on this subject.
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Old 02-22-2010, 04:51 PM
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J.E.
more food for thought:
Valvoline offers the same 300k miles motor wear warranty whether you use their conventional or synthetic oil...
(synthetic oil per se is not a magic bullet to extend motor life)

both types of oil (synthetic or conventional) in any brand "are" refined from "dino oil"....

advantage I do like for synthetic oils is the more uniform molecules chain size (due to the expensive further refining steps) helps in extreme working conditions for conducting more heat away from the parts so the oil film seperation is maintained...

the faster cold flow would only benefit a motor that has not been used for quite a long time (long enough for the parts to go totally dry with no oil present on the surface)

most do have a better detergents additives package so that more miles between changes is more competitive with conventional oils changes costs....

I do like synthetic oils and do use them,,,in the tranny and rear end and "sometimes" in the motor based on the application for peace of mind....

worth a quick read:
http://www.valvoline.com/car-care/motor-oil-myths/
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:36 PM
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The hydraulic filter there is one for each valve, becomes plugged up with sludge.
Or rather, inside the lifter is a piston that sludge will jam. This pistons job is to have oil pressured pump it up so the bottom of the valve stem seats against it. This takes up slack between the cam and the valve. from wear, replaces the old style hand adjustment engine use to require. When stuck and cannot close this gap, a space causes the tap tap tap.
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