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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2011, 05:29 PM
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All disassembled, found some wear & tear on the rear band and on a smaller plastic type ring that sits in behind the sprag housing, also what looks like a piece missing of the modulator valve.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2011, 07:32 AM
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OK! got my rebuild kit and i'am now going through inspecting the parts for damage and wear, I also have my ATSG manual to hand which is helping a lot with parts ID. I now know that the small chamfer on the mod valve is supposed to be there (see above pic), but the Rear Reaction Drum Spacer is showing a lot of signs of wear (see pic) and more worring is the damage to the Sun Gear Shaft also what seems to be a sealing ring or something that is broken (see pic)....the odd thing is it is not listed in the exploded view of parts in the ATSG manual, it shows the shaft and the bushings for either end of the shaft but NOT that ring....I think I should buy a new SGS?....
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Last edited by BBC; 05-08-2011 at 07:46 AM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2011, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBC
OK! got my rebuild kit and i'am now going through inspecting the parts for damage and wear, I also have my ATSG manual to hand which is helping a lot with parts ID. I now know that the small chamfer on the mod valve is supposed to be there (see above pic), but the Rear Reaction Drum Spacer is showing a lot of signs of wear (see pic) and more worring is the damage to the Sun Gear Shaft also what seems to be a sealing ring or something that is broken (see pic)....the odd thing is it is not listed in the exploded view of parts in the ATSG manual, it shows the shaft and the bushings for either end of the shaft but NOT that ring....I think I should buy a new SGS?....

there should be no ring on the sun gear tube at the splines.

the plastic ring inside the planetary unit = toss it in the trash.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2011, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosley
there should be no ring on the sun gear tube at the splines.

the plastic ring inside the planetary unit = toss it in the trash.
Hi Crosley, thanks for the reply....any ideas why on earth is there a ring on there now? also whats your opinion on the Shaft damage...should I replace it as well as the Drum Spacer?
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2011, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBC
Hi Crosley, thanks for the reply....any ideas why on earth is there a ring on there now? also whats your opinion on the Shaft damage...should I replace it as well as the Drum Spacer?

Polish the shaft with 320 grit paper, prefer in a lathe to spin the shaft. Check in new bushing in the center support. Looks like it may be OK.

The ring there on the shaft near splines may be a goof by a DIY person some where. Hard to say from the photo

the plastic silencer ring will break apart and clog the filter. Seen that several times
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosley
Polish the shaft with 320 grit paper, prefer in a lathe to spin the shaft. Check in new bushing in the center support. Looks like it may be OK.

The ring there on the shaft near splines may be a goof by a DIY person some where. Hard to say from the photo

the plastic silencer ring will break apart and clog the filter. Seen that several times
Thanks a bunch for your help mate.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2011, 07:30 PM
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Ok! had an interesting today dismantling my VB cleaning inspecting & rebuilding it, then on to my direct clutch assembly and front pump using the new parts in my rebuild kit, no particular order here just picking up the first piece that comes to hand.
I now have my rebuild DVD so that coupled with the ATSG manual and I gotta say I'm covered, then while rebuilding the VB I found that I was unable to reinstall one of the accumulator valves as per the diagram in the manual, the only way it would fit all the way home and allow the retaining pin to be installed was to assemble it the reverse of the manual (see pic) the pressure valve on the front pump had a spacer missing but I was able to make one from a washer & just cut a piece out of it (see pic) I don't have the special tool to compress the return springs but found my Quick Grips worked well.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2011, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBC
Ok! had an interesting today dismantling my VB cleaning inspecting & rebuilding it, then on to my direct clutch assembly and front pump using the new parts in my rebuild kit, no particular order here just picking up the first piece that comes to hand.
I now have my rebuild DVD so that coupled with the ATSG manual and I gotta say I'm covered, then while rebuilding the VB I found that I was unable to reinstall one of the accumulator valves as per the diagram in the manual, the only way it would fit all the way home and allow the retaining pin to be installed was to assemble it the reverse of the manual (see pic) the pressure valve on the front pump had a spacer missing but I was able to make one from a washer & just cut a piece out of it (see pic) I don't have the special tool to compress the return springs but found my Quick Grips worked well.
with the yellow TransGo pressure spring, the spacer is removed from the valve
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-11-2011, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosley
with the yellow TransGo pressure spring, the spacer is removed from the valve
Doh! I was proud of my spacer fab work....the spring has the remainder of a pale green type of color, it's odd, because this tranny is supposed to have had a shift kit yet it has all six CB's, so I became doubfull of that yet I can see that the hole's have been made bigger on the VB plate....and drilled quite badly at an angle.
Thanks once again for your knowledge mate.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2011, 08:07 AM
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Today I found no inner lip seal on the direct clutch ...i'm really glad i'm doing this rebuild, and something else has got me concerned, but I need advice again...on the rebuild DVD the guy states that on much later model 400's both the forward & direct drum pistons look like we see them in the video(see pic) and for those you need a "dished plate" to go in first(see pic)
Well I have a 73 400 which isn't late model and both my pistons look like that but in my rebuild kit there are no such dished plates, only two wave plates, should I order said plates or just go with whats in the kit??
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Last edited by BBC; 05-12-2011 at 08:18 AM.
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Old 05-12-2011, 06:13 PM
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no seal in the drum is a normal modification for double feeding the direct drum which gives more clamping force however its only part of the process the hole to the right of the intermediate apply (with rings facing up) has to be plugged and well as the 3rd sealing ring from the bottom of the support has to be left out. if the mod has been done right and you install this seal back in the drum you will have more issues take a pic of center support and post it
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2011, 08:00 PM
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that scalloped dish plate is prone to break at the scallop. On that design of aluminum piston, I install a thick (.090) flat plate first on top of the piston in the direct drum. Then a friction and follow the same process till proper clearance is set.

In the forward drum, i install a thick flat plate first and use waved plates between the frictions as I set up the drum. The waved plates provides the cushion during the clutch apply in place of the dished plate
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Old 05-13-2011, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosley
that scalloped dish plate is prone to break at the scallop. On that design of aluminum piston, I install a thick (.090) flat plate first on top of the piston in the direct drum. Then a friction and follow the same process till proper clearance is set.

In the forward drum, i install a thick flat plate first and use waved plates between the frictions as I set up the drum. The waved plates provides the cushion during the clutch apply in place of the dished plate
Crosley in the ATSG it desribes putting in first the waved or cushion plate followed by a steel then a friction, but on the DVD it shows him putting in first the wave but then followed by the friction...when I took it apart there was a wave then a steel then the friction, same as the manual....what's the right way?? also in the forward clutch he states that you should use four thin steels and the wave plate, I did this and had way to much end play so I reversed it (4 thick 1 wave) and I was within the suggested .010 -.030 clearence. Man I'm confussed..!! I want this to be right.
And the pics for TPG....
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2011, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBC
Crosley in the ATSG it desribes putting in first the waved or cushion plate followed by a steel then a friction, but on the DVD it shows him putting in first the wave but then followed by the friction...when I took it apart there was a wave then a steel then the friction, same as the manual....what's the right way?? also in the forward clutch he states that you should use four thin steels and the wave plate, I did this and had way to much end play so I reversed it (4 thick 1 wave) and I was within the suggested .010 -.030 clearence. Man I'm confussed..!! I want this to be right.
And the pics for TPG....
you can mix flat plate thickness to provide needed clearance.

Waved plate against the aluminum piston would be fine, I just do it differently with thick plate first against the piston of that design.

Is your waved plate a shiney steel plate or a black coated plate? Usually the black coated wave plate is thinner. use that one against the piston , then thick plate
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2011, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Crosley
Is your waved plate a shiney steel plate or a black coated plate? Usually the black coated wave plate is thinner. use that one against the piston , then thick plate
Not black, it's shiney steel, but it is definatley thinner....i'll go with that then.

Thanks again mate.
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