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Old 01-28-2009, 08:22 PM
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Notching 1966 Mustang Shock Towers

Has anyone notched the 1966 Mustang shock towers while retaining the stock suspension components? I want to notch them for more clearance for a 351W to ease spark plug change and allow for a better header design. However on the shock tower there is some kind of reinforcement piece that i'm not sure is a good idea to cut through. Thanks for any info
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Old 01-29-2009, 07:29 AM
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I have not but on my daughters 66 we swapped to a MII and it works great. It lets you get rid of the towers almost completely.
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Old 01-29-2009, 07:49 AM
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Hi,

I am trying to avoid doing the mustang II. I just wanted to notch the towers to gain a little more clearance while keeping the stock suspension
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:16 AM
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mustang

I have seen a coil over mounted from the lower arm to " frame rail component" but don't know what other parts were used . You will probably find more info in the mustand-falcon fairlane web sites.
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:39 AM
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There are kits to remove the stock spring tower or you can make your own out of plate. Short answer, what you want to do has been done since the early sixties.
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Old 01-30-2009, 08:33 AM
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tower rework'

I think the factory sent the thunderbolt fairlanes to a private contractor shop to have the towers reworked so a 427 would fit. the factory also experimented with a flat torsion spring that replaced the strut rod so they could remove the coil springs and towers.
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Old 01-30-2009, 09:10 AM
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It's been done literally 1000s of times, I have done it at least 5. If you want a simple and easy way, you might contact Crites Restoration (google it), they do a lot of pieces for various model Ford performance cars including Thunderbolts.
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Old 01-30-2009, 10:27 AM
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Shown is the Crites Kit on a 64 COMET-
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ
Shown is the Crites Kit on a 64 COMET-
Hi Kultulz now that is a good picture. So this person reworked the towers and replicated the factory setup? It looks like it was flattened. I still see holes for the a-arm..this car still has the factory like suspension setup?
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:46 AM
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Yes, it uses the same A-Arms in the same position. All you are doing is making extra room for a larger engine.
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:09 AM
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the kit to cut the towers is available from most any of the 50? mustang resto-parts houses around the country...

probably 3-4 within driving distance?
66Mustang=66Falcon=66Comet same unibody so check for those local resto-parts houses also....

gooogle some common restoration parts: "1966 Mustang fender California" (whatever) and they will all show up with online catalogs...

there are some stock 351W manifolds that do flow ok if this is a street build???

not the greatest plan, but just minor shims on the motor mounts pads makes a world of difference for stock manifolds or headers to towers clearances....
(remember the 351W is taller so check hood clearance)
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Old 02-01-2009, 09:14 PM
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Problem is most of the shock tower notch kits are made for converting to Mustang II front suspension. I haven't found one that notches it and keeps the stock suspension. I'm guessing its because there is that reinforcement piece that is welded to the shock tower sheet metal.
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Old 02-02-2009, 06:07 AM
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There are kits out there (and the repl plate can be fabbed), both size reduction kits (CRITES) and apron reinf. kits as used on the later 1968 1/2 CJ MUST.

The MUST II is not actually a plate but just a sheet metal filler as the apron rails/sub frame now carries the stress on the MUST II conversion.

If the THUNDERBOLT took the pressure, any conversion would take the pressure.
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Old 02-02-2009, 10:07 AM
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re-phrase Kultulz' info?

your confusing:
ONLY "notching" to eliminate the convex bubble and slope in front of the actual stock arms mount point plane..

(here's a "notched" 66' pic with a 351C which is even bigger than a 351W)
here's a "notched" tower piece install video that says it is bent for a early stang (RSS USA may be the stang parts houses supplier?)

http://www.motorator.com/videos/33

with:
totally eliminating the inner tower on a steering/suspension swap....
where you drill out the welds, remove the whole piece....
bolt in a flat plate....

I strongly suggest you do add torque boxes (!!!!) and the export brace and the monte carlo bar...

351W is alot more TQ stresses and more weight on everything up front,,,
the unibody was designed for strength and weight based on a 100hp six motor as a Falcon....

there are headers designed for your swap,,,JBA and others but plug access will be tight....
(only takes a couple of minutes to loosen the motor mounts and use a small bottle jack to tilt or lift the motor some and "customize" a spark plug socket so it works)
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Last edited by red65mustang; 02-02-2009 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 02-02-2009, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang

I strongly suggest you do add torque boxes (!!!!) and the export brace and the monte carlo bar...
And sub-frame connectors!

One does not measure engine torque by how quickly the windshield is spitted out and how far it will fly...
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