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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 08:42 AM
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good info, TheCiscoKid
I cant help but wonder about your susp. woes, seems like you are missing something or maybe just out of balance front to rear

my big question is aimed toward the P.S. (but will also affect the susp.)
what engine and size tires are you running?

it sounds like you are aware of the pressure mismatch with chevy P.S. pumps and the M II racks
what rack do you have for it now?

P.S. is something I have been wondering about for my build, BBC with iron heads and wide tires

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 09:38 AM
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this is my 37 chev I am the second regestered oner of the car and have had owened it since 1972 had it on the road in 1976 with too much power and twisted it. I finally got it back on the road in 2011. front has been lowered since this photo.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlips
this is my 37 chev I am the second regestered oner of the car and have had owened it since 1972 had it on the road in 1976 with too much power and twisted it. I finally got it back on the road in 2011. front has been lowered since this photo.
love to see it
try again, pic. no workie
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:17 AM
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I have manual rack on now, going back to a PS. I would rather use a manual rack if I could find a nice big steering wheel. Fricken PS racks leak, the whole ford rack /chevy pump thing sucks. I don't know if the ford pump is so ugly, wouldn't see it on my car. Don't know how tough it is to mount one, wish someone made a kit. Steering isn't bad with a truck steering wheel, the wheel is in my pics,,, gotta love my banjo wheel tho.
I had drop spindles ( car pics with full moons ) but couldn't get the back down enough without using a block and small tires. I just don't like small rear tires. I have regular spindles now, front tires 215/60x15, rear 235/70x15. I weighed the car 3380lbs, think it was 1600 front, 1780 rear.
My rack is a new style T-bird. I was talking to Horton Hotrods and they say the number one complaint anyone has is ride quality. I started a thread on this once, but it died. Before I put the valve in my PS the car was just plain scarey to drive. Even so the car isn't something I want to drive 100mph in, I've hit 90 and backed off. I think at 78mph my car can be seized by the cops.
I'm running a SBC 355, camel hump heads, shorty headers, eddy carb and intake, Voodoo 262 cam, turbo 350.
ANOTHER PROBLEM is my brakes. Dual diaphram 7'' booster, disc/drum, cowl mounted. I lengthen an S10 pedal. Under normal driving the car slows down fine, but actually stopping isn't easy. Normal driving car stops fine. If I have to stop fast, I'd be screwed, car just won't stop fast, brakes won't lock up no matter how hard I stomp on them. I'm thinking of using a bigger booster, maybe an s10 as mine is stainless with a chrome master cylinder. I'd rather be stopped than shiney !!

Last edited by TheCiscoKid; 01-11-2012 at 10:27 AM.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCiscoKid
I have manual rack on now, going back to a PS. I would rather use a manual rack if I could find a nice big steering wheel. Fricken PS racks leak, the whole ford rack /chevy pump thing sucks. I don't know if the ford pump is so ugly, wouldn't see it on my car. Don't know how tough it is to mount one, wish someone made a kit. Steering isn't bad with a truck steering wheel, the wheel is in my pics,,, gotta love my banjo wheel tho.
I had drop spindles ( car pics with full moons ) but couldn't get the back down enough without using a block and small tires. I just don't like small rear tires. I have regular spindles now, front tires 215/60x15, rear 235/70x15. I weighed the car 3380lbs, think it was 1600 front, 1780 rear.
My rack is a new style T-bird. I was talking to Horton Hotrods and they say the number one complaint anyone has is ride quality. I started a thread on this once, but it died. Before I put the valve in my PS the car was just plain scarey to drive. Even so the car isn't something I want to drive 100mph in, I've hit 90 and backed off. I think at 78mph my car can be seized by the cops.
I'm running a SBC 355, camel hump heads, shorty headers, eddy carb and intake, Voodoo 262 cam, turbo 350.
ANOTHER PROBLEM is my brakes. Dual diaphram 7'' booster, disc/drum, cowl mounted. I lengthen an S10 pedal. Under normal driving the car slows down fine, but actually stopping isn't easy. Normal driving car stops fine. If I have to stop fast, I'd be screwed, car just won't stop fast, brakes won't lock up no matter how hard I stomp on them. I'm thinking of using a bigger booster, maybe an s10 as mine is stainless with a chrome master cylinder. I'd rather be stopped than shiney !!
what size dia. are the brake rotors and drums?
also what size dia. is the bore on your master cyl.?
tell me more about the brake system
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:23 AM
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brakes are the bigger camaro discs and drums are whatever is common on Chevys, the axle came out of a car. Booster is 7'' dual diaphram. MC is 1'' bore.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:36 AM
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I think that M.C. is too small
You might post on the brake section to get some more help
I no expert
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:49 AM
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1937 chevy 2 dr sedan

I built the car in 1990 and have loved driving it since then. My wife drives it most of the time, and she has driven Mercedes, Volvo, BMW, Passats, and she loves the ride, handling and performance. I will attempt to outline what parts I have that ride so well but goes back now 22 years.

1. Front end was an RB's bolt in with a Mustang 2 bolt power steering rack. The 3 bolt power steering racks are faster from turn to turn.
2. RB's front sway bar without the factory dip on the front. THe front springs were from a 1976 Pinto wagon with a/c and v6 I think. All the springs had different ratings.
3. Front shocks are still great and they are munroe gas matics
3. Power steering pump was from a 1965 chev impala. It had the lowest pump pressure of any GM pump. If you do a search you will see that pump pressure varies between different pumps. No leaks in 22 years.
3. Rear was the RBs rear leafs and munroe shocks. I used 2 inch blocks under the axle and run 2.35X75X15 inch rear tires.
4. Motor 350 tpi
5. Trans 700r
6. Brakes. My booster was from a 1986 Ford Bronco and a master cylinder from a the same vehicle I think. The bracket and pedal came out of a 1980's for pickup. I bent the arm that holds the pedal that original was almost a "C" to more than straight going back the other way by heating red hot with a torch. Car stops on a dime.
Front brakes are upgraded to Camaro with an upgrade kit. They are the larger rotos with the camaro or Regal calipers. This required the narrow front axle nut when I purchased the conversion.

Over the 22 years and 80 miles I have replaced the brakes on the front once and two turbo mufflers. We pulled a fiberglass trailer and our 22 foot skiboat with this car.




I did have one power steering drip for about 10 years, and was considering getting my rack rebuilt until I noticed the return line used a factory clamp with a bolt and nut. The bolt was tight and the fluid was so clear I couldn't seem to isolate where it was leaking. It then dripped on the rack. One day I noticed the rubber hose moved when I grabbed it even though the clamp was tight. I replaced the clamp with a gear style clamp and the leak was finally gone.


I recently replaced the inner tie rod ends and the shop in town that did the alignment took it out for a test drive. They do a lot of street rods and high performance cars and the mechanic said it was one of the nicest driving cars he had driven.


I would see if you could bolt in an older power 2 bolt rack. I know they are getting harder to find.
Only problem I have had has been a radiator leak, over the 22 years.

This is now my latest rides
www.vixenrv.org


The older racks are getting hard to find but I do know from reading that the Mustang 2 racks varied depending on whether they were 2 bolt or 3 bolt.

My email is vixentd@gmail.com if I can be of any help.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev
I think that M.C. is too small
You might post on the brake section to get some more help
I no expert
here is a link to that thread , I hope you get it worked out
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 04:00 PM
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37/38 chevy forum

hi im new to the forum and im not very computer literate. i think i posted a pic of my 38 chevy coupe, but im not sure if it can be seen.could someone repy and let me know? my car has a .30 over 4 bolt main 350 with dart aluminum angle plug heads,edelbrock carb & intake with hooker ceramic headers and turbo 350 trans. the suspention is camaro front 9"ford posi rear. have yet to finish the interior.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustynut7
hi im new to the forum and im not very computer literate. i think i posted a pic of my 38 chevy coupe, but im not sure if it can be seen.could someone repy and let me know? my car has a .30 over 4 bolt main 350 with dart aluminum angle plug heads,edelbrock carb & intake with hooker ceramic headers and turbo 350 trans. the suspention is camaro front 9"ford posi rear. have yet to finish the interior.
sorry no pic, here is a link about how to post pics then try again

we would love to see your car here
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:58 PM
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Master cyl size

1" is too big. drop to a 7/8 or maybe even 3/4. I race in circles!...and I build my own cars. Had a new car (chev) that had the same issue on the track. I have friends at AFCO which is also US Brake. Smaller bore will make more pressure. I dropped one size to the 7/8" and it was night and day. Hope this helps
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2012, 08:22 AM
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different steering rack

here is a link to a thread about using a different steering rack
Mustang II "Twitchy Steering"
M II alternative
I'm putting this here for me, so I can remember to do more homework and maybe get more responses on the subject
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2012, 03:15 PM
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37 taxi

hi. am in the UK. managed to buy this at an auction here in England after they finished filming here last year. don't know much about it pre Captain America, other than it was imported here from Gulf Shores Alabama mid 2010, when it was a mid blue colour.
runs a 350sbc/th350, usual 8" rear and ford front, which seems to have been done about 10/11 years ago.
at the moment am getting it ready for the street here and tidying up the interior. love it, and it's one of the least rusty cars i have ever owned. almost unbelievable - 75 years old, and apart from a few dings during filming it's excellent. must be that pure pre-war steel...
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2012, 04:18 PM
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thats a good looking car
you say all those dings in it came from shooting the movie Captain America?
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