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Old 11-30-2005, 06:25 PM
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Non etching primer or epoxy

HI,
I have opted to use picklex for several reasons. The main one being I can't paint anything untill spring but I wanted to start striping the car. I have seen lots of posts here on SPI products being great. I have to go with a non etching primer or epoxy because of the picklex. What is the best SPI or other product I can use over picklex? I emailed HOK and SPI with this question with no reply Can someone give me some advise on compatibility? Thanks, Walt

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Old 11-30-2005, 06:44 PM
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This seems to be a popular question as I have had no less than eight emails in the last week about compatibility. Somebody recommended it!

If you must use picklex whatever system you use I would use their epoxy first. If anything will help you to overcome the disadvantage of using the picklex, epoxy will and the epoxy is less likely to attack the picklex than say an etch primer (not so sure thats recommended) or going with a 2K or direct to metal primer.

You must remember the weakest product of any paint system decides how good that system is. Your weakest link will be the picklex.


Unbelievable stuff! (here are the spec's)
2 Picklex® Process eliminates the conventional acid etching/pickling, phosphating,
chromating and chemical sealer from the metal surface preparation and pre-treatment
process before finishing such as powder coating,
liquid painting, e-coating, electroplating etc. Picklex® removes laser scale, weld scale,
surface rust, white rust etc. from the steel & aluminum surface, eliminating media blasting
and acid treatment

Last edited by BarryK; 11-30-2005 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 11-30-2005, 08:02 PM
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I read the test results on picklex and it seemed very impressive. Does anyone know what the disadvantages are in using this product in our hobby or profession. Would like to hear some feedback on this one. Cheers!!!
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Old 11-30-2005, 08:24 PM
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Barry, do you recommend Picklex with SPI products?
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Old 11-30-2005, 08:26 PM
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Never!

But it is compatible and that seems to be the most asked question.
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Old 11-30-2005, 09:57 PM
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Is there any metal conditioning product you would recommend with SPI epoxy? Many paint manufacturers recommend the use of metal conditioners, as does I-CAR.
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Old 12-01-2005, 12:03 PM
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Barry, you seem to be very definite on the, "Never". What is the disadvantage of using picklex. I thought it looked pretty good. I obviously am missing something with not having a whole lot of knowledge on this topic. Cheers!!!!
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Old 12-01-2005, 01:15 PM
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Is there any metal conditioning product you would recommend with SPI epoxy? Many paint manufacturers recommend the use of metal conditioners, as does I-CAR.
************************************************
Never, no way, no how! Let I-car do what they do best and me do whatever it is I do best.
bwk


Quote:
Originally Posted by 46chevyfleetline
Barry, you seem to be very definite on the, "Never". What is the disadvantage of using picklex. I thought it looked pretty good. I obviously am missing something with not having a whole lot of knowledge on this topic. Cheers!!!!
*************************************************
There is an old saying in this business. If you have done everything right, once you pick up the paint gun a 100 things can go wrong out of your control, so why make it a 101 things?

Band-aid approaches save no time and do not help you a bit. Is there a test that defines how much rust you can convert with this stuff and have a good foundation? NO. So do we do a mil or a 1/4 inch of rust, where do we start and where do we stop?
Who will they call when a sheet of paint comes off the hood/ Picklex or the poor sap that sold the epoxy? The epoxy of course of course.
Hey I love phones calls but not that kind!
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Old 12-01-2005, 11:12 PM
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Thanks for the reply Barry.I appreciate it.
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Old 12-01-2005, 11:21 PM
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There may be some readers who have not been introduced to proper metal preparation procedures. Note that any information I present here may not apply to SPI products. Always follow manufacturer's guidelines!

Tech-Cor Research Bulletin:
Quote:
When using most two component epoxy primers, both metal conditioner and conversion coating are required for obtaining good paint adhesion...

Metal conditioning bare metal is chemically cleaning the metal surface. Metal conditioners are usually a phosphoric acid based cleaner which chemically cleans by etching the bare metal. Etching creates a surface finish which the base primer can adhere to easily. (Excluding bare metal which has been abrasive blasted). When using metal conditioner, be sure to follow product manufacturer's application instructions carefully for proper results. Do not touch bare metal with your hands after surface has been treated with metal conditioner. Doing so will contaminate the clean surface with oils from your skin...

Conversion coating is used to form a uniform, chemically bonded zinc phosphate layer on the metal surface. The zinc phosphate layer is used to form a chemical structure which facilitates primer adhesion. When rinsing the surface, check for surface cleanliness by observing that the water sheets out and does not bead or channel.
It's important to note that these conditioning and conversion products should not be used where they cannot be properly rinsed, near unsealed pinch welds for example. But in many applications, especially on large exterior panels, metal conditioners and conversion coatings provide an extra measure of corrosion protection and adhesion that a quality job deserves.
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