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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2012, 12:22 PM
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hey guys, I just got my seats and I threw them in the car
I was sitting in it playing with position and steering wheel angles etc.
(making engine noises the whole time, Vroom Vroom)

I was curious what size drop (how far down) do you have on your steering column mounts 2", 4", 6" ?

and how well do you like the way it turned out?

with the set back firewall and the seats a lot farther back than stock
it sure seems funny with the dash and windshield so far away, is this common also?
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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2012, 06:20 PM
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steering wheel

When I built the roadster (pic in journal), I positioned the steering wheel where I could easily steer with my left knee bent and the wrist and forearm resting comfortably on the knee. I have never regretted that. I can drive the car all day without knots in my neck. My advice is "form follows function", think of driving position first and you won't regret it.
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2012, 07:45 AM
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front end

I ordered my new front susp. and brake master/pedal assembly

I went with Heidts Superide II
the brake stuff is TCI
pretty excited

I started a thread looking for some pointers
but I havent got a ton of info, that I wasn't going to do already, but Im hoping for more hints (something I might have missed)

I will post some pics of the goods, when I get them home
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2012, 09:35 AM
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front suspension

I just finished installing my IFS and was fortunate to have two friends help me through it. I can't emphasize enough the importance of getting it precise. We carefully checked the squareness and level-ness of the frame, set it up on jackstands at the expected rake (3 degrees) and did not move the frame the rest of the time. Get a chassis centerline drawn on the floor and carefully check it front and rear. Don't center the IFS at the point of installation because the important measurement is the centerline of the chassis and frames can vary. Everything has to be precise, right to left, pitch, yaw, if welding, bevel the edges and get full penetration. It is the most important thing to get right because handling, bump steer, braking, and wear (or lack of it) all stem from this step. Measure and remeasure often. Oh yeah, put the front fenders on because the spindle has to be centered in the fender. Make a mark on the floor at the center of the fender opening and square that line with the chassis centerline. I will try to post some photos of my install later tonight at home.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2012, 09:46 PM
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Hello all,

I'm starting on installing the rear end mounting kit for my '37 4 door. It explains that I have to remove all the spring mounts on the rear. Unfortunately, they're riveted on with 4 rivets a piece, which is 16 rivets. They're a huge pain in the butt. I've gotten one of the 4 pads off so far.

I notice that the Chassis Engineering kit seems to line up with 2 of the holes for the front 2 mounts but the 3rd hole needs to be drilled and there is a 4th hole from one of the rivets that isn't used.

Has anyone installed this kit? The instructions are pretty vague, or maybe it's just me not picturing what they're talking about correctly.

Also, I got more parts in the mail today, but haven't opened them to figure out which parts they are. It'll be like Christmas.

Thanks,
Brandon
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2012, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetteman61
Hello all,

I'm starting on installing the rear end mounting kit for my '37 4 door. It explains that I have to remove all the spring mounts on the rear. Unfortunately, they're riveted on with 4 rivets a piece, which is 16 rivets. They're a huge pain in the butt. I've gotten one of the 4 pads off so far.

I notice that the Chassis Engineering kit seems to line up with 2 of the holes for the front 2 mounts but the 3rd hole needs to be drilled and there is a 4th hole from one of the rivets that isn't used.

Has anyone installed this kit? The instructions are pretty vague, or maybe it's just me not picturing what they're talking about correctly.

Also, I got more parts in the mail today, but haven't opened them to figure out which parts they are. It'll be like Christmas.

Thanks,
Brandon
I love seeing the UPS/FedEx truck pull up the drive

how are you removing the rivets?
I have found, if you cut an X in the head with a cut off wheel, they will usually knock right off with a chisel (you dont need to grind the whole head off)


I thought that spring kit was pretty straight forward, but I have never done one
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2012, 10:26 PM
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Thanks for the tip on the rivet. So far I've just been grinding them when able, but 2 of the 4 were impossible to get to so I just had to go at them with a chisel and hammer and a little with an air chisel.

I just want to make sure I put things in the right place and drill holes only when I need to.

Brandon
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2012, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetteman61
Thanks for the tip on the rivet. So far I've just been grinding them when able, but 2 of the 4 were impossible to get to so I just had to go at them with a chisel and hammer and a little with an air chisel.

I just want to make sure I put things in the right place and drill holes only when I need to.

Brandon
better safe than sorry
but if you take out the wrong rivet, you can just throw a bolt in it

if you hang the ends on the new springs and set them next to the old ones
you should be able to see right where the new hangers go
(or does the new kit move the axle ahead little?)
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2012, 10:41 PM
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I can tell where they go but when I line it up only 2 of the 3 holes line up. I haven't tried the rear mounts yet because I haven't gotten them off. The old mount has 4 rivets holding it on. The new mount only has 3 bolts. You can't get all 3 to line up. I was just wondering if this is common.

Brandon
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2012, 10:58 PM
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well i was just looking at them in the pics,here and I see there is only 3 holes in the one that will line up + 1 extra hole to drill
call the tech line at the bottom of the page and give them a quiz
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2012, 11:21 PM
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yeah, I'm going to try to give them a call tomorrow. The directions indicate that of the two holes right next to one another, one is for a 37 chevy and one is for 39 chevy.

Brandon
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 02-29-2012, 08:19 AM
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I used posies super slide kit for my coupe. They use the frame mounts that were born on my car. Every thing worked out really nice for me. I did buy my shock absorber cross member mount kit from tci though. It was perfect!
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2012, 11:53 AM
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food for thought

hey guys, I was at this site looking up info for something else, and I thought I would share it with you guys
I have never bought anything, but it always gives me some good ideas for making stuff on your own
there is lots to look at and think about

if you have a welder, its full of kits to build yourself

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2012, 01:10 PM
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Ok pictures I think I have a few.

Next time I log on I will put my photo album together. I found that I did not know very much about 1937 technologies so I bought a 1938 shop manual, so I would have something to read. I came by my 37 Chevy in a trade, you see the car had been setting in the Desert for some time; about 34 year parked in 1974, and was sold last September in a yard sale. My first time buying a car that has been sold at a yard sale, It has 68,789 miles on the odometer but I'm not sure if it is correct or has more miles on it. The car runs and drives and when the Budweiser ran out the keg became the gas tank. (Yes I will post pictures if you’re interested). I'm still not sure if I should make a hotrod out of the 1937 or just restore it. It has the original 216.5 straight 6 cylinder in it and 3 speed manual on the floor. Yes a whapping 80 HSP I can get out of this stock set up, (You laugh but I can get a burn out with one tire).

Well that is enuff for now.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2012, 09:11 PM
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Just finished up with the SLC Autorama tonight. Really was an eye opener too. Big awards all went to the big dollar guys of course. Kindigs builds are incredible for sure and earned what he got. I did end up with best in class for my garage built 2000 hour project, but no way to compete with the guys with 7 figure budgets. One of the judges even told me that the out of the box and on to the floor cars built by these big dollar guys dont impress him. But IMHO they must give the bulk of the awards to these guys because money talks. Think I will just stick to cruising my car around town for fun and stop into the small cruiseins to mingle with the Real people out there!
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