Oil or coolant? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2011, 09:21 PM
Ed and Cami's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: New cluster
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Aurora, CO
Age: 56
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Oil or coolant?

Just finished some exhaust and emissions parts replacement. Was hoping it would eliminate the problem, but, no. Getting some kind of oily(?) film all over the inside of my windshield. As a result, I can't drive the car because I can't see where I'm going, after a few minutes. Could it be that I need to check my heater core? Radiator and all hoses are new. The car is an '83 Camaro, so, in for a not fun time if I have to do this.
Thanks for any input.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2011, 09:59 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,415
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 61 Times in 57 Posts
I put a truck into a telephone pole from a windshield smeared with power steering fluid on a bright and sunny morning. Not fun.. I would check there first.. Oil or coolant could also do it, but power steering runs at a high pressure and can atomize like that a lot easier
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2011, 10:13 PM
Ed and Cami's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: New cluster
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Aurora, CO
Age: 56
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Just had a thought. Do you think brake fluid would do that? Also, not sure how power stg. fluid would get inside. Oh, well. Back to the wrenches tomorrow.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2011, 10:27 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 6,415
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 2
Thanked 61 Times in 57 Posts
just noticed you said inside. Has to be a leaky heater core. nothing else could do that.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2011, 10:39 PM
Ed and Cami's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: New cluster
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Aurora, CO
Age: 56
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Must be a small leak, though. I usually can smell something like that. Well, been thinking about it the last few days and think I'll have to agree with you. But, when a car has been through what this one has, I guess ya gotta expect some things.
Now, if I could just find an easy way to change some gaskets without pulling the engine.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2011, 05:17 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 1,259
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 110 Times in 101 Posts
heater core

It is the heater core . It only takes a pin hole to let vapors escape and get on the windshield and it will only get worse until you have a puddle of coolant on the passenger side floor board. Soooo, make plans to replace the heater core. I replaced the heater core in my '91 S10 Blazer yesterday. The heater cores will usually last about 20 years if the antifreeze is replaced every two years. The replacement heater core was entirely made of aluminum. Aluminum heater cores are better although copper/brass alloy with lead solder may be a little stronger. However, with proper cooling system maintenance, heater cores do not have to be bullet proof.

The GM heater cores through 1995 were copper/ brass alloy with lead solder. Today, OEM replacement and aftemarket replacement heater cores are made of aluminum alloy with EPA approved aluminum alloy solder. Aluminum heater cores are used today because some people, who don't know any better, still use Dex-Cool long life antifreeze. Dex-Cool long life antifreeze suposedly has better protection for aluminum engine components for long intervals between coolant changes. It is best to use green antifreeze and change it every two years.

Other problems with the heating system are the non-conductive plastic dash parts that do not offer good grounds to reduce electroysis. Electrolysis is caused by stray electrical current induced in the cooling system by depleated antifreeze and bad grounds. Use a digital VOM and check the voltage in the coolant to ground and if it more than 0.3, you may have an electrolysis problem. A high coolant flow rate through the heater core will also cause heater core failures. That is why the automakers use heater hose quick-disconnects with flow restrictors. Always use the quick disconnect fittings with flow restrictors on the heater hose at the instake manifold connection.

Last edited by MouseFink; 06-16-2011 at 05:32 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2011, 08:06 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 4,458
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 13
Thanked 284 Times in 264 Posts
heater box

I don't know about your camero. In those years I was into 5.0 mustangs. If your heater box to firewall is not sealed tight engine compaartment fumes can be drawn inside. A lot of Foreign cars are noted for having interior plastic parts that outgass , when the interior gets hot. those vapors condense on cold surfaces like windshields and side glass. leaving a gummy residue. also some american cars steering wheels get gummy after a few years.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2011, 11:02 AM
Ed and Cami's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: New cluster
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Aurora, CO
Age: 56
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sorry I haven't been around in a while. Thanks for the info. Pretty sure I need to replace the heater core. Alreay replaced the steering wheel. Original one was old and feeling gummy, not to mention bigger than I want.
Also need work on other areas, like trans, rear, engine, interior, etc.
No, if I bought a new car I'd never get what I want.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2011, 12:55 PM
malc's Avatar
Living At The Speed Of Life
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Espaņa Right Coast
Posts: 3,321
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 116
Thanked 155 Times in 127 Posts
83 Camaro, thatīs a fun job changing out the heater core.
Be prepared for skinned knuckles.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2011, 12:14 PM
Ed and Cami's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: New cluster
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Aurora, CO
Age: 56
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Got the heater core out. Yes, I know. Working takes away from spare time. Heater core seems okay, so I reconnected it into the system and fired her up. All that work to find out that all I needed to do was replace a hose clamp that wouldn't clamp. Aargh!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2011, 01:41 PM
Ed and Cami's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: New cluster
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Aurora, CO
Age: 56
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
We have returned. Found out last week after work that I needed to change the heater core. Night and when the lights hit the windshield I was totally blind. Not a good feeling! Since I have the dash apart, I was wondering if anybody might have a gauge panel they'd like to get rid of. Looking for the gauges, tach included, with speedo that goes higher than 85. I would prefer the 145 but would settle for 115. I have idiot lights now. Yech!
Oh, yeah, forgot to mention that I would prefer to deal with somebody in the Denver, CO area, so I can come out and get it.

Last edited by Ed and Cami; 09-22-2011 at 01:58 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2011, 03:40 PM
malc's Avatar
Living At The Speed Of Life
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Espaņa Right Coast
Posts: 3,321
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 116
Thanked 155 Times in 127 Posts
I didīnt take the dash apart, took it out from underneath,
passenger side.

Gauge clusters at Hawks Third Gen.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2011, 09:23 PM
Ed and Cami's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: New cluster
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Aurora, CO
Age: 56
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the link, malc. Looks like they might have what I need. E-mailed them, but gonna call them in the morning. Do you deal with them a lot?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2011, 11:58 PM
malc's Avatar
Living At The Speed Of Life
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Espaņa Right Coast
Posts: 3,321
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 116
Thanked 155 Times in 127 Posts
Iīve had quite a lot of parts off them,
including a gauge cluster.

You might like to try GM Sports Salvage or Youngs FBody Motorsports.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2011, 03:00 PM
Ed and Cami's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: New cluster
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Aurora, CO
Age: 56
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Okay, the part is expected to be delivered Saturday. I believe I need to change the oil pressure sending unit and temp sending unit, right? Anything else to get it to work?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
red coolant mitmaks Engine 6 08-30-2010 08:43 PM
old coolant mitmaks General Rodding Tech 9 07-05-2009 08:50 AM
Coolant TokenJo General Rodding Tech 1 05-06-2009 05:03 PM
Coolant Dilemma! Ok to use Green coolant with Red coolant? mgold Hotrodding Basics 6 03-31-2009 05:37 PM
npg coolant mancinator Engine 0 07-09-2004 02:58 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.