OD trans for 68 wagon. 200 vs 700? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 01-07-2005, 11:54 PM
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OD trans for 68 wagon. 200 vs 700?

i just picked up a 68 impala wagon with a 350 vortec motor out of a truck and the stock powerglide. i dont mind the powerglide except its on the way out. it slips really bad between shifts and the engine revs up very noticably. i want to swap in a 2004r or a 700r4. what would be a better trans for this. the motor is stock, but with a edelbrock intake and hei ignition.

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Old 01-08-2005, 12:39 AM
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I would use the 200 due to it's ease of install. Should bolt in place of the Glide, move the crossmember back, same drivesahft and yoke. Setup TV system.

The 700 would also work but will require driveshaft mods in addition.


In a near stock application, either can work great.
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Old 01-08-2005, 12:55 AM
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what are some easy cheap mods i can do to the 2004r to strenghthen it and firm up the shifts? i plan on doin a rebuild with new clutches, steels and band(s).
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Old 01-08-2005, 01:05 AM
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I would be sure it has the hardened sun shell and stator, chromoly pump rings, Alto Red Eagle band, TransGo reprogramming kit (will include boost valves), and I would use a GN servo.

Other than that nothing crazy is necessary for a mild combo.
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Old 01-08-2005, 01:07 AM
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thank you, any idea on where i can get the parts or a estimate on the cost of the parts?
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Old 01-08-2005, 01:09 AM
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www.bulkpart.com

About $30 for the hardened pieces, $30 for the band, $10 for the chromoly pump rings (TransGo), $90 for the TransGo kit, ~$100 for rebuild items.
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Old 01-08-2005, 01:11 AM
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thank you very much. ive been searchin the internet for that info for a few days now. once again, thanks.
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Old 01-08-2005, 01:12 AM
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No problem!
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Old 01-08-2005, 01:16 AM
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another question. are the kolene steels worth the $$?
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Old 01-08-2005, 01:19 AM
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No.

for your purposes the stock steels are great....

If you want to add some capacity you can machine the OD piston down ~.070" and add one friction clutch, it already has the steels double stacked. So no additional steel is necessary, just order a single smotoh tan friction. Borg Warner or the Alto Tan work great.
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Old 01-08-2005, 01:21 AM
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hmm. another option. ill see if i can get somone good to mill it down, if not then i guess it will be fine.
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Old 01-08-2005, 01:27 AM
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It is a PITA to put in a lathe and cut. A belt type surfacing machine might work...

The one time I tried to cut one in a lathe, I ended up using a die grinder and just tried my best to keep a steady hand.... The cutter would make it chatter off the machine.

It is sheetmetal and not like doing an aluminum piston.

I did my last one with a grinder

Set it on the ground, and grind the lip down as evenly as possible, checking with a caliper often to keep it even.

When you get it close, turn it over and "surface" it on a rough concrete surface like a driveway/sidewalk.

Then smooth up any burrs with sandpaper, etc..

This sounds like a caveman way to do things but as a machinist I can testify it came out better than using machinery....

And easier...
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Old 01-08-2005, 09:00 AM
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Cool

Good answers here.


I like to dual feed the direct clutch pack in the 200-4r for heavier vehicles.

Grinding down the steel OD apply piston for another friction is something to be real careful with.


If you mess up, make sure you have another piston on hand .
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Last edited by Crosley; 01-08-2005 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 01-08-2005, 10:18 PM
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Tony,
Have you had any forward drum breakage problems dual feeding?

I've never dual fed the 200 without a billet drum because I've heard they are almost guaranteed to break then...

I do believe dual feeding IS the fix, just too scared to do it on a stock drum...
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