[shortblok]

Has anyone installed in a '46-48 Chevy. Any tips?? Should it be narrowed?? Suggestions appreciated. SHORTBLOK

[PRO 48 fleetline]

I think i can help you with this one i have a 48 fleetline that i have a pacer front end under works real well and fits nice too love to answer any ?'s you might have as for a nova front end i would not recomend the them nothinga round with them but theres better set ups to go with them Later George

[shortblok]

wHATABOUT A VOLARE FRONT END? I FOUND AN OLD ARTICLE ON INSTALLATION OF THIS SET UP.. WHAT YEAR PACER FRONT END DO I NEED TO LOOK FOR THANKS FOR THE HELP. PAUL PS PICTURES WILL BE UP SUNDAY WHEN THE PROJECT ARRIVES.

[home brew]

I had a friend who used the Pacer under his 50 AD sedan delivery. Great ride and a pleasure to drive.

The AMC Pacer was produced from 1975 to 1980. Some parts are hard to find but so are some for the Volare. Buy two of everything that may wear out when you find them and you will have enough for as long as your ride survives.

[PRO 48 fleetline]

Id put a Mustang II in it I bought my car as a not finished project and i love the set up but mustang parts are VERY easy to come by and affordable aswell plus its an easy instal in these cars theres many companys that make the direct fit kits for these i can get the info to you if interested

[redsdad]

Mustang II. I have a TCI unit in mine. Requires some welding. And I am going to put in extra braces.

[Chopt 48]

I've done the rear steering Nova subframe on a 48 coupe and it isn't that hard to do. The thing is I don't think I would do it again .
Reason one, It is quite bulky and you have to trim the daylights out of the inner fender wells.

If you do do it. Level the frame of the car at the height you want it to ride at.

This is level front to back and side to side. At this point you aren't concerned with rake you just want the stub to match up and work correctly.

Set the stub up at "it's" stock ride height at the center of the crossmember.
I used a block of wood the right size to block it up. That is usually about 6-1/2 inches but could vary with different tires.
The stub has to set so that the bottom of the legs out back are level.
The idea here is to mark the stub so you will know that it is level and square when you attatch it to the early frame.
You have to make your cuts on both stub and frame to best make them fit together. You also have to do the cuts so that the wheel base remains correct. slide them together and get the right fit. you can tack them together remeasure and after you get them welded fairly solid you can put the car back up in the air on stands and do the finish welding.

This will require a lot of measuring and having reference points marked

I've had three different rigs that I have subframed with the rear steer Nova/Camaro stubs and the 51 Merc is the only one I would do again. That stub fit perfectly but with the other two I wasn't quite happy. The 48 coupe was a pain to make sheetmetal and what not fit. The 48 Pickup drove fantastic, I put around 100k on that chassis but I didn't like the way it looked nor the way things fit up to it.

If I were to do it again I would spring for one of the aftermarket Mustang II style crossmember kits. There are even a couple that are bolt on for the guys who don't have a welder. Two guys can easily do that sway in a day start to finish.

If not the M II I would go with one of the other previous recomendations. The main reason is final fit of components. You don't have to battle with bumper brackets, radiator support brackets or changing style of radiators because the original one won't fit up to the Nova stub. either of those should just take a bit of tinsnip work on the inner fender wells to make everything fit up an away you go.

What I am really trying to say is that in the long run you will be way happier retaining the stock frame and attatching newer crossmember to it than chopping it off and welding on a Nova stub.


Measure your cut