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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2007, 02:49 PM
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i did use a reducer, but I was told that i could also add an additional component, a catalyst. so instead of mixing 1:1, base and reducer, a catalyst is added to the equation for a 1:1:1/16.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2007, 09:35 AM
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would a paint heat lamp help out?
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Old 11-24-2007, 12:00 PM
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Yeah, like the other guys said, if your clear is thin or non existant, then likely will have some lifting occur when you reapply. Back when I did the motorcycle frame, had some white specks in it and missed some spots and wasn't happy, so I repainted the thing. I had few spots that lifted, and had to mess around sanding em flat and getting base to lay over the area. Of course didn't help it was a cheap omni base that was unactivated.
If you can avoid using a fast reducer at all I would, even though it may be over some thin areas. Black is slow and afraid you will trap solvents, plus on something like a frame you need time to hit areas and avoid dry areas. If you get lifting when you start laying your base, maybe best just sand and hit those areas with some epoxy and leave it sit awhile, knock epoxy flat and continue. All this, as well as your struggle with temps, is also a reason to avoid repainting the entire frame if possible. A heat lamp may possibly help, but with thin areas solvent is gonna want to get under the edge and lift. But the lamp could help warm the area you will be painting (kinda hard to warm entire thing without having several lamps or heating the paint area) and also help speed up repair time in the event of an area lifting.
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Old 11-24-2007, 03:31 PM
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I've become an "expert" doing my car with thin spots. I just painted the AVATAR car and most of it turned out pretty good, or so I thought. The clear on the back of both rear quarters was a little too thin for a good cut and buff so I decided to reclear - so I sanded with 800. I stood back and decided that the shadows were not my imagination. I reshot the DuPont BC (3 coats back to back after flashing) over the SPI clear, MUCH BETTER. I then hammered on 4 coats of SPI clear - even better yet. The temp was 55/60*, I used mid temp reducer for both the BC and CC. BUT after dropping one of my splash shields and gouging the paint, found that if you try to re base the feathered out paint ding without having any clear, you will very probably raise the first BC layer. Then it turns ugly - and you start with 2K after sanding the raised paint. A real PITA and time eater.

There is probably nothing nastier to paint then a frame - which is one of the reasons I had mine powder coated after originally painting it with Centari - no thin spots now!!!

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Old 11-24-2007, 03:48 PM
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were you mixing the dupont bc with 1:1 base and reducer, or did you also use a catalyst(activator)?
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Old 11-24-2007, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shad9876
were you mixing the dupont bc with 1:1 base and reducer, or did you also use a catalyst(activator)?
Strictly the BC with the 7175S mid temp reducer according to the DuPont instruction. The Chroma Premier activator 1230S is optional and adds an isocyanate to the mix - which I didn't want.

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Old 11-25-2007, 07:13 PM
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Good, not a big fan of isocyanates myself.
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:54 PM
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to add to the great advice, if you have an airbrush, keep it at hand. i have an iwata hp-c gravity fed airbrush that will spray eurethane basecoats at 5 PSI! its the lower pressure that lets it get into ANYTHING.

just remember if you're going to use an airbrush in conjunction with a spraygun to be careful not to give yourself dryspots switching them around.
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Old 11-27-2007, 05:35 AM
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I do have a cheapy HF airbrush that for whatever reason does a very nice job - actually better then the expensive Binks that I had years ago. I have used it on touching up small sand thrus on an edge very sucessfully as late as 4:30PM yesterday. It sure beats warming up the big Iwata LPH 400 for a 1" burn thru!!!

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