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Oil change process for new engine start up

3K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  sqzbox 
#1 ·
I'm about to fire up my latest project engine, a vortec headed one piece seal 350 with the roller GM hot cam. I've been advised to break it in with conventional oil to ensure the rings seat correctly and then switch over to synthetic once it's run about a thousand miles.

So how long should I run the initial oil that is in at start up? I'm breaking in new rings, but it has a roller cam so I don't have the extra break in issues associated with a flat tappet cam.

And do you guys agree with the advice I've received concerning running conventional oil for 1,000 miles before the switch over to synthetic?
 
#2 ·
Yes, I agree, the synthetic is too slick for a break in oil. You need dyno oil to let the parts burnish into each other and let the rings seat. After a thousand miles or so, I'd go 2500 but to each his own, then you can use synthetic if thats your choice. I use RotellaT but again to each his own.
 
#4 ·
After break in, set all timing and carb adj. and then change oil again. Then run it 1,000 mi and change to your choice of syn. oil. You would be surprised how much crap you will find in the filter.
During PE checks on the huey helicopter we would check oil samples with a black light to find any metal particles from bearings on the rotor shaft and tail rotor. Any particles found would require immediate replacement. This process was performed every 25 hrs. of flight time on the chopper.
After changing the break in oil, tear open the filter and see for yourself. A black light will show all the crap real good. This is why break in oil is recommended to be changed after break in. :D
 
#5 ·
TNshadetree said:
I'm about to fire up my latest project engine, a vortec headed one piece seal 350 with the roller GM hot cam. I've been advised to break it in with conventional oil to ensure the rings seat correctly and then switch over to synthetic once it's run about a thousand miles.

So how long should I run the initial oil that is in at start up? I'm breaking in new rings, but it has a roller cam so I don't have the extra break in issues associated with a flat tappet cam.

And do you guys agree with the advice I've received concerning running conventional oil for 1,000 miles before the switch over to synthetic?
Millions of engines have a factory fill of synthetic oil, do you think those rings don't break-in properly? You are concerned about something that isn't an issue. All I see are comments from others that reflect a continuation of incorrect information. I have been involved in hundreds of engine builds that were run on engine dynomometers and tear down of these engines and inspection of internal components never showed ring issues, or any other problems that could be caused by using synthetic oil. Proper ring break-in is more related to the condition of the cylinder and surface finish of the cylinder.
 
#6 ·
OK well since we are on the topic...I just built a 383 and have a very well machined/honed 0.030 over bore with hastings moly ring set on my KB hypers. I changed my oil and filter right after my 30 minute breakin at 2200 rpms. Then I added the same (but new) penzoil 10W-30 non syn and a new WIX filter + 500ml AC engine oil supplement. How many miles (approx) do I need to put on this mill until I can expect the rings to be seated in.? I am really taking it easy on this motor and have not revved it passed about 3500 rpm, I have made a highway cruise or 2 about 175 miles so far and some city driving for a total of about 250 miles, The level on the dip stick has not moved at all and it looks as clean as when I put it in :D Moly rings seat in faster than cast yes/no? I too want to switch to synthetic and am one of those who believes synthetic is not for break in
 
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