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sounds good
I was putting bondo (3 M brand ) to finish up a rolled rear pan I built and because of the cold weather it didn't harden, It was a mess to get off and clean up.
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Polyester resins absorb water, and do not surface cure. You can control the cure time of polyesters, within a range, to compensate for temperature, to a limit.
No need to heat the whole garage, you can also use a radiant heat source on the panel. Infrared lamps, or something similar. It is just going to take more work to sand. If you can get a good feather edge, you are probably good to go. Because polyester resins do absorb water from the air, I have decided it is necessary to put a good epoxy primer over the metal before using polyester filler. I believe the polyester can absorb enough water to start metal to rust under it in some conditions. |
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Thanks, That is what i was thinking also. The heat source is actually a radiant gas heater, so it worked rather well. When i start sanding it tonight I figure if it sands smooth then there is no problem. If it balls up then I guess I am screwed.
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Polyester resins mixed with hardener have to be above 65 degrees to harden properly.
If you lay Saran wrap or similar tightly over the uncured resin it will not have the "sticky" on the surface when first hardened. I have been laying up some large fiberglass panels. To keep from having to race against the hardener to the finish. I have been laying up the parts in a 50 degree room and then bringing them into a 75 degree room after layup is finished. No more partially hardened polyester/hardener mixture on pert/equipment before the part is done. I use a "waxed" gel-coat and resin to keep the "sticky" down. Then remove wax before finishing up the part. |
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My question is did you weld the entire seam of the split fender?
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| fiberglass, hardener, not enough hardener, tacky |
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