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Old 08-27-2010, 05:48 AM
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noisy 350 please help

i have a 1982 chevy camaro z-28 which has a 350 4 bolt main in it...about 3 years ago i totally rebuilt the entire engine..well this summer i had to replace the cam in it engine only has 3500 miles on it ...it was a summit brand 1102...so this time around i got a lunati voodoo cam with pretty similiar specs...timing is set dead on ...engine runs great....vaccum is where it needs to be ....oil pressure and temp are perfect the only problem i am having is after it warms up to normal temps there is a noise coming from somewhere in the motor...it almost sounds like noisy lifters but i have been through rechecking those atleast a half a dozen times...you cant hear the noise when its idling or at lower rpms only when you start to bring the rpms up thus why i kept thinking lifters.....i am totally stumped...please help

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Old 08-27-2010, 07:16 AM
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A mechanics stethoscope will help you isolate where the noise is coming from. Check around the from cover since you had it off
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Old 08-27-2010, 05:22 PM
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Might be as simple as needing to re-torque the rockers.
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Old 08-27-2010, 07:29 PM
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I always set the lifters on a 350 at 1 & 1/2 turns . I've done dozens this way and never once had a problem . Try it . You may like it .
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Old 08-27-2010, 07:38 PM
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I only do 1/2 turn and it seems to work also. I guess it's a matter of personal preference.
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Old 08-27-2010, 07:40 PM
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also i have on lifter that is a gusher i mean it shoots a steady stream of oil so much that it shoots all the way over to the wheel well is it a problem?...there is only one that does it
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Old 08-27-2010, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373
I only do 1/2 turn and it seems to work also. I guess it's a matter of personal preference.
There was a bulletin out back in '85 that said to get rid of the lifter clatter on startup on the Chevy 350 to set them at 1-1/2 turns . I have been doing 'em that way ever since . I had been doing 1 turn before that .
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Old 08-27-2010, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by untchable502
also i have on lifter that is a gusher i mean it shoots a steady stream of oil so much that it shoots all the way over to the wheel well is it a problem?...there is only one that does it
Ah , yes this lifter is not holding pressure and IS collapsing .
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Old 08-28-2010, 03:43 PM
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i pulled the top of the motor apart and pulled out the lifter in question....the surface appears to be nice and smooth doesnt look concaved....went to push on the plunger and cant force it down...but you say because its gushing like that then it is collapsing.....would that be the cause of the noise at higher rpms??...i plan on getting a new lifter tommorow and replace it...any advice is greatly appreciated
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Old 08-29-2010, 09:08 AM
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Depends on what kind of noise you have but, if the Voodoo cams are anything like the Comp xtreme cams, expect some valvetrain noise.
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Old 08-29-2010, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by untchable502
i pulled the top of the motor apart and pulled out the lifter in question....the surface appears to be nice and smooth doesnt look concaved....went to push on the plunger and cant force it down...but you say because its gushing like that then it is collapsing.....would that be the cause of the noise at higher rpms??...i plan on getting a new lifter tommorow and replace it...any advice is greatly appreciated
Before you replace a lifter (which should only be done as a LAST resort), disassemble your lifter that is in question. You will see a cup, spring and check ball assembly snapped onto the bottom of the center "piston" of the lifter. Often all that has happened is the cup assembly isn't fully seated onto the piston.

Remove the cup using a pick and see that the spring (tiny) and ball are there and that the ball isn't scored and that the seat on the piston that the ball seals, doesn't have any ridge or imperfections that would prevent the ball from seating properly.

Shown below is a GM hydraulic roller lifter. A flat tappet lifter has the same internal construction as the roller lifter. The arrow shows the location of the cup, spring and check ball assembly mentioned above.



A better choice if the lifter's piston is found to be unrepairable, would be to replace the piston (from another lifter) and reuse the lifter body that has broken in to the lobe that it started life running on. The lifter foot and the cam lobe quickly wear in together to become a unit- using a new lifter risks wiping out the cam lobe.
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Old 08-29-2010, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMC boogie
Depends on what kind of noise you have but, if the Voodoo cams are anything like the Comp xtreme cams, expect some valvetrain noise.
some valve train noise???...seems alittle extreme on the noise i have...voodoo cams lobes are suppose to be tapered to let the lifter down easy therefore lessening the noise or so there discription claims....i just seem to have alot of noise at higher rpms
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Old 08-29-2010, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMC boogie
Depends on what kind of noise you have but, if the Voodoo cams are anything like the Comp xtreme cams, expect some valvetrain noise.
some noise??...this noise seems to be alittle extreme..especially when i`m driving down the road and can hear it in the car...but only at higher rpms....voodoos discription claims the lobes are tapered to let the lifters down easy for less noise...or so they claim
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Old 08-29-2010, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Before you replace a lifter (which should only be done as a LAST resort), disassemble your lifter that is in question. You will see a cup, spring and check ball assembly snapped onto the bottom of the center "piston" of the lifter. Often all that has happened is the cup assembly isn't fully seated onto the piston.

Remove the cup using a pick and see that the spring (tiny) and ball are there and that the ball isn't scored and that the seat on the piston that the ball seals, doesn't have any ridge or imperfections that would prevent the ball from seating properly.

Shown below is a GM hydraulic roller lifter. A flat tappet lifter has the same internal construction as the roller lifter. The arrow shows the location of the cup, spring and check ball assembly mentioned above.



A better choice if the lifter's piston is found to be unrepairable, would be to replace the piston (from another lifter) and reuse the lifter body that has broken in to the lobe that it started life running on. The lifter foot and the cam lobe quickly wear in together to become a unit- using a new lifter risks wiping out the cam lobe.
The image above is from: http://pontiacbonnevilleclub.net/for...php?f=12&t=656. Sorry to post again, but wanted to credit the guy for his photo.
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Before you replace a lifter (which should only be done as a LAST resort), disassemble your lifter that is in question. You will see a cup, spring and check ball assembly snapped onto the bottom of the center "piston" of the lifter. Often all that has happened is the cup assembly isn't fully seated onto the piston.

Remove the cup using a pick and see that the spring (tiny) and ball are there and that the ball isn't scored and that the seat on the piston that the ball seals, doesn't have any ridge or imperfections that would prevent the ball from seating properly.

Shown below is a GM hydraulic roller lifter. A flat tappet lifter has the same internal construction as the roller lifter. The arrow shows the location of the cup, spring and check ball assembly mentioned above.



A better choice if the lifter's piston is found to be unrepairable, would be to replace the piston (from another lifter) and reuse the lifter body that has broken in to the lobe that it started life running on. The lifter foot and the cam lobe quickly wear in together to become a unit- using a new lifter risks wiping out the cam lobe.
Thanks , cobalt for picking up the ball on this one . I was out of town for 3 days and you helped this guy out more than I could have anyway . I hope he gets this sorted out . It's gotta be frustrating . I hope we hear when he gets it straightened out .
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