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Old 01-13-2010, 03:35 PM
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1971 Buick Skylark 350-4
 
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oil pan removal for 79 chevy malibu wagon

what to do when i decided to replace gasket for oil pan and then realized that i have to lift the entire engine and remove tranny...

maybe just maybe theres an easy way to do this?! and in the process of removing exhaust pipes one of the threads that holds the exhaust pipe on the driver side broke.damit! there is two for each side that connects to the exhaust manifolds. am i in need of a new manifold or can that thread be replaced. it looks like to me. dam i thnk i screwed myself on this one. 305 eng. 200 trans.

thanks for the help!



one of those broke. guess they can be replaced.

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Old 01-13-2010, 03:54 PM
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That's a pretty common problem. Yes, you can replace the studs if you can get them out. May have to drill and retap threads if they're screwed. I've seen new manifolds on Ebay for $30-$35. You know where they're made.
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:28 PM
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Probably easier in the long run to pull the engine......By the time you pull the manifolds to fix the studs etc, you are 1/2 way there.....Plus, you can be more sure of getting that pan gasket on there right....Just my opinion
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:01 PM
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79 wagon pan gasket

I'd pull the engine and change the pan gasket and get a better and easier jog. While you got it out, pull the exhaust manifold. I'm sure if you're not confidence you can get the broken stud out yourself that a machine shop would remove it for less than $25.00 and you'd have the right manifold on the engine going back together. If you don't have a 3/8 thread chaser to clean up the other studs, you might have them chase them for you. On the other side, try some liq. wrench and move them a little each way until you've loosened ()them up. G.L.
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:24 PM
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I always well most of the time, If you have the know how and a torch put it in a vise and slowly heat around where the bolt screws down in the manifold and take some vise grips or the tool to extract with and turn it out. JMO
But if you have never done this before take it to someone that has depending on your abilities i guess.

Cole
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:32 PM
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thanks guys! im goin with pullin the engine out! wish me luck, gonna be the first time for me..with some help of course. any advice on what i should know or watch out for...besides what was mentioned here...distributor cap...take tranny down..of course small stuff like drive shaft..what else? thanks oh and BTW any common places to rent a engine hoist?
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Old 01-14-2010, 07:13 AM
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pulling the pan.

on some cars you can loosen the motor mounts. jack up the engine and put wood blocks under the mounts. turn the crank to a get throw clearance, drop the oil pump pickup into the pan and then slide it out. still a real hassel. we have drilled out broken exhaust studs a couple of times then used a longer bolt and nut. but if you have my luck the one that broke is in a spot where you can't drill a thru hole.
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
on some cars you can loosen the motor mounts. jack up the engine and put wood blocks under the mounts. turn the crank to a get throw clearance, drop the oil pump pickup into the pan and then slide it out. still a real hassel. we have drilled out broken exhaust studs a couple of times then used a longer bolt and nut. but if you have my luck the one that broke is in a spot where you can't drill a thru hole.
I've found that by the time you go through all this trouble, you're really on a few bellhousing bolts and a hoist away from pulling the motor. Of course, the problem with doing that is the MIGHTASWELLS...
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Old 01-29-2010, 06:54 PM
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so i rented the engine hoist and did removed the motor mounts but i realized that if i lifted the engine without removing the bellhousing i might be able to get those few inches i needed for clearing the oil pan. so i did and everything went as planned, of course i removed all the necessary linkage and bolts for it to be possible. i have to admit it was a bit tuff to work under the car compared to removing the engine completely. i installed everything the way it was and started up the car and sounded fine but i noticed the carb was hissing, or atleast around the carb. i hate to say that i dont remember if it did that before and if its normal. Im 100% sure everything was ok before because i took it to the shop and they did what they had to do for it to pass the smog test, which it did as it should have. just worried i guess. thanks!
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiser626
i installed everything the way it was and started up the car and sounded fine but i noticed the carb was hissing, or atleast around the carb. i hate to say that i dont remember if it did that before and if its normal.
No doubt you are hearing a vacuum leak of some sort.

The line running to the modulator valve on the tranny as well as the distributor vacuum hose and the power brake booster all have "live" vacuum lines. Check them all to be sure nothing got disconnected from the vacuum ports at the carb or intake manifold fittings.

Also check for split/broken rubber or hard plastic lines or the rubber fittings at the ends of the lines, as well as any plugs that might be used to block off unused ports.

It should be an easy fix, just listen and look carefully.
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