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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2006, 12:36 PM
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Brookville Trunk lid

This is the Brookville trunk lid after just using the long boards. I started with a 17" but went to my 10"just to get as much primer off as possible. I'll remove the rest with short blocks, epoxy, 2K, skim fill the entire surface, block and eventually paint. How do you spell high/low ???

I'm using this thread to illustrate to a potential Brookville body purchaser what he may have to go thru to make the body surface good enough to paint. It does NOT describe the rest of the lengthy list of problems found. It is not a project that someone with little bodywork/assembly experience should undertake lightly as there are a lot of construction details that have to be considered, all of which eat your time - Brookville does not make it easy, regardless of their advertising.

More coming

Dave
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Old 09-11-2006, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
I'll remove the rest with short blocks, epoxy, 2K, skim fill the entire surface, block and eventually paint. How do you spell high/low ???



Dave
What 2K primer are you using? Be carefull if you plan to skim over a urethane surfacer as it will require the primer to be well cured and sanded. Polyester products are better applied over epoxy primer or other polyester products.


Dave, Looking at your decklid you could tackle it a couple different ways. I'd start with getting the metal as close as possible with a hammer/dolly, spoon and shrinking disc... or if these low areas really aren't that bad just shoot two coats of epoxy primer and allow it to set overnight. The next day you could shoot 2-3 coats of polyester primer and see just what blocks out or use your regular bodyfiller over the epoxy. Finish up with another coat of epoxy followed by a urethane surfacer for the final sandings.
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Old 10-04-2006, 05:46 PM
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Haven't posted on this for a while

I finally got ALL of the relevant Brookville primer off on Sunday 10/1 - and probably had a bushel basket full of used up sand paper from 60 sheet to 60 and 100 DA,80 long board, a 1/2 gallon thinner and even a cheapy HF sand blaster for a couple of impossible corners. This body has a lot of "factory defects", many more than described, but I'm charging on and have primed the backside of about 50% of the separate parts and pieces to use up my Nason Ful-Poxy. Now on to my SPI epoxy tomorrow - hope it works as well as the Nason, tho have little doubt that it will be better. I need to get the splash shields final painted as well as the gas tank. If these are painted, then I can prime the body, assemble to the frame so I can wire and final plumb. I can then mask it off and BC/CC in the spring (we are running out of acceptable warm painting weather). Probably will need a couple more quarts of SPI epoxy tho - but Baker ships fairly quickly

As a note, I got a quote from a local custom painter to just shoot the BC/CC and wet sand. No priming, no filler, no sealing - just take my paint and shoot the car and wet sand, no final assembly and to be finished NLT April 15, 2007 for me to put together - 6 to 7000 dollars. Guess it may not get painted for a while if the weather doesn't hold - way way out of my budget.

My wife will be happy to become reacquainted again tho so I can return to doing some honey-doos, among other things .

Dave
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Old 10-04-2006, 06:09 PM
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I have to agree I am not certain you need the RAGE. I don't remember feeling a Brookville body at the last Goodguys because I just ran from booth to booth feeling the metal bodies for this very reason, so see how straight they were. I found every single one of them to be VERY rough. However, other than just a few spots I don't think any of them would need more than a skim coat of polyester putty like Evercoats Metal Glaze, OR three or four coats of polyester primer.

I would think MOST of it could be epoxy primed, then polyester primer and block it.

Brian
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Old 10-04-2006, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
I have to agree I am not certain you need the RAGE. I don't remember feeling a Brookville body at the last Goodguys because I just ran from booth to booth feeling the metal bodies for this very reason, so see how straight they were. I found every single one of them to be VERY rough. However, other than just a few spots I don't think any of them would need more than a skim coat of polyester putty like Evercoats Metal Glaze, OR three or four coats of polyester primer.
I would think MOST of it could be epoxy primed, then polyester primer and block it.

Brian
Brian,
It will be epoxied and quite possibly skimmed with Rage and or 2K plus polyester putty - no polyester primer.

Both doors have major low areas on each side, the top of the rear quarters each have a low area of up to 1/8" deep and the trunk lid looks like it was assembled using the rounded end of a 2 pound ball pein hammer. The cowl cover has 2 major dents that need filling in an area that can't be dollyed.
Luckily, the cowl sides are fairly straight is the left quarter side and can probably be leveled easily. The right is a mess at the door opening - the quarter was flat - it had no curve at all when shipped to match the door and needed major and total reshaping. Actually the curve is better now than the left, but has some work marks and dings.

If I can level any of these areas without using filler I will, if for no other reason then I am just plain tired of 5 years of dinking around with this car - I want to be able to drive it next year sometime.

I had some problems with my camera. Photos of the rt door, trunk lid and left quarter top section are attached.

Dave
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