Whether it's clear or color you still need to "baby" it over thin clear. As far as the temp reducers and hardeners, darn tootin that will make a difference. You really should have the faster reducers and hardeners. HOWEVER, and this is a big HOWEVER, those slower reducers and hardeners are the best ones even in the colder weather for doing something like this frame. It's hard to keep from getting dry spots on something like this. If you have a little "wetter" reducer and hardener (slower flashing/activating) you can keep it wet over the whole thing until you are done shooting
Yeah, I'm sure there are some thin areas of clear. Part of the problem for me with all of the nooks and crannies is that some areas would get quite a bit of paint while others would get very little. I kind of had to meet in the middle on some areas and go with a slightly heavy area with a slightly thinner areas next to it(the harder to get areas)...otherwise I could tell that if I kept trying to push more paint, runs and sags would be inevitable.
Would it help to dust on a a couple light coats of base over the areas that have thin clear? If I did this could I then follow this with a slightly wetter coat? also, will I be able to lay the clear down wet enough so as to avoid dry spots while at the same time not causing solvent problems?
It is going to be very difficult to keep the frame warm for very long. I could get it warm, but when I start painting I've got to open the shop door at least a few feet to vent it out with the fans.
I'm pretty sure that I will need to go with the faster reducer and hardener.