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Old 07-05-2013, 11:38 PM
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novice buffer

I just recently got done painting my 62 vw ragtop with the help of widetrack 69 and a couple of others. I have moved onto colorsanding and buffing. I would like to pass on some of the mistakes I made as a total beginner. First thing was using way to much compound. I am using meguiars 85 with a wool pad followed up by meguiars 83 with a foam pad. I would still have sanding scratches after I was done. Widetrack 69 told me to turn my speed up and that helped. I also found that I was using to much compound. I found that it is important to keep the bonnet dry. It seems that the minute that there was any leftover compound on the pad the performance deteriorated. I found that using a paper towel to apply the compound made it easier to apply a uniform thin coat. I did the same thing with the foam pad and the 83. I finally have no sanding scratches. I also bought a spur for cleaning a fluffin the wool pad. If any of you guys that do this full time have anything to add please do. I know some of this is very basic but I really frustrated myself.........Steve

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Old 07-06-2013, 12:21 AM
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I have no idea why they call it the "Compound power cleaner" http://www.meguiars.com/en/professio...cleaner-1-gal/ but I have found this stuff to work like magic. It takes VERY little to get the job done. As far as application, squirting some on then running the buffer slowly (hitting the trigger then letting it slow down) to spread the compound out works for me.

Brian
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Old 07-06-2013, 11:24 AM
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I like to use Meguiar's ultimate compound, it cuts fast.
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Old 07-06-2013, 11:44 AM
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I need to do a couple of mine, but am afraid of ruining the paint. How easy is it to cut completely thru and ruin everything?
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Old 07-06-2013, 11:56 AM
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In a word, yes it is easy. The biggest thing is to remember you don't need to sand it flat with the coarsest paper. If you have a lot of orange peel you can flatten it with 1200 and not sand all the peel off, just sand it flat leaving some. Then when you go to the next grit, say 1500 that you can sand more of the peel off...along with the 1200 grit scratches which is why you need to do up to the 1500 right? But if you sand it flat removing all orange peal with the 1200, you are sanding more material off just to remove the scratches, why do that when you can leave a tiny bit of texture and remove that little texture, along with the 1200 scratches with the 1500. You can do the same with the 2000.

Don't sand anywhere near the edges of body lines, you do NOT need to remove all the texture near body lines or edges of panels because the buffer is going to be more aggressive there anyway. The buffer will be more aggressive there whether you like it or not, it WILL be, so don't remove any more than you have to as the buffer will be cutting more there anyway.

Do some tests and "cut" (sand) and buff on the conservative side leaving some peel. You can always cut and buff it a little more, but it's pretty hard to go backwards if you cut too much!

Just be conservative and you will be fine.

Brian
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssimpala View Post
I need to do a couple of mine, but am afraid of ruining the paint. How easy is it to cut completely thru and ruin everything?
Much depends on how material you have that is "cutable" and if it's base clear or not. If it's a single stage solid color, then again, it depends on how much material you have. For example, when I'm doing a job that I know I will be color sanding and polishing, I apply 5 coats of clear. With this amount of material the chances of cutting through when sanding or burning through when polishing is much less. If you have the standard 2 coats of clear or 2 coats of a single stage solid color it is very easy to "cut" through, especially on edges. Extreme care should always be taken.

If your trying to cut and buff a single stage metallic...don't...all you will do is end up knocking the tops off the metallic's and be looking at a repaint.

Hope this answers your question.

Ray
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:00 PM
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Good stuff Ray, I should first know what the guy is buffing right!

Brian
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Old 07-06-2013, 05:53 PM
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I've got three coats of clear and a little orange peel. It looks good from a few feet but could look a lot better, or a lot worse if I screw it up. I think maybe I'll leave it to a professional.
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Old 07-06-2013, 07:03 PM
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Polishing can be an art, especially on darker colors...and costly if you burn through, it may be a good idea to either leave it alone or have a person with experience give you hand...that way you can get experience and that's always good for future jobs...I know I've burnt through when polishing and it is a PITA.

Ray
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Old 07-06-2013, 07:41 PM
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thanks for starting this thread, good info.
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:49 PM
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I guess I should have put in my original post that I was using ss acrylic enamel. I did have plenty of material to work with. I made a few errors and ended up with several coats of paint. i am glad that martinsr explained about not going flat with the original sanding. Had i not had so much material i might have taken to much off......Steve
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:09 AM
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for being a beginner this kit worked out great for me! have done 3 cars now and not one burn thru System 51 Pro Kit (cardboard box) : System 51



I'm sure there's a lot better stuff out there, but ive had good luck with it. kit also comes with all the pads
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:13 AM
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thats looks very nice
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:53 AM
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By the way these were both garage paint jobs with no booth. They had some orange peel.
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