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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2006, 06:31 AM
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Doc has given you excellant advice - tank it, check for damage, but then scrap at least the rod that spun the bearing and probably the one next to it - they got too hot and have distorted, REPLACE the oil pump - they are cheap, machine the crank to the first undersize if it isn't blue, hone the cylinder walls if within max wear specs and re-ring. If the crank has turned deep blue on the spun rod throw, all bets for engine longevity are off. Minor discoloration is probably OK for machining. Might want to consider new lifters as well - possibly have some babbit/crud or their springs are 'dead' from excessive heat.

Makes you wonder if a crate or good junkyard motor might be a better choice.

You need a good radiator as well as a trans cooler BEFORE you run it again.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2006, 07:39 AM
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For $650 the crate motor is the way I would go sell your motor for a few bucks to someone who wants it for a rebuild .
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2006, 11:20 PM
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Good news! and bad A friend of mine gave me a 4 bolt main block (#14093638) and a set of heads(#14102193) for free!

From looking these numbers up, it's a 87 up 350 that is 1 peice seal, 4 bolt main, can support a regular flat tappet or a roller cam! Although it is bored .060 over and its dirty, its condition is beautiful(you can still see the cross-hatch hone pattern and no ridge). And the heads are truck swirl port EFI's, with 74cc chamber? and 170cc runner?(are these better than my 151cc 882's?).

The bad news...The crank is in worse shape than what I have now.

So here is what I was thinking...using what I got for free, dissasembling it, clean it, get a honing stone and hone the cylinders...new rings and bearings, and either new crank or regrind it, leave the pistons hung on rods jsut clean real well, then new gasket set etc. And not have it touch a shop. (then possibly use a roller cam with a good set of junkyard vortecs and sell my other stuff)

What do you think?
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Old 10-19-2006, 06:58 AM
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Hey Warrant

Hey--

I live in Layton, too... just off Gordon Ave and about 4 blocks east of the mall. If you need a hand, let me know, I've got an engine puller, also a garage with a hydraulic lift, air, etc.

Utah Smitty

PS Best to call my cell... this is my work email, and I only work M-Th. 971 6108
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2006, 03:52 PM
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Hey! thanks a ton smitty, I live on Joni dr. (near the end of antelope) I have a engine hoist and most all other things to build anything welders, air, etc (not a lift). (My dad is a building op a 37 chevy and a my brother a 65 rambler.

I think I have a plan, I'll use the older '75 block I have now and remove everything...clean it...and get ride of the ridge and get a new hone in it. The thing is I dont have a ridge reamer or a honeing stone... and I found a new crank for $50...reuse my rods and pistons with new rings...
and use all my other parts I already have.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2006, 07:09 PM
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Doc here,

Well..Same movie..different channel..

Yes, It is a good idea to combine all the GOOD parts and make one engine..

HOWEVER , something made the #2 block barf the lower end also..So the block will most likely be contaminated..To do it correctly AND only once..

Do whatever machining you will to the block..when ready to reassemble..take it, and ALL the heads to the shop, have them hot tanked, and inspected for useful life..and level surfaces..(this is about the cheapest you'll get off in a shop, unless you know the guy well..)

WHEN you get them Back..

Pressure wash it, take your time and get it squeaky clean..Then air dry And wipe down important surfaces with light oil..Paint or whatever you want to do at this point, and install all your GOOD parts, And new gaskets..(get a set of core plugs..just cuz...)

Take your time, do it right...and it will do right by you..

Doc
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2006, 08:43 PM
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Hmmmm...is .060 over the max for a 350? Couse if it is...I would think it would be a waste of time to rebuild that one(couse if somthing happens and I put money in it...I think I can use the block with a new hone and good clean...

Is it a bad idea to just hone my 100,000 mile block, can I get my pistons with new rings past the ridge? Are Ridge reamers effective???

Ahh idk what to do!!!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2006, 10:55 PM
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Doc here,

It really not easy to say without inspecting either..especially over the internet..That's like me asking you, : Should I go with the Tat I have on on my right arm as is...or have it modified..Something from the equation is missing..

A 100,000 mile block can be better than a 1000 mile block..depending on what it looks like..It's history, and inspection..(That new block could have a Wall Crack in it..) That's why the tank and inspection to be safe..

As far as the reamers , If the ridge is not too sever, yes, they are very effective..They take time and patients to get it right..AND..If your reusing the rings and/or pistons..DO it before you pull them out .. not after..you could crack a ring or piston on the way out..

The key to any successful rebuild is Clean ,Clean, Clean, Straight and Smooth..

I know your on a tight budget..this , I think is the easiest way out for you..

Doc
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2006, 03:19 PM
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ok...here's the deal, I can get a used/good conditon crankshaft for both engines for $50. I think im going to go ahead and use the newer '87 block (becouse it looks like it has just been recently machined(although somthing happened with the crank)) and dissemble it(leave the rods and pistons mated together and clean them real well), Use a honing stone on the cylinders, reinstal everything that I had owned with new rings, bearings, and gaskets etc.

The reason I dont want to use the spun bearing engine, is becouse of the ridge and would probaly need to get it bored, , the and 2 rods are most likey need resizing(more cost and means I would have to get pistons pressed off and back onto the rods) $$$ and the cylinders...I just dont want to get into that.

But Im not familier with with these newer blocks. Can everything be swapped from my 1975 block to the 1987? Oil pump? Fuel pump? it doesnt have a flexplate, can I use my old flexplate on the new 350, or will it throw it out of balence? Also since it can use a OE roller cam, should I take advantage of that? What cam do I look for? Are they alot of $$$. I think I could get some good condition roller lifters out of a junk yard. and I might as well score some vortecs and do a budget rebuild on those???

What do you think?
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2006, 06:14 PM
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Doc here,



Well if it was me without knowing the history of the blocks, except both had burned up crankshafts... I would never mix and match stuff into a block I suspected to be Kewl..without a shop inspection and tank/Cleaning..

BTW: What makes you think the Pistons , and rings are gonna fit in a different block, ?? as you said yours was bored max..Need to mic those..

Call me an alarmist..But it the worst feeling in the world to watch water pour out the plug holes the first time you fill the radiator..or fill the pan..Or after initial break in RPM you back it down to idle only to hear "Knock, Knock, Knock.." that gets louder as it runs more..

I'd pass on the vortecs and better spend the money on the shop costs .. If it were me..The heads will add nothing to the performance of the car if it starts barfing rods and spinning mains or has a big AZZED crack in 3 cylinder walls..into the water jacket..

Another way to look at it, assume the block and lower end are the foundation to your home..and you say, I'm gonna scrimp on that..and add KEWL looking doors and windows, Hot tub, hobby room with slate bed pool table..water bed, and so forth..Then a mild wind comes along and blows it over because the PLATFORM can't support the weight and stress of wind loading..you have a Pile of NEAT looking junk..

But then again..That's just me..

It's Your project, your budget, your labor..Do with it as you will..

Post back and let us know how it turns out

Doc
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2006, 06:41 PM
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Warrant... don't ignore what doc is telling you. You CANNOT take shortcuts when your dealing with engine related components. This reminded me of some kid in my class when discussing something as critical as bearing clearances and how it "doesn't matter" if you're off a little bit on your micrometer readings, etc. I couldn't help but laugh. Do what he's suggesting to you and yes, it's going to take a chunk out of your wallet most likely but it's better if it's going to save you from having major headaches later on by doing things right the first time. Imo, he's being really patient with you so take that into account. Other members here would just blow you off if you constantly ignore their advice. My 2 cents.

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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2006, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
BTW: What makes you think the Pistons , and rings are gonna fit in a different block, ?? as you said yours was bored max..Need to mic those.
Im not sure where you got that from, maybe I explained somthing not quite right. I wont be exchanging pistons to different blocks.

AHHHH!! ok never-mind that plan...I will use my block that spun the bearing, reuse all the pistons with new rings. take the spun rod, and press it off the piston, weigh it and match it to another good condition stock rod that I have and repress the piston back on. And use a honing stone to get a god seal. Use a beautiful standard 350 crank that I now got. and install with new bearings all around. and go up from their with the rest of the parts from the engine, new gaskets etc.

The only thing is that I hope the ridge is still small to get past, and that the cylinder walls are ok(heat and lack of oil) if their good, Im confident it will work.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2006, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Classix_Lover
Imo, he's being really patient with you so take that into account. Other members here would just blow you off if you constantly ignore their advice. My 2 cents.
Yes true, thank you a ton doc...but I dont have the money to spend the $500 to get the block mashined then get new pistons etc. and besides why do that when the block doesnt need it and I can sqeuuze by with doing what Ive been talking about above. I know thats the wrong attitude. And I only need it to last 2-3 years MAX, and I know that really the wrong attitude. But Im not gonna be using the engine for 100,000 miles n 20 years...lol
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2006, 07:00 PM
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Doc here,

I think your missing the point here..

To have it inspected and tanked / Cleaned will / Should cost less than $100 (check with your local shops) This will eliminate the bad from the good AND insure it is clean when you put it back together..

What if you have Babbitt built up in the oil gallery's just reassembling it? your not going to get 500 miles much less 5000 miles before the engine starts to wear out..

Again, It's up to you..Whatever you feel comfortable with..

I did it that way a few times 30 + years ago myself ..since I go the other route and pay less in towing insurance..

Doc
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2006, 07:39 PM
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Warrant

Call down to some machine shops down in the City. You may get some better prices for the cleaning and checking.

You are only about 30 min from NSLC, and I KNOW there are shops in WestValley, Sandy, & Midvale that are reasonalbly priced.

Those small town places have their cutomers by the 'nads and they know it. Go somewhere there is competion and you may get better deals.

On a good note---I know there is a real good person around Roy. My Brother and I were taking both of his cars to the Cache Valley show in Logan in 2000.
(blown 350 46 Ford Coupe, Chopped----Restored 66 396 4spd ElCamino)
The 46 alternator bracket broke (custom) and disabled the car on the freeway. Some guy that was on his way to the show pulled up behind us, and removed the broken part--went to his shop and made a new one--came back and installed it (90 minutes) ON A SUNDAY, and would not accept any payment. Wish I could remember his name. He even showed up at the show to make sure the part was gonna be okay.--That bracket is STILL on the car to this day.

Bryan
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