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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2012, 03:48 PM
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rocker is in and now the rear quarter repair

thanks again for the pics of the rocker area, it helped a lot

I was able to get it close, and from there I could start on my quarter panel rust repair

the repair panels that I have dont fit properly, like most, so I had ????????

here is a link to that thread , because I had some questions about making the repair panel wider
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2012, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev

now as for you Leakie, we need more pics of the rest of your car for this thread, and to keep my inspirational juices flowing
(since you dont have a journal for me to go look at)
how about it leakie?
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2012, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev
how about it leakie?
Sorry Matt, I lost all the pics I had to a bad hard drive just before Christmas and I of course I never backed them up. I am not working on the car due to the cold and old bones but if there is something you need to see let me know and I will try to get a pic of it.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2012, 02:50 PM
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No big deal
Seeing other cars like mine just help me see what im working for and keep the juices flowing,
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2012, 09:20 PM
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37 Chevys

Gents, I am starting my '37 Chevy Panel Truck. Four friends and I brew beer and will make it our beer company truck. It was found with body panels off and stored in a closed space, all in very good shape. The frame is straight, level, and true. So far I have the Fat Man IFS installed, with sway bar and am in the process of locating the engine (big block). The motor is a 460 Ford (don't laugh). It's a great "RV motor" with a mild cam. I had the motor before the truck. The truck will be a regularly driven vehicle and also used long distance and I will tow with it. I have a '32 Ford roadster I built and drive a lot; I thought the panel and roadster-on-a-trailer would be a great rig. The tranny will be a C6 with a Gearvendors Overdrive. AC and power steering. I will post a couple of pics but the project is mostly bare frame. Oh, yeah... I will leave it in original patina, surface rust and all. I guess one question I would pose has to do with rear brakes, drum or disc? (The fronts are disc). Does anyone with a pickup or panel, or sedan have thoughts on wheel and tire size... not just looking right, but right stance and good for highway.
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2012, 10:15 PM
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I have 38 sedan, I used 215/60x15 front on 7'' rims, 235/70x15 rear on 8''rims.. The reason I didn't go with a 60 tire is I find they can bang too hard, as it is I'm going to change over to cheap tires with eaker sidewalls. My car rides too hard. Its not the shocks or springs,, its the tires.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2012, 05:46 PM
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thanks

Did you have any problem with "fit"? Did the front tires have full travel? Did you find the 8" rims fit the fenderwell ok? Did you use the original springs? Like you, I want a gentle ride around town and on the highway. When I tow, I plan to pump up the air shocks. My front fenders are huge! Are they about the same dimensions as the sedan?
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2012, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Bob
Did you have any problem with "fit"? Did the front tires have full travel? Did you find the 8" rims fit the fenderwell ok? Did you use the original springs? Like you, I want a gentle ride around town and on the highway. When I tow, I plan to pump up the air shocks. My front fenders are huge! Are they about the same dimensions as the sedan?
i am guessing you will want to change those rear springs
just because of age

I would love to see some pics of that delivery
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2012, 08:50 PM
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I put a TCI IFS and Chassis Eng rear spring, sway bars front and rear. I was talking to one of the guys at Hortons about my ride quality and he said that the most common complaint guys have is this. I paid for kits I thought were engineered to make my car ride and handle like a new car. My car rides worse than the original suspension which had no shocks.
I had PS, the rack blew in the winter when the car was hibernating, I put a manual rack in which OK until I park,, going back to PS. I have the Heidts valve in my pumpline, it needs something else. I was thinking of seeing about putting a Ford pump on a SBC.
Re: suspension, on the rear springs, I took a leaf out of each spring( car sank), I took off sway bar, I disconnected the shocks ,, the rear suspension just pounds over highway cracks and it really jars you in the car.I think my tires have too stiff of a sidewall. I had a van awhile back with cheap radials on, the sidewalls were soft, but that van was probably the nicest vehicle I've had for ride,, so guess what I'm going to put cheap radials on her.
The tires all clear, I think my axle was 56 or 57"" wide and tires sit just perfect. They are not too close to the fenders yet close enough that the fender opening looks full. The front tires fit fine, no rubbing. If I didn't have PS, I'd go a skinnier front tire.
I had 2'' drop spindles on the front before and the front wasn't too low, but there was no way to drop the rear enough and I'm older so big /little tires look good to me (even tho I think I can't safety with them) So I put regular spindles on and it looks much better. I think my project picks show the car with drop spindles.
My biggest complaint with my car is brakes. Normal driving slow stopping they seem fine, If i had to panic stop, no way, doubt I could lock the brakes up. I have a 7'' dual diaphram booster with a chrome MC firewall mounted using a lengthened S10 pedal. The brakes just aren't good enough. If I ever get back to it , I'm going to try an S10 booster and hope that fixes the brakes.
One little thing I did which I thought worked out well was the steering column to floor fitting I made. I had a nice billet piece which wouldn't go on over the shift linkage. I got an exhaust reducer with the IS diameter the size of the column and the OS a bit bigger than the hole on the floor. I trimmed the reducer top and bottom , then sliced it in half. I bolted the coulnm in and expoxyed reducer to the column and to the floor. It looks like a factory fit. I had bend a piece of the reducer over and was going to bolt it to the floor, but not needed. Those billet pieces don't hold the column up , just keep column centered, This does that for about $3.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCiscoKid
I have 38 sedan, I used 215/60x15 front on 7'' rims, 235/70x15 rear on 8''rims.. The reason I didn't go with a 60 tire is I find they can bang too hard, as it is I'm going to change over to cheap tires with eaker sidewalls. My car rides too hard. Its not the shocks or springs,, its the tires.
breezed through your journal (more time later) looks good (questions later also)
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Bob
Gents, I am starting my '37 Chevy Panel Truck. Four friends and I brew beer and will make it our beer company truck. It was found with body panels off and stored in a closed space, all in very good shape. The frame is straight, level, and true. So far I have the Fat Man IFS installed, with sway bar and am in the process of locating the engine (big block). The motor is a 460 Ford (don't laugh). It's a great "RV motor" with a mild cam. I had the motor before the truck. The truck will be a regularly driven vehicle and also used long distance and I will tow with it. I have a '32 Ford roadster I built and drive a lot; I thought the panel and roadster-on-a-trailer would be a great rig. The tranny will be a C6 with a Gearvendors Overdrive. AC and power steering. I will post a couple of pics but the project is mostly bare frame. Oh, yeah... I will leave it in original patina, surface rust and all. I guess one question I would pose has to do with rear brakes, drum or disc? (The fronts are disc). Does anyone with a pickup or panel, or sedan have thoughts on wheel and tire size... not just looking right, but right stance and good for highway.
since you plan on using it like a truck/towing
I would go for the disc on rear
and the chassis eng. rear spring kit might work well for you
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Old 02-15-2012, 09:02 PM
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I wish I had gone 4 bar. The springs become a negative arch,, they even advergtise this, I don't know how this can be a good thing. also with a 4 bar you have more control over ride hieight. I don't know if the sway bars make any difference. The Chassis Engineering rear sway bar is made for a Ford using a Ford axle. This is why I harp about the poor designs. It's not made for my car. I had to make spacers to fit it on my axle.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:02 PM
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1938 Chevrolet Coupe

Just got my invitation to show my 1938 Chev. coupe in the Salt Lake City Autorama March 2,3,4. I know its not that big of a deal, but for my garage built 7 year project it is a big deal for me at least.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:20 PM
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panel truck suspension

Thanks to all of you for input. I think I will stay with the stock springs, rebushed. Actually they might soften the ride plus it's a relatively easy R and R if I want to change them. The Fat Man spindles are not dropped because the engine is a big block and I want to see how it sits. I can always take out a bit of spring later. The springs are designed for a big block anyway. The engine is well over 700 pounds. I started a journal but it's starting from bare frame so it's not too exciting. I'm good at slow, steady progress so there will be updates as I go along.
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2012, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spacytracy
Just got my invitation to show my 1938 Chev. coupe in the Salt Lake City Autorama March 2,3,4. I know its not that big of a deal, but for my garage built 7 year project it is a big deal for me at least.
thats cool
and it is a big deal, because its your car,
so who else does it need to be a big deal for

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Bob
Thanks to all of you for input. I think I will stay with the stock springs, rebushed.
the engine is a big block
I started a journal but it's starting from bare frame so it's not too exciting. I'm good at slow, steady progress so there will be updates as I go along.
very cool on the journal, i will check it out

my only concern with using the stock rear springs is they are now very old and fatigued,
and were never made for the kind of torque a big block, towing a trailer or just loaded down in the back of the truck, will apply to them
(just worried they will break)
I would at least go get a new main leaf made for them
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