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Old 02-22-2009, 08:14 AM
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noob engine build questions

iv got a few small questions here, im kind of stuck and want to get these answered before i move on.

first of all, iv got new heads with new valves, a new cam and lifters and im re using the old push rods, rockers and studs. is it important that i kept these in the same order that they came from the motor because iv already lost the order of the push rods and the rockers, does this mean ill need new ones?

when assembling the rockers and such, can i use a multi purpose engine lube like that white stuff, or do i need a special lube? it seems like he only lube i can find at any parts store is the white stuff.

when putting the head bolts in, do i just put anti-seize on all of them or do i put a sealant like black silicone on the water jacketed ones, or whats the proper procedure there.

on the back of the crank, the flex plate lines up on a little dowel pin that is pushed into the crank, the stock motor had this dowel pin, my new motor just has the hole for it. can i just buy this dowel pin or what? do i even need it or is it just for easy alignment for if you ever tried to swap a flex plate while its in the truck or soemthing like that.

and lastly, what is entailed in rebuilding a distributer, is this something i should consider since im re-using the 200,000 mile distributer on my new motor? and yes, i know i need a new gear, steel or iron for flat tappets right?

thanks in advance.
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Old 02-22-2009, 08:34 AM
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As you are replacing the heads etc. There is no need to keep the misc parts in exact order. I have been building engines since the sixties and only use motor oil and/or assembly lube on lube points in the valve train.

I use teflon sealer on coolant contact head bolts, with a bit of oil onder the hex end. You can pull the dowel from the old crank and re use it if desired.

As inexpensive as some of the aftermkt new distribs are. I would go with one of them. Rather than an inexperienced rebuild.
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Old 02-22-2009, 08:40 AM
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That white stuff is not that good of an assembly lube. All the white stuff is is water based white lithium grease. Go to the local GM dealership parts dept and buy a bottle of GM pn# 88862586 EOS "engine oil suplement". In a bowl or..other suitable vessel, mix the EOS 50-50 with 10w-30 motor oil. Lube all the valvetrain parts with this mix of motor oil and GM EOS. The new cam lobes and lifter faces should be coated with Molybdenum Disulfide Grease paste" (Isky rev lube) You can find this stuff in generic form either in a small tub or a squeeze tube at most good auto parts stores in the grease and lube section.
You do not need to prefill the new hyd lifters with oil. Just lube up with oil and put moly disulfide paste on the lifter face. Don;t forget the oil the new distributor gear.
Its not that critical to keep the pushrods in order. If they are worn out, replace.
Then before you install the intake manifold dump the rest of the EOS+ oil mix in the lifter valley over the camshaft. Fill the oil pan and new oil filter with 10W-10 motor oil and pre prime the oil pump.

The GM EOS is a special mix of oil and proven anti wear,anti scuff, anti friction agents to allow easy new motor new cam/lifter break in. Crane Super Lube is essentually the same thing.
It is now advised with a flat tappet cammed motor to continue using this EOS or simular Zinc/phospherous based anti wear additive (ZDDP) added to your oil on every oil change. It will not harm your motor.
The only thing I have ever used on engine cylinder head bolts is the Permatex Ultra Black RTV sealer.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm


http://cranecams.com/index.php?show=...s&lvl=2&prt=15

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-22-2009 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 02-22-2009, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
That white stuff is not that good of an assembly lube. Go to the local GM dealership parts dept and buy a bottle of GM EOS "engine oil suplement". In a bowl or... mix the EOS 50-50 with 10w-30 motor oil. Lube all the valvetrain parts with this mix of oil and GM EOS. The new cam lobes and lifter faces should be coated with Moly disulfide grease paste" (Isky rev lube) You can find this stuff either in a small tub or a squeeze tube at most good auto parts stores in the grease and lube section.
You do not need to prefill the new hyd lifters with oil. Just lube up with oil and put moly disulfide paste on the lifter face. Don;t forget the oil the new distributor gear.
Its not that critical to keep the pushrods in order. If they are worn out, replace.
Then before you install the intake manifold dump the rest of the EOS+ oil mix in the lifter valley over the camshaft. Fill the oil pan and new oil filter with 10W-10 motor oil and pre prime the oil pump.

The GM EOS is a special mix of oil and proven anti wear,anti scuff, anti friction agents to allow easy new motor new cam/lifter break in. Crane Super Lube is essentually the same thing.
It is now advised with a flat tappet cammed motor to continue using this EOS or simular Zinc/phospherous based anti wear additive (ZDDP) added to your oil on every oil change. It will not harm your motor.
i know all about the additives, zddp, eos, ect. i have no good auto parts stores around, the dealer has no eos, and the only lube i can find anywhere is the white crap. i know of one small shop that would probably stock the right lube but they are closed Sunday and Sunday is the only day of the week i have off. if i fall behind and don't get anything done today, my truck will fall a full week behind schedule, another week of having no transportation. it really sucks.

the push rods and rockers were used for 2 races. everything shows no wear, i would have left it all alone but the cam that came in the motor was a circle track cam, no good for a pickup truck and a blower.

so anyway, thanks for the replys. i feel a little less confused now. im about to head out and search up and down for some good molly based assembly lube and a distributer gear, some sensors, ect.
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:05 AM
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for assembling the rockers and such, you say i should mix engine oil with eos. what if i just lube it all with oil, and on Monday my crane cams break in additive(the additive with the most zddp of them all) will be here, add that to the oil and everything is going to get pre lubed before initial fire with the additvie int eh oil anyway.

sound reasonable?

thanks alot for the replies, it seams like this is the only forum that answers my questions quickly and with plenty of knowledge on the subject. all the other forums i wait for days to get half *** answers from people who don't know anymore about it then myself lol
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:11 AM
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The white grease is useless on a camshaft. It is water based and has no high pressure antiscuff properties. plain engine oil is a better assembly lube than the white junk. Someone will stock GM or AC delco branded EOS or have a bottle or squeeze pack of crane/comp/federal mogul/isky/generic/lucas cam break in lube in a cam box or something. I've even seen the moly disulfide in a spray cans and butter tubs in hardware stores.
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:21 AM
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ok, im getting confused here. so you are supposed to take any high pressure lubricant like eos, or cam and lifter lube, mix it with half engine oil, and use that for the rockers and pushrods. can i use regular engine oil and then im going to putting the zddp additive in the oil anyway.

i honestly can not find the proper stuff anywhere. where i live, theres really no such thing as a decent parts store.

so what iv gotten so far is that the white stuff is worthless and that im supposed to cut a high pressure lube with engine oil and use that for rockers and pushrods. am i correct?
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:38 AM
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If you are in such a hurry why not just throw it together any way you want and then when the cam goes flat on you and metal gets spread all thru your motor, do the whole thing over right in a week or two. Its only money, you'll get more.

You have wasted more time on the computer posting about this whitle grease on MULTIPLE ENGINE FORUMS, now than it takes to get on the phone, find some cam lube etc, and assemble the whole thing. If you cannot figure out what I typed about what lube goes where and why, get someone who knows how to assemble and engine and has the time, to do it for you.

The white crap is for lubing up the little rollers on your garage door. It has no place in an engine.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-22-2009 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 02-22-2009, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
If you are in such a hurry why not just throw it together any way you want and then when the cam goes flat on you and metal gets spread all thru your motor, do the whole thing over right in a week or two. Its only money, you'll get more.

You have wasted more time on the computer posting about this whitle grease on MULTIPLE ENGINE FORUMS, now than it takes to get on the phone, find some cam lube etc, and assemble the whole thing. If you cannot figure out what I typed about what lube goes where and why, get someone who knows how to assemble and engine and has the time, to do it for you.

The white crap is for lubing up the little rollers on your garage door. It has no place in an engine.
i know, i know. im not trying to hurry, it just seams that way because i want to get soemthing done. i called around, nobody is open, whoever is open only has the white crap. i guess im just going to assemble it with regular motor oil. reason i resort to the forums is becasue iv already talked with all the dealers and part stores before, seems to get me no where, everyone just tells me to use white grease, which obviously is not the right way.

i can figure out what you typed, you just sort of said it in a confusing manner to me, it seamed like you said eos is the only thing to use, but using an assembly lube like a cam and lifter lube would be the same i guess. idk what you expect, its my first engine build im just trying to get an understanding of what i need to do.
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
That white stuff is not that good of an assembly lube. All the white stuff is is water based white lithium grease. Go to the local GM dealership parts dept and buy a bottle of GM pn# 88862586 EOS "engine oil suplement". In a bowl or..other suitable vessel, mix the EOS 50-50 with 10w-30 motor oil. Lube all the valvetrain parts with this mix of motor oil and GM EOS. The new cam lobes and lifter faces should be coated with Molybdenum Disulfide Grease paste" (Isky rev lube) You can find this stuff in generic form either in a small tub or a squeeze tube at most good auto parts stores in the grease and lube section.
You do not need to prefill the new hyd lifters with oil. Just lube up with oil and put moly disulfide paste on the lifter face. Don;t forget the oil the new distributor gear.
Its not that critical to keep the pushrods in order. If they are worn out, replace.
Then before you install the intake manifold dump the rest of the EOS+ oil mix in the lifter valley over the camshaft. Fill the oil pan and new oil filter with 10W-10 motor oil and pre prime the oil pump.

The GM EOS is a special mix of oil and proven anti wear,anti scuff, anti friction agents to allow easy new motor new cam/lifter break in. Crane Super Lube is essentually the same thing.
It is now advised with a flat tappet cammed motor to continue using this EOS or simular Zinc/phospherous based anti wear additive (ZDDP) added to your oil on every oil change. It will not harm your motor.
The only thing I have ever used on engine cylinder head bolts is the Permatex Ultra Black RTV sealer.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm


http://cranecams.com/index.php?show=...s&lvl=2&prt=15
If you are using an engine oil with 0.13 Zinc & Phosphorus, why do you need to an additive?

I was told to run an oil that had the proper amount of ZDDP and forget about th aftermarket snake oil.

Am I wrong? if yes, why?
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:00 PM
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Why not just buy some cam lube or assembly lube online somewhere and have it shipped. You may not have it right away but if you order now it will be here by this sunday probably. Pay for faster shipping if you must. A few more dollars is worth it to not have your new cam go flat on you.
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Old 02-24-2009, 07:44 PM
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i ended up finding some permatex assembly lube. pushrods were to short so i got next to nothing done after all that lol. i got some parts, got things organized, and ordered the tools needed to see what pushrods i need to order.

the biggest problem i ran in to is when i went to put the new timing tab on the timing cover i went to torque it to 100 inch pounds and i couldnt get one inch pound, i pulled the bolt out along with all the threads from the block. i ordered a helicoil on summit since i was ordering a pushrod length tester tool anyway. my question now is this, are the timing cover bolts threaded in blind holes, or does it go through. if its a blind hole then im in luck, if not i have to take it back apart to clean out the metal shavings. im thinking they are blind holes since i assembled them with engine oil and not thread sealer, but just want to be damn shure.

iv came to accept that its just going to take forever to get this engine swap done since i get one day a week off, just how it has to be.

thanks for the replies.
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