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Old 05-19-2005, 10:01 PM
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OEM mustangII specs/drawings???

im hoping to find tech specs on the subframe so i can begin a frame drawing in Autodesk Inventor.

the goal is a full cage roadster (z3 pannels) much
like ffr spec racer.

i am LOW budget. will want to use salvage yard parts. ok so thats the plan.

the first step will be to connect the front asembly to the axle linkage with about 96" inbetween (perimeter frame) PLEASE HELP THANXS
scott

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Old 05-20-2005, 07:47 AM
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Hmm . . I'm not sure what you want. MIIs don't have anything like a sub-frame. The front suspension consists of a modular axle X-member that is permanently spot welded to the front sheet metal. I really doubt you will find anyone with factory dimensioned drawings. However you are not out of luck. Since you are junk yard hound like me, simply go there and get an X-member and reverse engineer it yourself!
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Old 05-21-2005, 05:57 PM
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which car did that one come from?
what are the models/years i want for best performance? ie big brakes but not $$$
19__-19__ model _____, ______

for the bonejarring gokart of a ride i want
should the unit be tilted for king pin angle?

i am tring to learn fast as i can but its difficult to find unconventional roadster builds.

i want a no frill, canyon carving, underdog, yuppie killing beast!!!!!!! to some degree i feel
a devine entity as called upon me to constuct such
a vehicle.:-P

is the matching mustang 8.8 4 link especially difficult to locate? are they all LSD? we cant be having a single sided burnout.

im not sure as to how im going to
aqquire a BMW Z3 body.....but wouldnt it look great with matt black sidepipes?!?!?!

really i want the hood and f fenders the rear is kinda weak, so prolly be glassing up my own vision for it.
im genna go hunt for more info
THANX FOR YOUR TIME idiot w/mig

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Old 05-22-2005, 12:35 AM
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You can get the basic suspension from any ~'84-'88 Mustang II, Pinto or Bobcat. Only significant difference is some are manual steering gear and some are power and how the rear strut rod brackets are mounted. The one in the picture is from a V8 '84 or '85 MII. I like them because they have the separate bolt-on strut rod X-member whereas other models have the strut rods mounted in a pocket in the fender wells. Another significant difference is the strength of the springs - there are several versions from the 4-banger to the V8.

Very easy to mount, just set the chassis @ ride stance and weld in the X-member with the center beam level with the ground. Don't mess with the geometry, it is excellent from the factory. Springs are sized last with full weight on the car the lower A-arms should be level with the ground.
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Old 05-22-2005, 08:41 PM
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sweet. thats the unit then. good. so then what about that rear axle the stock system good?

what happens to the realtionship when you bring
the 2 oem assemblys closer together by 10" im
surley going to shorten the wheelbase by using that gear under a little roadster...........
any adverse effects?? anyway to "adjust" for it??

thanx willys, ill post my proj soon as im welding......this is genna rule.

ANYBODY ELSE KNOW OF NON-KIT ROADSTER BUILDS???
thanx again, scott
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Old 05-22-2005, 09:55 PM
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I have used several MII, Torino, etc., 8" rears in rods. They are very nice uints and are fine for all but the most powerful engines. Just find one that is the right width. We even found one that fit a tiny '42 willys pickup frame perfectly. In fact all we had to do was narrow the spring pads to fit the 1 3/4" Willys leaf springs. We left one sid of the bracket attached to the axle from the factory, split the bracket, cut it off the axles on the too-wide side, narrowed it and welded it back to the half the was left on.
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Old 05-24-2005, 12:56 AM
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I think 84 to 88 is suppose to be 74 to 78. My question is, is it hard to seperate the x member from the sheetmetal?
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Old 05-24-2005, 07:42 AM
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Yes I meant 74-78! Dang Alzheimer's anyway. Yes it does take quite a bit of arm waiving to get the fender wells off the X-member. See the X-member in the picture and note all the drilled out spot welds. Must be about 100 of them. Just torch the fender wells close to the X-member and then use a 3/8" drill bit ot drill out the spot welds. Probably a 1/2 hour job at most, no biggie.
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Old 05-24-2005, 07:56 AM
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Why Mustang II?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lobuck carwerks

i am tring to learn fast as i can but its difficult to find unconventional roadster builds.

i want a no frill, canyon carving, underdog, yuppie killing beast!!!!!!! to some degree i feel
a devine entity as called upon me to constuct such
a vehicle.:-P
This quote makes me a wonder - Are you really sure you want to use an MII setup? Rodders like them because they are compact, but I'm not so sure they are the best IFS to model a corner-carver after. In fact, a less compact setup may be better as longer links generally equates to less camber change and roll center movement with body roll and/or suspension compression/extension. Not to mention, using that front with an altered wheelbase is going to mess up the Ackerman geometry at the very least, though some would argue that Ackerman is less important when it comes to high speed handling.

If you are planning to build the whole thing from scratch, you might want to look into doing the same with the suspension. Some time with some design software and a couple of good books on the subject could make all the difference in the world.

My $0.02
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Old 05-25-2005, 03:11 AM
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cool its getting active now.
thanx for the edit & brave theory

Im still wondering about model 4,6,8 cyln and year
variations in design and options...

the 4 version is rear steer and im not thinking its
prolly the weakest in brakes. or am i wrong?

the 6 lacks a anti roll bar? but might be the manual steering i want. still is it as HD as the 8?

the 8 is power steering,anti roll, and ____?

how picky are the strut rod mount points? i think
i can fab those...yeah? if it would mean i could
us later 80's stuff.

i dont care about the stock spring rate, gotta get
fresh ones anyway.

AS FOR FULL I.F.S FABRICATION.....
i wouldnt trust my control arm welds, a frame can be gusseted as insurance. i dont have many precision tools, and stock parts a hell of a value.
why not recalibrate corvette gear? no where near my
budget.

what i also wonder is do the "cobra" makers change
the ford geometry? ok thanx guys scott
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Old 05-25-2005, 07:34 AM
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??? There are no significant design variations. The 4, 6, & 8 versions are identical except for strut rod rear mounts, spring rates, and type of gear - power or manual. Power gears are not limited to V8 models. Some didn't have roll bar from the factory but all can accept one and the bars are a 'dime a dozen' at the junk yard. For use on a rod, doesn't matter where you get your X-member, they all will work fine. Just nice to get one with all the doo-dads you want on your car. Yes, you can make your own strut rod brackets but DON'T weld them to stock frame rails. They absorb a bunch of stress and will crack off the frame every time. Weld the bracket to some 3/8" steel plates, well gusseted, and then bolt the plates to the frame w/ grade 8 fasteners. The pivot point of the strut rod must be directly in-line with the center of the lower A-arm pivot bolt.
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Old 05-25-2005, 02:16 PM
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While we are dicussing mII front ends, which springs do you think work best with a sbc with a somewhat heavy 671 blower on top? Also have you ever heard of any of those e-bay 2" drop spindles breaking?
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Old 05-25-2005, 03:16 PM
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There are several stock springs in the junk yards. I finally found that Pinto 4-banger springs were perfect for my buddie's '42 Willys pickup w/ SBC and TH400. I used whatever I had in the shop at the time (left over MII V8 springs maybe?) in my son's 'heavy nosed '36 Pontiac 4-dr sedan w/ 250 in-line 6. On the latter, we had to torch off one coil of the springs to get the bottom A-arms level and the nose down but that worked great and the ride was very smooth. Point is, just get a few different spring weights and try 'em. However, wait until the car is finished and fully weighed down before settling on a spring and especially before cutting coils off. Use both front and rear sway bars - they really make a difference on these front ends.
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Old 05-25-2005, 11:28 PM
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Lookie here.
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Old 05-26-2005, 06:07 PM
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tommarow i am junkyardin it, all im bringin is a tape,paper, and open mind....hmmm i feel a rant coming on, people are just weak today what happened
to the kid hotrodder....i guess its alive in ratrod
but why not cut new paths. queitly.... i dont think a lot of people understand how to navigate
the smog laws here in khali...hehe.....

i have heard the 4cyl fox be called "rear steer" thats gotta be the rack and steering arm position?
are all of them 11" rotors?

im trying to undersatnd how factory5 adopts the this gear im sure its well thought out. and the little bmw is a 96" whlbse too so yeah.

thanx again willys, ill be sure to jbweld my sheetmetal strut rod brakets to a thick body pannel.

any good info on perimeter frame design? i like the
idea because it means i can get the seat height damn low....so when i pitch it off the highway my head doesnt bang into the roof bar....

maybe nextime when they run the Long Beach Grand Prix they'll let residents enter.....?? dont be -
SCOTT
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