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Off The Beaten Path - Paint & Primer Help Needed

1K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  deadbodyman 
#1 ·
So I apologize if this is a little off the beaten path in terms of questions :D . I've lurked over here for a while now and gathered TONS of valuable refinishing knowledge. But now I'm at a loss and am SURE you guys can provide some valuable insight.
What I'm looking to do is restore an old IHC Little Genius Plow. The plan is to take everything apart, and have it professionally sandblasted. Thats where I'm lost...What I want is a "Show Quality" finish that will last a long time. This will spend its life outdoors, so running down to Tractor Supply for cheap paint is out of the question for me (All my other projects have been painted with Nason Acrylic Enamel over Nason Etch & then a Nason primer). I need a non-sanding primer as sanding all those nooks & crannies is out of the question, plus its a forged/cast finish, not looking for glass. Just nice & durable...not looking to break the bank, but I also want to do it right the first time so I dont mind spending what it takes to get er done.
What would you guys use as a primer and paint on this old farm equipment?

-Pic attached is how it looked when I got it home a year ago...I've tracked down all the parts necessary which is why I'm now turning my attentio to refinishing.

Thanks!
 

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#3 ·
I have painted farm machinery for good customers an i would normally get it fine sandblasted then straight on with hmg cv etch primer 2 coats 30 min flash off then use hmg cv high solids two coats.
no rubbing required, hmg commercial vehicle range will give durability, coverage and good gloss, their etch primer is 2k and directly over coatable

etch primer 4:1:1
high solids 2:1:0.5

both primer and high solids are costing about £10 per litre at gun.

hope this helps
 
#5 · (Edited)
deadbodyman said:
Since your in Maine you'll have rust issues so I'd seal it with epoxy,reduced 10-15% directly over the metal (SPI would be my my choice)
You got that right about rust....The SPI stuff did catch my eye...when you say reduced 10-15% you mean mix it according to the data sheet and then thinning it an additional 10-15%? Why is that?

deadbodyman said:
then a good urathane single stage paint on top of that.no sanding...Nason (by Dupont) makes a pretty good SS at a fair price.much better than the acrilics...
Whats a good bang for the buck?...I've got all the majors locally...only been using DuPont/Nason because its easy. I see a few Nason Urethane SS's to chose from:
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/nsn/s/product/nason.html
 
#6 ·
Reducing the epoxy lets it flow out a bit better for less sanding and I would concour on the nason single stage for the top coat..

2 wet coats of epoxy and 2 coats of single stage is a standard spec for that kind of work..

Sam
 
#7 ·
OneMoreTime said:
Reducing the epoxy lets it flow out a bit better for less sanding and I would concour on the nason single stage for the top coat..

2 wet coats of epoxy and 2 coats of single stage is a standard spec for that kind of work..

Sam
Awesome. Thanks for that info!

Another related question...seeing as how the SPI Epoxy has a 7 Day window that kinda allows me to change my plan of attack. Originally I was going to prime & paint all the individual parts THEN assemble and touch up any bolt heads and scratches.... With a 7 day window...I could prime one day, assemble the next and then paint the whole thing and not worry about touching anything up? Is it ok to leave the epoxy un-coated in unexposed areas?
 
#9 ·
Old Fool said:
Excellent application for powder coat imho.
Thought about that...got a place locally that does BEAUTIFUL work at great prices....acutally that Powder shop is where i'll be getting it blasted.
I'd almost prefer it to be honest with you. Whenever given the chance thats usually the route I take..I plan on having the 3 rims powdered.
BUT, cast/forged pieces always end up with tiny bubbles/pimples in the finish. Doesnt affect the durability, but its not exactly the show finish I'm looking for.
 
#10 ·
Spudland_Dave said:
You got that right about rust....The SPI stuff did catch my eye...when you say reduced 10-15% you mean mix it according to the data sheet and then thinning it an additional 10-15%? Why is that?

QUOTE]
SPI is also a very good paint sealer...the extra 10% leaves a smooth texture that wont need sanding. Great for rearends etc...and you still get the protection....
 
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