Not too impressed with shop's finessing repro door - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2005, 09:24 PM
Ripped's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: First RoadCourse Video
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Vancouver Canada
Posts: 360
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not too impressed with shop's finessing repro door

As you may have read in a previous post, the repro drivers door we got for the 'stang on the drivers side, did not fit very well.

The body man has finally got down to making it fit, but I'm not that impressed. There are three vertical/diagonal lines in the bottom 1/4 of the door skin, the top of the door inside the window lip has a couple kinks in it. Instead of the door being straight, it is now like a football field, with the striker end diving back down to meet the now welded 1/4 panel edge.

I know that he's not finished, and I'm not a body/metal man. But if it was that far off, a new door skin is only $80. We could not really reuse the old butchered doors, but after seeing this, I'd rather see the door skin cut off. Then try and make a better fit by twisting the inner door frame, and installing the skin once it all lines up better.
Am I off track here?
Anyway, I left him to finish the car, why we are going to end up bondoing all over a new door is beyond me

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2005, 04:47 AM
adtkart@aol.com
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 3,220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sounds to me like you may have picked the wrong shop/person to do your work. If the other work was done properly, and the door was that bad of a fit, it should have been returned. A reproduction door wil likely not fit as good as an original did. Keep in mind though, that an original door did not fit that good in the first place.

I personally do not weld anything in place without test fitting the other parts, and checking measurements. Unfortunately that is not always the case with other people. I have seen many times that "body men" have welded quarterpanel and rockers on, and then hung doors, only to have "fit" problems. They then want to modify doors and fenders to make them fit.

Now you are in a position where you either need to find someone that you have more confidence in, which maybe you should have gone to in the first place, to look at it, or let the guy finish it, and see how it looks.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2005, 06:00 AM
shine's Avatar
SPI Thug
 

Last journal entry: some progress
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: bluff dale texas
Posts: 2,780
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 256 Times in 202 Posts
i would hang an old door and check fit first. as it has been said , best to hang all parts while replacing panels.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2005, 07:47 AM
rrmccabe's Avatar
GM Muscle
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 53
Posts: 518
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ripped I see you have some pictures in your album. Can you add some of the door?

I am having a hard time following what you are saying.

A picture would help show the severity of what you are talking about.

Rich
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2005, 07:28 PM
Ripped's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: First RoadCourse Video
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Vancouver Canada
Posts: 360
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Okay I have added some "before" pics.
If you can now imagine; The rear of the door has been modifies as follows,
The top of the door was bent out along the exterior of the window felt line at the back
The bottom of the door has three diagonal bend lines in the door skin to push the bottom corner to meet the rear 1/4 panel.
The center scalop in the rear quarter has been moved in to meet the door.
The result of which, there is no longer a straight line. The end of the 1/4 at the scalop dives into the car as does the door.
The rear of the door meets the 1/4 at the bottom, but the center of the door at the rocker still bulges out.

I'll try and go by this weekend and take some more pics
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2005, 07:53 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pocono Mountains,Pa
Posts: 230
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I just bought repro doors for a 65 Mustang.I was going to make them fit.They are so messed up i said screw it and sent them back. Skins it will get.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2005, 08:13 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,915
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Shoddy, I opted for a skin on the drivers door of my first 65 mustang and I have been looking at the door shells from NPD, where did you get yours? I have heard some real horror stories about the fit of those doors so I called NPD and they assure me that what they have now fits better than those of a few years ago but I am still almost afraid to try them.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2005, 10:34 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pocono Mountains,Pa
Posts: 230
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I bought mine from Johns Mustang in Houston about a month ago.They said API on the box. I called NPD also.they said theres are made by Golden legion but their skins are made by API. I guess Golden Legion uses API skins?I don't know.But the drivers door is unusable.The pass. i may be able to work it. The gap at the bootom of the door to the rocker is about 1/2" and the peak at the top front of the door is round instaed of sharp.Also gap to the quarter is uneven. But my original pass. door frame is rotted beyond repair so a skin is not an option.Driver frame can be repaired so im going to repair it and skin it.At least i can put the skin on straight. Also NPD told me they had no complaints on their shells.I m going to call johns and see what they have to say.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2005, 04:43 AM
adtkart@aol.com
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 3,220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I didn't see in any of your photos where the left fender was on the car. When I stated that I test fit the parts, I meant all of the parts. Installing the door, with the fender off, when replacing the quarter, really tells you nothing. You can work all you want to get the door to fit the quarter, then install the fender, and find that everything is wrong. Some minor tweeking is normal, and sometimes with aftermarket or reproduction parts, a little more tweeking is called for. Unless the parts are "JUNK", they should not require that much work to make them fit properly.

I have seen many times that the problem with the fit of the parts is not the parts, but the installation. I have seen many times that someone has taken a "used" quarter panel and had to make modifications to make them fit. This is a quarter panel that fit another car fine. It was a problem with the way it was handled from the point of being removed and reinstalled, not the part itself. Having watched the whole process, I knew that there was going to be a problem several times, and pointed it out, just to be ignored. Sometimes some of it is the part, but some of the problem may be the process.

Try to get some good photos of the problems that you have. Try to get good lighting on the areas.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2005, 08:34 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,915
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Shoddy, The description of that door sounds like the first parts I bought back in 1989, two fenders that required a wedge shaped strip nearly 1" wide and 7" long to be removed from the top rear to reshape so the dang things would match the doors! These doors were still in factory alignment but the fenders still protruded nearly an inch when installed tight against the cowl and were nearly flat on top where they met the door, these things were junk and I mean big time! I can see where one could not fix a door like I fixed(cobbled) those fenders and that's why I am almost afraid to buy them until someone other than a salesman can recommend them.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 06:40 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,706
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I just talked with a shop yesterday that's been struggling with a repo first generation Mustang door, they ended up cutting the frame then twisting the shell and rewelding it. This one appears to have been twisted when the skin was installed. Talk about some junk! The gaps are way off also like it isn't square.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 09:22 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,915
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Bob, That's about what I figured. I have two 65's (64-1/2) and fortunately one is nearly rust free but the other has some inner shell rust damage that has been repaired on both doors with a new skin on the drivers door so I was considering new doors for both sides but now I think I will just stay with what I have.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 04:57 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pocono Mountains,Pa
Posts: 230
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bob thats what i did. I broke it loose where its spotwelded below the vent window and got the twist out. Before i did that the bottom of the door stuck out four inches. No lie. I got the twist out but there are to many other issues to deal with. The customer paid almost $300 for the door. He would have to pay me way to much time to make it work and the whole thing would be skimmed with bondo to correct the massive waves. Thats wrong for a new part. Mine isnt square either. Metal would have to be added/subtracted at the edges to correct the gaps. Plus the body lines are not close to being straight. Im going to repair the frame and install a skin.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 05:14 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,915
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Shoddy, FWIW I got the skin I used from NPD and it was a good fit with straight lines and about the only problem I had was the bottom corners were just a little too rounded but it was a minor thing that was an easy fix, other than that it was fine.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2005, 08:34 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pocono Mountains,Pa
Posts: 230
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the info.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Best ways to straighten a twisted repro door? Ripped Body - Exterior 13 07-04-2005 08:29 AM
"Bowed" deck lid cruzinTLT Body - Exterior 3 03-04-2005 10:24 PM
body parts fitting anyoldchevy Body - Exterior 10 02-20-2005 10:20 AM
Door Alignment Ron M Body - Exterior 2 08-21-2004 02:43 AM
Removing fenders? Jag Daddy Body - Exterior 3 11-26-2003 05:42 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:59 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.