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Old 09-30-2006, 09:23 PM
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Now What? I need help guys!

I have a master below the floorboard on my 40 ford 327 with disc front and drum rears. I had adequate braking before my car sat for about 5 weeks while getting upholstered. When I got the car back I noticed I had hardly any brakes. I was told that since I did not install a 2lb residual to the front brakes the fluid drained back to the master. I installed the 2 lb around 6-8 inches from the master and bled the brakes---all four of them, several times. I still have no brake pedal and now when I step on the brake hard to stop, the pedal sticks to the floor and I have to literally lift it with my foot. What could have gone wrong? I ensured the master never lacked brake fluid during the bleeding, I don't have any leaks in any of the brake lines. The only thing I did different was add the 2lb residual and close off one of the ports from the combination valve. Before, I used both ports on the valve to run a line to the left and right front wheel. This time, I come off the combo valve with one line into a brake tee and tee off to each front wheel. Therefore, I plugged off one of the front wheel ports on the combo valve. The remote filled master has a 15/16 in. bore. What can I try next?
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Old 09-30-2006, 09:44 PM
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I havent done this yet but it sounds to me the plumbing is right! I think those valves or directional, might check that , if there wildwood there may be a issue, alot of bad reports. Maybe the master needs attention. Good luck.
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Old 09-30-2006, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trifivefan

I installed the 2 lb around 6-8 inches from the master and bled the brakes---all four of them, several times. I still have no brake pedal and now when I step on the brake hard to stop, the pedal sticks to the floor and I have to literally lift it with my foot.

The only thing I did different was add the 2lb residual and close off one of the ports from the combination valve. Before, I used both ports on the valve to run a line to the left and right front wheel. This time, I come off the combo valve with one line into a brake tee and tee off to each front wheel. Therefore, I plugged off one of the front wheel ports on the combo valve. The remote filled master has a 15/16 in. bore. What can I try next?
DRUM/DRUM, DISC/DRUM, DISC/DISC, POWER/MANUAL, TYPE of M/C and COMBINATION VALVE?
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Old 10-01-2006, 10:13 AM
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Now what? I need help guys!

Hi Kultulz:
My car has a power front disc/rear drum setup using a 7in dual diaphram and remote filled master cylinder that sits beneath the floor. The combination valve is for disc/drum applications and has a metering valve and proportioning valve in one unit. I have a 10 lb residual to the rear and 2 lb to the front. The remote filled master is 15/16 in bore size. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:14 PM
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Check the master cylinder.It sounds like it is sucking air in when you let up on the pedal.I just put a motor in my friends 92 Chevy 1500it only sat for 6 weeks and the new master cylinder he put in a few months before developed a flat spot on the rubber piston cup inside and allowed air into the system when you let up on the brake pedal.A rebuild kit cured the problem.Also check the hose between the reservoir and the master.Air may be getting into the system there.As for the pedal sticking my 58 had that problem and I just loosened the bolt that holds the pedal arm to the connecting arm and turned it back to strait.If it turns at all it will wedge against the side of the hole in the floor and stick down.it probably has been on crocked for years but was never a problem because it usually never goes all the way to the floor.
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Old 10-02-2006, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trifivefan
  • My car has a power front disc/rear drum setup using a 7in dual diaphram and remote filled master cylinder that sits beneath the floor.

  • The combination valve is for disc/drum applications and has a metering valve and proportioning valve in one unit. I have a 10 lb residual to the rear and 2 lb to the front. The remote filled master is 15/16 in bore size. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Quote:
    Originally Posted by trifivefan 09-30-2006 11:23 PM

    I have a master below the floorboard on my 40 ford 327 with disc front and drum rears.

  • I had adequate braking before my car sat for about 5 weeks while getting upholstered. When I got the car back I noticed I had hardly any brakes. I was told that since I did not install a 2lb residual to the front brakes the fluid drained back to the master.

  • I installed the 2 lb around 6-8 inches from the master and bled the brakes---all four of them, several times. I still have no brake pedal and now when I step on the brake hard to stop, the pedal sticks to the floor and I have to literally lift it with my foot.

  • I ensured the master never lacked brake fluid during the bleeding, I don't have any leaks in any of the brake lines. The only thing I did different was add the 2lb residual and close off one of the ports from the combination valve.

  • Before, I used both ports on the valve to run a line to the left and right front wheel. This time, I come off the combo valve with one line into a brake tee and tee off to each front wheel. Therefore, I plugged off one of the front wheel ports on the combo valve. The remote filled master has a 15/16 in. bore.
OK. DOUBLEDICK (sounds like a two-peckered toad in mating system ) makes a good suggestion-failed M/C. But what confuses me is the pedal sticking.

I am assuming the booster/master cylinder/combination valve was a complete kit (with adequate instructions to install it properly, or is this a combination of take-off parts?

You said origionally you had adequate brakes? Either you have good brakes or don't. You said origionally, the metering valve portion of the combination valve had two outlets and you only used one with the installation of the 2 lb residual valve. Did everything start at this point?

You do have the front calipers installed on the correct side and the bleeders pointed straight up to eliminate the air in the front circuit entirely?

I would start by bench bleeding the M/C again (this can be done on the car) and if necessary pivot the caliper so that the, bleeder valve is pointing directly upwards to allow all air to be expelled from the front circuit. Ascertain correct pushrod adjustment and brake pedal linkage operation (and ratio) (no binding) to see if that is contributing to the pedal sticking to the floor. You may also want to remove the booter assist (vacuum signal) to see if the hydraulics are working properly (test only-no drive)

Who supplied the proprtioning valve and is it's bias set to your chassis weight?

Both illustrations show under-floor mounting;



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Old 10-04-2006, 11:04 AM
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brake help

Before you get too carried away, start simple. Had a similar problem and chased it for days. Turns out the little crossover passage on one caliper was holding an air bubble. The pedal would go to the floor like the MC was bad.
Unbolted the caliper and tilted the bleeder straight up and bled it. Problem solved.
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