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Old 11-09-2012, 07:09 PM
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oil pan removal for a 69 nova ss

im trying get this oil pan off of my nova and ive heard it can be done without pulling the motor. i have the motor un bolted and 2x4s between the mounts to block it up, the starter removed and the crank turned so the lobes are out of the way and still cant get it out....is there a trick or something or what.... the motor is up as far as it can go ive been trying all day today and want to pull my hair out also ive noticed if i can take the sway bar off i can get it would that be a bad thing?

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Old 11-09-2012, 07:26 PM
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It may be helpful to remove the dust cover from the flywheel/flexplate. Are you sure you've got your blocks set to get maximum lift? A quarter inch more may be all you need, I never pulled a Nova pan but I've pulled several 1st gen Camaros so I know it's possible.
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:29 PM
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Pull the engine....less hassle in the long run and its 1/2 way out now...... Much better chance of no oil pan gasket leaks with it out. Plus, you can clean and detail it while out
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:30 PM
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Is the center link in the way?
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:22 PM
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i dont have the means to pull the motor right now and its my only vehicle out here but yes the center link is in the way ive never pulled it off because i was worried about screwing something up
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by hpete View Post
It may be helpful to remove the dust cover from the flywheel/flexplate. Are you sure you've got your blocks set to get maximum lift? A quarter inch more may be all you need, I never pulled a Nova pan but I've pulled several 1st gen Camaros so I know it's possible.
its up as far as i will go so i dont know what else to do
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:34 PM
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borrow a pickle fork,remove cotter keys,split tie rod ends.If you are good with a hammer you do not need a fork.Hit the side of the tie rod ends,NOT the threaded stud.Make sure not to hit the rubber boot or teat it.Car will need to have front wheels off the ground to reinstall. Take it off as one piece from outside tie rod one to the other outside tie rod end. Do NOT loosen adjustment sleeves.

When putting back together,always go to next tighter spot before putting cotter key through casleated nut.Alignment will not change if you done turn any sleeves
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:39 PM
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borrow a pickle fork,remove cotter keys,split tie rod ends.If you are good with a hammer you do not need a fork.Hit the side of the tie rod ends,NOT the threaded stud.Make sure not to hit the rubber boot or teat it.Car will need to have front wheels off the ground to reinstall. Take it off as one piece from outside tie rod one to the other outside tie rod end. Do NOT loosen adjustment sleeves.

When putting back together,always go to next tighter spot before putting cotter key through casleated nut.Alignment will not change if you done turn any sleeves
thanks i just might have to do that if there is no other way i hope someone has a trick or tip to do it without coming to that
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:47 PM
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Im Sure I had to pull the oil pump and drop it in the pan sump to slide the pan out on the last one I did in the field! ( service call) and put the pump in the pan and slide the pan under and installl the pump before bolting the pan in its final position! I cant remember for sure! But its easier and error free if you can pull the engine! Some one may have mentioned this already!

Jester
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:58 PM
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Im Sure I had to pull the oil pump and drop it in the pan sump to slide the pan out on the last one I did in the field! ( service call) and put the pump in the pan and slide the pan under and installl the pump before bolting the pan in its final position! I cant remember for sure! But its easier and error free if you can pull the engine! Some one may have mentioned this already!

Jester
thats very helpful and tonight i was looking at the pump and thinking to myself it might be more easy to take it off and drop it in thanks man
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:20 PM
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Your very welcome

If your pick up isn't welded to the pump it may move on you so make sure you put it in proper relationship with the bottom of the pan! I mark them with a scribe before dropping the pump

Jester
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:22 PM
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Your very welcome

If your pick up isn't welded to the pump it may move on you so make sure you put it in proper relationship with the bottom of the pan! I mark them with a scribe before dropping the pump

Jester
so i didnt say but the whole reason im doing this it to check the pickup and pump out because i tried to start the engine monday morning and it was really hard to start, then when it finally did start i had between 0 and 20 psi of oil pressure have you ever had to deal with that?
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:29 PM
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oil pan removal for a 69 nova ss

If you have the motor jacked up as far as it will go, you should be able to turn the crankshaft until the oil pan clears the front counterweights. Also look everything over to see if you can raise it any higher. Loosen radiator shroud, remove distributor if hitting on firewall.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
Im Sure I had to pull the oil pump and drop it in the pan sump to slide the pan out on the last one I did in the field! ( service call) and put the pump in the pan and slide the pan under and installl the pump before bolting the pan in its final position! I cant remember for sure! But its easier and error free if you can pull the engine! Some one may have mentioned this already!

Jester
how did you reinstall the pump when you put the pan back on?
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69novassguy View Post
so i didnt say but the whole reason im doing this it to check the pickup and pump out because i tried to start the engine monday morning and it was really hard to start, then when it finally did start i had between 0 and 20 psi of oil pressure have you ever had to deal with that?
You could have first used an oil pump primer tool to spin the pump. Also use a mechanical gauge hooked up to the engine to see if it agreed w/the gauge in the car.
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