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Old 02-16-2010, 06:02 PM
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noise at start up

I have a 2001 GMC Yukon XL with the 5.7 engine it has about a 130.000 on it the problem is that in the morning when it's first started it has a load ticking noise that seems to be coming from the engine in a few moments it goes away thanks for any idea's

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Old 02-16-2010, 06:33 PM
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it is probably a lifter, it is just taking a few to pump them up with oil. maybe next time you change the oil or have it changed run an engine flush through it just to clean things out. then continue every other oil change
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Old 02-17-2010, 01:02 PM
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nosie in engine at start up

Thanks crussell85 that sounds about right because it stops in a few moments of running so I will try the flushing and hope it stops if not its not going to ruin the engine thanks again
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:38 PM
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May also be piston slap? I have been told by more than few people that there G.M. engines do this when cold....
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:52 PM
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What oil filter is on it?
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Old 02-17-2010, 04:27 PM
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It could be piston slap, it could be a roller tappet (common with GM roller tappets with high miles) or it could be a rod bearing slapping the journal until the oil pressure builds up. Usually the rod gives a rather loud knock making it obvious it`s a rod. I had a malibu that did this and it stopped when I stopped using fram oil filters. If it`s just a ticking you can bet it`s a lifter. Before you do your next oil change, pour a can of seafoam in the oil and let it idle 20 minutes then do your oil change, this should eliminate the ticking lifter. If it`s piston slap, which also makes a knocking noise, there`s nothing that will help it, but usually piston slap lasts longer than a few seconds, it usually takes minutes before it quiets down.
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Old 02-17-2010, 04:48 PM
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I wouldn't put a fram oil filter on the seized of 305 sitting in my garage. They use cardboard for their check valves and the cardboard 99 percent of the time falls apart. Cut on in half one of these days (a used one) and I bet you will never run another one again. Try a WIX filter they are nascar approved.
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Old 02-17-2010, 05:56 PM
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My old 300-6 Ford rattled like that before I rebuilt it. Pulled the motor down to find all rod and main bearings deep into the copper. 'Course, in its defense, I will have to admit that it had somewhere around 250,000 miles on it.
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crussell85
it is probably a lifter, it is just taking a few to pump them up with oil. maybe next time you change the oil or have it changed run an engine flush through it just to clean things out. then continue every other oil change
I say you hit the nail on the head. It;s just taking a little longer to pump the oil through the engine. JMO But it could be the bearins too.


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Hey Richard good to see you back around again. And those old 300 six heck of a engine ain't it.
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:24 PM
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The 300 Ford Straight Six Shooter is one of the most durable engines there is. My bro in laws father ran one in his Ford pickup that had well over 400,000 miles on it, it didn`t smoke, but it would use a half quart of oil in 3000 miles but it still ran sweet. He worked for a steel company that required alot of traveling and not just interstate miles. When he finally retired it was because the body was shot and falling apart, the engine and 5 speed transmission still worked great. I was very impressed as you can`t ask for service better than that.
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:14 PM
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seafoam huh? i have heard of that, just dont think i ever seen it. my 2000 silverado does the same thing, and i too am pretty sure its a lifter. i did swap from the fram filter, () some may remember my old post titled "fram sucker " ) and i must say after the swap, that noise almost went away completely.....i think ill give the sea foam a try.
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:43 PM
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Switch to synthetic oil, Auto zone has a great deal on synthetic oil and an k@N filter from time to time, or a mobil one filter just depending on the sale they have. The quality filter has that rubber flap that keeps the oil from flowing back into the system, it aint perfect but helps keep galleries full. the synthetic stays clean in the crankcase for a long time, like 15000 miles, and it flows quickly at all temps, you system will immediately pressurize with this type of filter and synthetic oil, additionally the synthetic oil will clean your engine. If you want to know more about synthetic oil visit the Amsoil site. You don't have to buy it to learn about it. I buy my full synthetic at Auto zone, It's reasonable priced, look for full synthetic oil that advertises 15,000 mile oil changes on the back in small print. Regular synthetic oil will act the same in the crank case and will clean your engine, but it's hard to have faith in it for extended oil-change. If you fear a warranty problem, just use synthetic and change at the manufactures recommended period. Doing this MAY eliminate your hydraulic lifter sound. Nothing will cure a rod knocking, wrist pin knock, or piston slapping. One thing you can do is the old trick with the screw driver. you probably remember it. Take a long screwdriver and place the tip of the screwdriver on the block while the motor is running. place your ear to the end of the handle in this way you can listen to all the neat little sounds in your motor. If it is lifters that are making the noise you will not hear them after they pump up. If it is a rod, wrist-pin, or piston you will be able to identify it by probing the screwdriver in different areas of the motor. Caution, careful where you put that screwdriver or you might be wearing it for a while. If you have long hair of a beard of baggy clothing watch out you can get caught up in the machinery faster than you can imagine. good luck
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Old 02-18-2010, 02:35 AM
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I would say piston slap also although lifter is possible too. The newer GM engines do have a tendency to have piston slap, or so i've been told. A few years ago I saw pictures inside a Chevy engine that had only 30k miles on it, the scuffing and scratches on the piston and cylinder walls was insane for 30k miles. It was torn down due to piston slap. I want to say that it was a 5.3 engine but i don't remember now.
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:18 AM
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"if" you have kept up with oil changes,,,not likely a "flush" with seafoam/rislone/etc will help...
(all that a fix in a can does do for lifters is disolve accumulated varnish,,,all "detergent" oils prevent varnish build up)
lifters do just plain wear out,,,the check valve spring and or seal clearances do wear out....
lifter guts diagram:
http://www.northernautoparts.com/Ima...er_diagram.jpg

the source of the problem is many many years of driving miles while the motor was still stone cold = rapid wear on everything = see attached and note that is only a 60hour test!!!

whether it is lifter bore wear or piston slap or whatever,,,the motor is "talkin'" to you saying warm me up first before you put a load on me!!!!
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Last edited by red65mustang; 02-18-2010 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
"if" you have kept up with oil changes,,,not likely a "flush" with seafoam/rislone/etc will help...
(all that a fix in a can does do for lifters is disolve accumulated varnish,,,all "detergent" oils prevent varnish build up)
lifters do just plain wear out,,,the check valve spring and or seal clearances do wear out....
lifter guts diagram:
http://www.northernautoparts.com/Ima...er_diagram.jpg

the source of the problem is many many years of driving miles while the motor was still stone cold = rapid wear on everything = see attached and note that is only a 60hour test!!!

whether it is lifter bore wear or piston slap or whatever,,,the motor is "talkin'" to you saying warm me up first before you put a load on me!!!!
Could not have said it better, the motor is talking to you. I had a brand new car that had bad lifters in it. They failed at about 12,000 miles. Ford told me that it was normal for the motor. I told them that was bull pull it apart and put new lifters in it. The motor was Ford favorite four cylinder, the damn thing was almost indestructible and ford was very proud of it. There was nothing normal about having to wait for the lifters to pump up each morning. They fixed it! The only reason that I suggest the filter and synthetic oil is that the filter keeps the oil in the galleries full and the synthetic oil flows quickly at any temp because of its inherent properties. The synthetics also don't break down or accumulate ash, synthetic does not need detergent but will break down some accumulations of sludge, but most importantly it will definitely clean the parts of the engine that it flows through. It's worth a try if he can find a 10w 40 or 20w 40 synthetic and a good filter to see if it will quiet them down by building the pressure quickly. One of the things the motor may be telling him is that he may have the WRONG oil in it. a 5w anything is not worth a ---- for anything. One thing is for sure, if he does not address the issue, it will not go away.
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