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Old 03-06-2010, 12:19 PM
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Not Firing

Current setup:
1) Ign to EFI pump relay and Edlebrock computer.
2) Ign to starter solenoid
3) Ign to starter pos
4) Ign neutral to starter pos
5) battery pos to starter pos
6) battery neg to engine block
7) Edlebrock amplifier red to coil pos (chk'ed with Edelbrock tech)
8) Amplifier brown to coil neg (chk'd with edlebrock tech)
9) Edlebrock harness (heavy black) to engine block (chk'd with Edelbrock tech)

Computer is awake, pump is activated by relay, test light shows power in both ready and start. Bump the starter and no fire.

Components: SBC crate; 700R; Edelbrock pro flo; Mallory dist and pro-master (series 65 designed for pro-flo).

Note: Engine was started consecutively with just a slight bump just a couple of weeks ago....I've added the ignition to the mix, plumbed rad, fan, tranny, with the intent of running eng to break in the cam....

Problem: No fire

Question: What gives?

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Old 03-06-2010, 11:10 PM
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do you have fuel pressure while rolling the engine. check the ignition module, if you have one
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:54 PM
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fuel pressure yes

I can hear the relay kick in and the pump momentarily run (this is normal to build the pressure). I've also gone to the check valve at end of fuel rail and there is fuel. Problem is no fire through the plugs....
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Old 03-07-2010, 02:27 PM
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if the ignition module is bad then there will fuel pressure initially. The ignition module does not control the initial fuel pump control when the key is first turned to build fuel pressure. It controls after initial pressure is built. Check to see if your pump continues to run while the engine is cranking.
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Old 03-07-2010, 07:45 PM
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Problem seems to be growing...

Subsequent to your first response....I took everything loose and have now introduced the fuse panel to the picture.....Now the ignition is hot in ready start (computer lights up, relay kicks in and pump starts), but it fails to even crank.

Voltage checks at starter and panel.

I've gone through the wiring of ignition to fuse panel and starter with a friend who has same EFI, distributor, and coil set up on a SBC and things check out as correct.

Neutral is direct, so we've ruled out defective neutral switch.

Until I get it to crank, I can't check the pump as suggested.

When I do however, how would you suggest a one man check? You typically can't hear the pump while the engine is cranking. Can I put test leads on the pump terminal for a voltage read?

Also, I didn't think the pump would run as long as there was 50 psi on the pro flo.

Also left out one connection in original wiring....the heavy orange out of Edlebrock harness goes directly to battery pos....just as the instructions state. Are you familiar with the described setup? EFI is foreign to me and I'm trying to figure out how the coil gets hot. unless it is from the heavy orange mentioned and it get's a new color and lighter wire within the harness or an adapter...

I also checked the coil cold and got no resistance.

Last edited by joeford; 03-07-2010 at 07:56 PM.
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Old 03-08-2010, 02:43 PM
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Another thing to check. Is to see if the injectors are firing. Either noid light or test light. Then you would know if its just a spark issue or a control issue for both. Like a crank sensor, ecm, wiring, fuse or whatever. Thats what we do on stock type fuel injection diagnostics, check both fuel and spark for no start.
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:37 PM
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In your first post you said you added the ignition to the mix. What did you add? What is different about it now then when it was running?
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:42 PM
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Fuse panel

Ok...EFI is a new game for me....So, I've backed up and now introducing the fuel panel to the mix. I've followed the very easy (Ron Francis) kit instructions and have the same results. No fire....

I've got a suspicion there is supposed to be an orange wire going from the coil to the ignition terminal on the fuse panel, but I'll try some of the things you guys have outlined first, such as injectors.

I just need somebody to tell me that once I've found the secret, this EFI thing will be reliable going forward....At my age I can't spend all my time trying to learn new tricks....

Thanks....

ps...Ignition has four leads. Orange to Ign/Coil terminal on fuse panel;brown to accessory; blue to neutral on fuse panel; and red to starter solenoid.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:20 PM
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First, the cranking system (start system) should be the same on a fuel injected engine, or an old carb and points setup. A battery, heavy cables connecting it to a solenoid, a momentary contact switch, on the small terminal of the start solenoid, a heavy cable connecting the solenoid to the starter, and a heavy ground cable to get current back to the battery. You should be able to crank the engine with a remote start switch connected directly to the solenoid.
Get that working first.

The ignition system is basically just a coil, supplied with battery voltage, connected to ground by some sort of switch that can break the ground connection at the proper time. It can be points, a transistor, or some electronic black box. Almost every ignition system should have battery voltage at the coil, coils, or coil pack with the key on.
Get that working.

That leaves the fuel pump, or pumps. They are usually is controlled by a Bosch cube type relay. You can take the relay out of its socket, and jump pin 30 to pin 87 on the relay socket, and that should cause your fuel pumps to run.

Do not drive the car with the jumper instead of the fuel pump relay.
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:54 PM
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Let me say it differently....Will Not Crank or Fire!

Wrench #1 Fuel pressure on start position...yes....Engine does not roll unless I take a jumper wire from the solenoid tab to the lug....and then it will crank but not fire. I smell the fuel (yes I checked for leaks)..so I'm reasonably assured I have pressure. If I could figure a way to jumper and check for fire at the same time, I would...but I'm both short and handed.

Wrench #2 Good point...on the injectors....although I've got to figure out first why I have to jumper the solenoid to the starter. I'm beginning to wonder if I have a ign switch issue.

Wrench #3 As for this point, I have all in place, batter, heavy cables to solenoid, an ignition switch (momentary contact switch), etc.....

Signed
Bewildered...
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:05 PM
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Don't forget the neutral

OK....It's cranking....(case of the missing neutral to the starter)

Now to figure out why it's not starting....I'll start some testing tomorrow....
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:25 PM
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OK....It's started

Now cranking but not starting...., I decided their had to be hot to the coil even though the wiring instructions did not show it....So, I have run a wire from the coil to the ignition/coil side of the fuse panel.

She now cranks and starts with the slightest bump on the starter. Success? Not quite...as it runs great for about 10 seconds and then dies out. Start it back and she runs for another 10 seconds...

Sounding like potential loss of fuel pressure? Checked voltage at the fuel pump and it's normal at both ready on and cranking.

Placed a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve and I get 38psi at ready, crank, and run...at least for about 10 seconds when the fuel pressure drops to about 20psi. Turn key to ready, she pumps back to 38psi. Turn key off and the pressure holds at the 38psi. Start her and she looses pressure after about 10 seconds.

Now I'm wondering if this is a regulator issue, pump, or clogged line. New build, so I would not have thought any of the above. Got ideas?
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Old 03-14-2010, 08:30 PM
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Whopeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

She's fired up and purring like a kitten.......Thanks guys....

I am getting a periodic "Warning Hi-Lo Voltage" on the Tuning Module....Not having Alternator in the mix, the battery being a little low and my understanding that Pro Flo likes 14 volts.
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