[frickenbored]

Alright so I'm going to have to get a torque converter for my th400 soon but I'm not sure what stall would be best. Problem is when I bought my motor the bottom end was all done already and I have no clue on the cam specs and either did the seller (I guess he got it from a buddy), the only thing I know about the cam is when it lifts up on the lifter the roller rocker arm gets maxed out, its a quite large cam. The cam makes it self know with open headers due to the rough almost race car sounding idle. (no its not a timing problem or anything, it is actually the cam making the rough idle).

anyway the vehicle is a 1988 K5 Blazer 4x4, the motor is a 383 stroker with a 10.5:1 compression ratio a Holly 670 street avenger carb, MSD ignition (if thats important at all), the trans will be a built up th400, np203 transfer case, right now the 10 bolt has 3.73 gears but I have a dana 44 front and 14 bolt ff rear both with 4.10 gears that will be going in this summer, and its getting 35" tires. The motor makes all of its power in the high end, it can get to 8000 rpm with no problem (limited to 7000rpm) and it pulls from 2000-6000 rpm.

I know I can't get the perfect torque converter for this setup because I don't know the cam specs but I think I can get close. I've been told I want a 3200-3500 stall torque converter. Any suggestions?

[richard stewart 3rd]

Hi,
Try checking for a grind# on the front of the cam, doesn't take
much time or work.
Rich

[ericnova72]

Based on the info you have given that sounds right.

[frickenbored]

also what type of torque converter should I look at? Just looking at a jegs magazine theres, street/strip converters, holeshot converters, race converters, 11", 12", 10", then TCI has all sorts of diffrent ones, saturday nite special, break-a-way, street fighter, super street fighter. Or Jegs and summit make their own no name torque converters. Anyone have any ideas? Its going it a truck used for street driving and mud bogging.

[ericnova72]

In your case I would be looking for something in 10" or 11", 10" preferably. Good rule of thumb given to me about converters that at this stage of the game of performance that if you aren't spending $400+ for a peice at this performance level then you are getting a cheaply made part.

Good buzz words to look for are: "metal thrust washers" or "torrington roller bearings", "furnace brazed", "hardened hub". Add "anti-balloning plates" if you want a real strong unit or are going to hit it with Nitrous.

Last I knew Jeg'sbrand converters were made by TCI, don't khow about Summit's. The sat nite special and break-a-ways are cheap, the street fighter and holeshot or "super "versions of these are all right.

If you really want a good converter find out from the racers or speed shop near you who they use locally who builds race converters, you can get a better match to exactly what you need that way. My guy in Eaton Rapids Mi is JPT - Jim's Performance Transmission, a super Stock racer and race trans and converter builder. He is a little eccentric to talk to but really knows his stuff.

[frickenbored]

So it looks like this one is perfect for me. Even better that chart at the bottom of the page says this is a good torque converter for axle ratios from 3.73 to 4.88. I plan on eventually down the road swaping out my 4.10's for 4.88. It doesn't say it on the website but their magazine says that that torque converter also has anti-ballooning plates.